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Old 05-24-2020, 03:23 PM #106
Arild Arild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtvt View Post
Nice work and nice truck! Might consider putting a rubber boot over your positive battery terminal.
Yes, it's true. It's one of those simple but important things i have to do. Like many other small stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtvt View Post
Also check behind the bumper on you rear quarters if you haven't, that's usually the first area to rust but impossible to spot without pulling the bumper corners.
Check




*i have to do something about that exhaust-pipe...


That is the last rust-spot on the entire vehicle.
The rear bumper was removed 7 weeks ago because i wanted to install one with a swignout arm but then some virus happend... I'm driving without a bumper ever since... If all goes well, i get the new bumper next week. (fingers crossed)

We (a few friends and i) actually just use WD40 and spray the entire underbody with it twice a year. Just before and after the winter. And we use alot of it. We literally take a shower of WD40 while standing under the car wearing dust-masks. Our government-officials at car-centra don't like permanent undercoutings because they can't see what's underneath. And i don't like it either because they start hammering your chassis all over the place









The inside of the rear fenders can be reached by removing the small cargo-panel/box. I modified them so i can take them out without removing the entire sidepanels.

I read your post and i'm now converting it to the metric system The inside of the doorpanels is something i'm also afraid of. There are two small draining holes at the bottom that i use to apply WD40 but i feel i might use something more permanent there.
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:: '92 4runner 2L-T :: even slower then your 3.slow ::

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Old 05-30-2020, 03:55 PM #107
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Coolbox is sort of finished...





We tested it @ 25°C outside temp (inside was hotter) and it was cold but not as cold out dometic compressor-fridge. But that's ok.

Now i need to connect the wires as i'm not using the cigarette plug. This will be wired to a switch and the secondary battery.

And because of this new middle console the USB charger has to be relocated so i still have some little work to do.
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:14 PM #108
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I know it has been a few years but I recently purchased the same truck. Mine is 89 right hand drive from Japan and only 99k km on the clock. I'd love to pick your brain a bit. I have two other 3rd gens , a 99 and a 98 both with 6 cylinder gas engine.
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Old 06-10-2020, 10:20 AM #109
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Your '89 is also a 2LT diesel?
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Old 07-09-2020, 01:54 PM #110
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Not much has happend lately. The rear bumper is half done. The swingout arm itself is not ready yet. But we're on a roadtrip through France now so it will have to wait until august.

The new middle console does it's job.
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Old 07-23-2020, 10:54 AM #111
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We're on our way back from holiday. Started this morning in Italy. Just when we crossed the French border the air intake duct/hose cracked. Not a mayor problem but we still got 500km to go. Alot of dirty air will be sucked in.
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Old 07-24-2020, 01:07 PM #112
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Excellent work.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:36 AM #113
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Ok, the air duct may be cracked but with it we got a noticable difference in power. Well, it's not that he gained 10hp or so but there is definitely a 'smoother' ride when going uphill for example. Also less black smoke when pulling op a little harder then normal. The sound on the other hand is more like riding a tractor...

This is logical because the engine just gets more air but i didn't expect it to be so noticable.

So, i'm going to try and open airfilter and see how it compares. A new air intake hose costs about €50 +transport which is too much because it will crack again within 2 years so i'm not gonna bother...
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Old 07-29-2020, 01:08 PM #114
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this is a wonderful thread! I am brand new to the T4R world, but I am about to possibly make the purchase on a 1991 Toyota Hilux Surf that was imported from Japan with a right hand side drive. still contemplating the amount of work I will need to do on it (without much experience) but it is just such a sweet looking car and asking price is $8000 USD with only 134,500 miles (2164567 km) on it.

thank you for posting all these pictures and how you resolved your problems, it definitely gives me lots of inspiration!
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Old 08-03-2020, 02:45 PM #115
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Thank you. Are you looking for a diesel or pertrol engine? (Denver USA or UK?) I don't know about the 3VZE but i can tell you that the 2LT (without the 'E') is a very reliable engine. It comes very close to the 22RE However, it's slow. The 3VZE has more power.

Speaking of power. I installed an open air filter today. Definitely +50 horse power!

No, that would be to easy. But the engine revs more easy and smoother then before. I did e little test drive and the difference is noticeable.

But, there is also a downside. She may get more air but the air itself is also less cleaner. I don't know how or if this will have any affect on the engine. What i do know is to inspect the airfilter on a monthly basis and possibly change it more often.

Another problem is the PCV system (not much of a 'system' with this engine ). Normally a return hose is connected from the crankcase to the air intake system in order to re-burn toxic gasses. I still have to tap a new connector to connect that hose. For now it just ventilates into open air. This must be fixed very soon as i do care a little about the environment and i won't pass road-regulations.

Picture time:

Catch-can cleaned after 3000km holiday trip.







And the new 'tuning' air filter.







In the meantime... I'm still waiting for my new rear bumper. It is scheduled for the end of this month. Fingers crossed!
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Old 08-22-2020, 11:47 AM #116
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Well, i had to go to annual car control last week and the 4runner didn't pass. I got a 'red card' as we call it here in Belgium. the car didn't pass because of three things:
  1. suspension check: difference between left and right is to high - bad shocks
  2. steering: play on outer tie rod - bad left tie rod
  3. mud flaps: no mud flaps/splash guards installed
  1. this surprises me because the shocks were replaced at 306.802km on the 4 october, 2019. They have only 10.000km on them.
  2. nothing wrong here. This is normal wear. Afaik these are the original ones.
  3. the new bumper is still not finished so i installed temporary mud flaps.

So i ordered some parts:



Mudflaps are already installed:









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Old 08-23-2020, 10:30 PM #117
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Nice build
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Old 08-24-2020, 03:15 PM #118
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Thanks. I started replacing the outer tie rods. The first one wasn't very cooperative...

Just some basic tools needed to remove the outer tie rod:



The boot was still intact but got smashed during the process:





My initial plan was to replace all the tie rods but there is a saying: 'don't fix it if it isn't broken'.
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Old 08-27-2020, 02:30 PM #119
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So, second visit to annual car control. (how do you name this in english?)

Tie rods and mudflaps were ok but suspension was still a problem. 3 officials gathered around and under my vehicle.

One of them approached me and said: "your springs are missing...".







Seriously. I, myself, had to explain that a 4runner uses torsionbars instead of springs. I was flabbergasted! (love that word)
Anyway, i still did not pass the test so i have to go back for a 3 visit so i lowered the torsionbars and deflated the tires to 2.0bar (29psi).







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Old 10-28-2020, 02:37 PM #120
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Turned out one of the front shocks was bad so i replaced them both. But i couldn't torque them down all the way because the thread was too short. We (a local mechanic and i) verified the MPN which was correct so we didn't order the wrong product. This likely was a production error or something.



Anyway. We made the thread longer and all was good.

Some other things i fixed:

Faulty speaker wire. Pinched between rear panel and body.



Replaced some more vital parts:

Timing belt, idler pulley, idler gear pulley, tensioner and waterpump. There was some minor rust on the inside of the waterpump but nothing sandpaper couldn't solve. The cooling fluid was also in good condition so no worries there.











Bolts from tensioner had a little surface rust.






Last 3 weeks the 4runnes had cold start problems. I had to let the engine turn 6 to 8 times before he started. With lots of white/grey smoke as a result. So i checked the glow plugs by removing them from the block to test them with a seperate 12v battery. All of them worked so the problem was elsewhere.

The 80amp fuse was also good but after testing we measured 0.0v on the supply rail. The problem was a melted isolation washer between the rail and engine block.





Starts within a second now. So before removing the air duct and 4 glowplugs, be sure to check voltage before and after the rail.
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