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Old 06-03-2018, 07:13 AM #1
Arild Arild is offline
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1992 T4R 2LT slow build

Hi from Belgium!

First of all, i'm a noob. This is my first car build ever and i have very little experience. Second, English is not my native language so please go easy on me
We own a small Suzuki Grand Vitara which served us very well (and still will be) but we needed a bigger car because we're expecting. My first idea was to buy a TLC HJ61 but they are 5 times the price of a T4R and an endless war against rust. This was 6 months ago. The search continued until i stumbled across this forum. I was sold and started online screening for decent 4runner's for sale. In Belgium there were only 2 of them and rusted like hell. So i needed to expand my search area and found something in Italy.

That being said, this is what i bought:








It's a 1992 gen 2 T4R with the infamous 2LT engine and has 275.434 KM on the odo. Imported from Italy so very little rust.



















To do (in order of importance):

Basic maintenence: fluids, belts and stuff
Engine cooling: got a leak, need new hoses (and maybe radiator)
Transmission: sometimes he jumps out of 1st gear
Wiring: the PO istalled an alarm system but it doesn't work. I found some messy cable management.
Tailgate window: will go up with key but not down (already found a ton of info online)
New rim's / tires: not sure what size/type.
Roof rack: but there are no pre drilled holes or rails...
Rear bumper: i want a rear bumper with swingout arm for spare tire and bike rack.

That's about it for now. I hope you pro's can guide me a bit. This is going to be and interesting learning process. This will also be a slow build but i will do my best in updating this thread.

Arild out.

Last edited by Arild; 07-17-2018 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:17 AM #2
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My power windows stopped working last week so i started googling and borrowed a multimeter from a friend. (nope, still haven't got my own) Someone at lcc.net suggested looking for broken wires in the drivers side front door.

He was spot on:



Fixing those brought the power lock back too. But i found some sloppy wiring from the PO:





But that leaves me with a broken tailgate window. This is the situation:

Goes UP and DOWN with button
Goes UP only with key

I'm going to measure the voltage today and see if i can get any answers. I found a ton of info online about fixing a broken tailgate window but none of them helped so far. I still have a lot of reading to do...

Tomorrow i will visit a local 'toyota 4x4 only' garage/shop for parts and info. It's the first trip for me and my 4runner so fingers crossed.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:58 AM #3
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Nice rig!

First thing I would do is kill that rust and seal it up good. POR 15 products have been my go-to for years and is amazing stuff... think zinc.

I'm not a very experienced T4R owner but played elsewhere. 'Noob, junior', etc are all bullshittery laden terms folks made up to let us think we can finally become someone on this and other sites.

You have already found things many would struggle with.

Well done. But kill that rust.
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Old 06-06-2018, 02:40 PM #4
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A rust-treatment is indeed one of the things i must do first. Now that the chassis is still in good schape... Good to let me know!

I have a question about the rims. I don't think these are the factory original toyota rims. Should i keep them or not? I know this is a personal staste but i'm thinking about either painting these black (powder coating) or buying new 8 spoke black rims.

The rims are not on top of the list but i need new tires anyway so i might buy/paint rims at the same time...



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Old 06-08-2018, 12:06 AM #5
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The top pick shows the rims that I have on a stock '89. Rigs in Europe are a bit different. I do not know a lot about the turbo diesel but would take one in a heart beat. I bet a lot of the issues come from folks who are not familiar with driving a small (or large) diesel.

I know I'm harping at this point but in reviewing those pics it will take major effort to mediate that rust... all but frame-off exposure. I'm sure your climate will exacerbate the issue quickly. Even just spraying on some zink oxide throughout and letting it dry on will interrupt the chemical/electrical process (oxidation) until you can better get to it.

I'm excited for you...for me as well. We are both embarking on the 4runner adventure.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attach...1&d=1528430414
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1992 T4R 2LT slow build-img_1206-jpg 
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:20 PM #6
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Ok, it has been a while but i'm back with new questions

I'm planning to replace the hoses of the cooling circuit. These are rated up to 130°C.





I still need to buy the 2 main radiator hoses.

So i disconnected them and found this...







How bad is this and what can i do about it? Do i just cut off the ugly part or do i grind off the rust and clean it?
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Old 06-27-2018, 02:14 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arild View Post
...
How bad is this and what can i do about it? Do i just cut off the ugly part or do i grind off the rust and clean it?
You may be able to get by by just cleaning the accessible corrosion off with a brass / steel brush. Then a thorough radiator flush. Here in the U.S. we have the Prestone Radiator Flush. (https://prestone.com/products?detail=AS105Y)

Follow instructions for radiator flushing
During drain and rinse phases make sure you run the rinse water (from garden hose) both forward and backward (based on water pump direction) through the system to flush out loose solid debris.
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:30 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
You may be able to get by by just cleaning the accessible corrosion off with a brass / steel brush.
Good idea. I can use a Dremel with small steel brushes. I know what to do this weekend...
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Old 06-28-2018, 02:59 PM #9
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More info...
By running rinse water through A or B hose with the heater control valve completely open, and plugging the appropriate openings, you will be be able to run the rinse water backward through heater core and radiator to more thoroughly flush loose debris.
Do it such that rinse water runs from bottom of radiator, up and out through the filler opening.

I'm not quite sure which direction the coolant runs through the heater core during normal operation, so I would introduce rinse water in both directions; through A hose into firewall, then through B hose into firewall

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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-28-2018 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 06-29-2018, 12:59 PM #10
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[QUOTE=RAD4Runner;3016129]I'm not quite sure which direction the coolant runs through the heater core during normal operation, so I would introduce rinse water in both directions; through A hose into firewall, then through B hose into firewall

I will try to figure that out and let you know.

I was also thinking of letting the engine run hot for about 20min and repeating the proces a few times.

Last edited by Arild; 06-30-2018 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:44 PM #11
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Quote:
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...I will try to figure that out and let you know.
I was also thinking of letting the engine run hot for about 20min and repeating the proces a few time.
Thanks!
Yes, in fact the popular Prestone flush solution's "heavy-duty flush" which I did means driving with the flushing solution many miles for many hours before draining and rinsing.
Great excuse for a 2-day road-trip




For drain and rinse, I also run water through the system for a few minutes with engine hot = thermostat open, let it cool, backflush again with garden hose. Repeat. I admit I like overkill when it comes to cooling system because the common issue with all our vehicles had been with the cooling system.
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:53 AM #12
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Quote:
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I admit I like overkill when it comes to cooling system because the common issue with all our vehicles had been with the cooling system.
Especially with the 2LT diesel! High rev diesel = need good cooling.
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:44 PM #13
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Old 06-30-2018, 04:57 PM #14
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Well, i did some more dismantling today and i'm not happy. I let the pictures do the talking...

This is how my coolant looks like btw:



And these are the tubes:











Soaked them in some degreaser product for half an hour:



After brushing and grinding:







So it's clean. But i'm worried about the condition of the pipes. I'm trying to find a way to replicate them in some way.

I'm also concerned about the condition of the circuit of the engine-block itself.
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:25 PM #15
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I've had pipes like that in the past. One trick I used was clamp behind a corroded section- the pressure will stress the clamp hose and pipe section. obviously it will leak if clamped at that "V" at the end, but if you have enough solid section behind, it should be fine. You might want to use as broad a clamp as possible. Bring mindful of the clamp position, it has dome the job on cars I've had.


Another alternative might be to use some thin sheet metal and form it in an overlapping manner around the depressed area where it clamps.
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