I made some progress this week and replaced a leaking pinion seal.

(sorry for the bad pictures. forgot to bring my camera)










It's not to difficult to do. I found a (japanese?) mark on the driveshaft. Does anyone have any info on this? I'm googleing but without succes... I think i've seen it before on a Landcruiser 60 series.

Took out the dash today and sorted out what led's i want/need. The right side is completely dark...









I'm also working on an write-up on how to install diy roofrails... HOW TO here => DIY roof rails. This is how i did it.

Ok, I need some help here. Has anyone replaced the seal of the front T-case companion flange?

The pinion seal of the companion flange of the driveshaft to the FRONT wheels is leaking and need to be replaced. I wonder if you need to take out that transmission support beam-thing i marked in red?







I'm having a hard time reaching the bolts of the flange. Any hints some of you can give me?

Long time, no post. But the project in not dead!

Went to pick up some spare parts. €80 for front indicators (not in picture), rear window relay, steering wheel harness and a complete dash cluster.



I also installed a roof rack that i bought for €100.







That winch does come in handy when instlling the RTT.

Next up: ordering and installing new front brake discs/pads. The rear gets new brake shoes and cilinders.

Front and rear brakes where almost like new when i inspected them so i had time for some other stuff.

The rear window went up only when using the key. We had to open it with the console switch which was a real bummer... There are a TON of forum topics floating around on the internet but none of them worked for me. I spend the last two months figuring out what the problem was but no luck. Until last weekend



It was not a faulty relay
It was not the wiper safety
It was not a broken switch
It was not a bad motor

It was a cracked lock-switch



I have no picture of how i fixed it but i just soldered it back together. However, those metal pieces are really, really thin so i don't suspect the fix would last long. I'm planning on installing a new one in the near future. But now i can operate the rear window again with the key!

Another thing i did was a bit more fun. I installed my 'given-to-me-because-it-doesn't-work-anymore' light bar. It was a 1 meter wide light bar but only half of the leds worked so i just cut it in half and put it back together.



Home-made brackets...


Ground contact.




It's subtIe and i like it this way.

And last but not least, i made a very simple truck bed with drawers.









I want to install a 12v usb charger in the back but i haven't figured out where to put it...

Ok, 6 months have passed and i'm back with e small update.

The most important thing i've done was installing new front discs and bearings.













And then this happend...







This was done WITH a torque-wrench @ 31Nm so it's either a bad bolt or trorqued wrong by PO. Anyway, this one is fixed but i'm planning on chaging all of them just to be safe.

With the front discs removed i also replaced the front shocks and of course new brake pads which was a simple job.



Monroe Adventure if anyone is interested. Nothing fancy.



And because i was into brakes the rear drum's (+ pumps & springs) where replaced too.





USB-charger installed between the front seats. It's a decent one with 4.2 amp. Passengers can charge their devices now





And finally a rust-job:







Both sides are done. Not by myself so i spend some €€€€ here. But now i have a rust-free 4runner!!

Coming up: dual battery, engine pre-heater, engine tune-up, and hopefully a rear bumper with swing out.

Like i said, this project isn't dead ;)

I need some advice. We replaced the fuel filter yesterday and pumped fuel back in with the built-in hand-pump on top of the filter. Here's a list of what happend next:

• The engine started normal.
• Lost power after 2min drive and stalled. (No warning lights on de the dash)
• Difficult start with lots of white smoke.
• Run well for next 2min
• Lost power again.
• Shut down engine my self.
• Checked the fuel filter and it was dripping diesel.
• I tightend the water nipple and the dripping stopped.

It runs fine now but sometimes the idle speed drops well below the normal 700 - 800rpm's.

I'm afraid there is some air trapped in the fuel lines or something. Another cause can be dirt in the fuel tank. It also happend when the tank was fairly empty btw.

So, how do i troubleshoot this? Any help is welcome.

Update.

I noticed there is a little breather hole at the top there where the fuel cap is. So i opened the fuel cap and started the engine a few times. It got better and better every start. So i guess there was some air trapped after all.

We're off to Italy again between christmas and new-year. Winter tires are mandatory there so i bought new tires and cleaned up the 15" rims that originaly came with our 4runner. We're crossing the alpes via Switserland and i know we will get checked at the border. (every year the same story) So i picked the largest legal-size tires i could get.







I never drove a 4runner in the snow before

Installed some rear back-up/work lights today.





They come on when i shift in reverse or i can switch them on anytime i want.

But how do i route the wires through the roof?

Dual battery and pre-heater are also installed. More on that later.

Ah, rims are painted as well... I'm waiting for my rear bumper to be installed before i put them on.

Thanks for keeping this thread going. Just picked up a ‘92 and I’m going to start at the beginning and do a few of these updates. Great job

No problem! Not everything is posted here and i have a ton of other pictures but i can't upload them all.

I'm working on a how-to for extra back-up led's and will post it here in detail as soon as i get my parts delivered...

Ok, i wanted to post an how-to on how to install extra back-up light but i lost quit a few pictures. I'm not in the mood of taking everything apart just to take pictures again so here's what i have.

The goal was to install some extra back-up lights so i can actualy see something when backing up in the dark. Parking space in europe is quit narrow...
Then i thought 'why not use them as work/camping light also'.

So, i needed the LED's the go on automaticaly when put in reverse AND go on manually without the engine running.

I'm not an experienced electrician but i managed to make my own (very simple) wiring diagram:



So we need to splice the original wire from the original back-up light to power the relais. I did it all the way from the back.





The color-scheme here is red/blue. Yours can be different. Use a multimeter! I spliced the wire behind the panel on the inside.

The wire is routed to the front under the carpet.


(getting crowded under there...)

Before you proceed, it's a good idea to test that wiring diagram. So i frankensteined it all together and verified that it worked.



I have a secondary battery so i tapped the 12v supply from it's fusebox.



Everything is fitted under the dashboard on the drivers side. (NOT the fusebox, it's best to place fuses as close to the battery as possible)

I had to figure out a way to get the 12v supply wire to the roof. And i don't want to drill another hole in it. A popular solution is to route the wire behind the rubber door seal and that's what i did.



Into my retro roof rack...



And out again to a splice-box.



For the switch i used 4-position switch. 0, 1, 2, 3.

0: open
1: open (not connected, reserve)
2: ON when in reverse
3: ON manually



Note: I used 1,5mm² wire because the LED's are 36W only. That's 3A so 1,5mm² is enough. Again, your's may need to be thicker depending on what you're hooking up.

That's it, now i just have to wait and see for the first time when i need them





And gave my cell phone car mount an upgrade...



Cheers.

Got the second battery installed some time ago but never posted pics, so here they go...


75Ah and 650 CCA so when my main battery is dead, i can still use this second one to start the engine. I'm searching for a decent battery box.


Battery combiner installed.


Wiring.


The idea came up last summer when we were camping and had no cold ru.., uhm i mean, milk... Now our (small) fridge can last 36 hours before the battery is out of juice.

Working on a diy center console.















I'm not yet sure what i want exactly but cupholders and cooling compartment are on the list. More ideas are welcome.

Nice work and nice truck! Might consider putting a rubber boot over your positive battery terminal. I've had a clamp come loose and short pos to ground before, fried my battery and almost started a fire. Wouldn't want to burn up all your hard work.

You may also want to get something behind that rust area or it will continue to spread under the paint. Bondo is hygroscopic so it's best to put fiberglass down first and bondo over, if possible. Also check behind the bumper on you rear quarters if you haven't, that's usually the first area to rust but impossible to spot without pulling the bumper corners.

Here's my writeup on a permanent rustproofing solution - Ultimate oil undercoating guide (DIY Waxoyl) but any non-solidifying oil will work well enough for most of a winter. Would def recommend drilling into the body and fogging the area behind that rust with something, then grease the hole and insert a body plug. Someone mentioned POR15, that will put off rust repair but is not a long term solution and has been known to cause more issues than it solved.