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Old 09-23-2018, 09:17 PM #16
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Thanks guys for the info on the front locker. So the way I have it setup right now would be good for inclimate weather street driving which is one way we want to use the Runner, though it doesn’t happen often here in this part of Oregon, but if we were going to do any serious wheeling or crawling a front locker would be the ticket. Same goes for the rear then too...right? With the rear end spooled as it is now if we were driving on street in snow/ice it would try to plow straight ahead, yes?

As a related aside is there such a thing as a manual locker (vs air or electronic) to save money? I don’t mind hoppin our to switch stuff...

@Dropzone thanks for the feedback on the loose ring and pinion sets. I do have the Runner sitting up on jack stands in the front right now and I did the exercise again where I turn a wheel one time around and count the number of times the driveshaft spins and it is only 2.75 times.
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:55 PM #17
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Yep, that's why I have always felt the method was pretty subjective. I have never had luck with it and others swear by it.
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Old 09-26-2018, 02:55 PM #18
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Well it was bugging me why I was getting inconsistent or unexpected results trying to determine my final drive ratio by turning a wheel and counting the driveshaft rotations...then I realized I should be hand-turning the driveshaft and counting number of rotations needed to turn the wheels one time around. Is there a standard ring a pinion ratio between 4.75 and 5.00?

And another comment on my janky front driveshaft...the driveshaft is only mounted to the pinion with two bolts...only two of the four holes on that jury-rigged thing line up so that’s all my wife’s ex installed. There’s a bit of work to do there.

And a self correction...in the first post I said there were Warn manual hubs up front...not sure why I thought that...they are the factory Aisin hubs that were probably original to the second-hand axle that was purchased for the SAS swap.
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Old 09-26-2018, 03:26 PM #19
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You can always get some triple drilled flanges for the transfer case and front pinion.
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Old 09-26-2018, 08:13 PM #20
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I saw something like that online today. So yeah...then it’s just a matter of removing the pinion nuts, pulling the existing flanges, and then installing the adapter flanges, right?
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:37 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbeats View Post
I saw something like that online today. So yeah...then it’s just a matter of removing the pinion nuts, pulling the existing flanges, and then installing the adapter flanges, right?
make sure you count the turns when you remove the pinion nuts
you could affect your gear set up if I recall correctly
might check out gearinstalls.com
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:01 PM #22
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DRIVE LINE FLANGE TRIPLE DRILLED KIT T-CASE - Trail Gear

As for the install, its more of torquing it down to proper spec to get it to set right again. You don't want to crush the crush sleeve anymore then it already is, that is IF the gears are currently set up right.
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Old 01-08-2020, 03:51 PM #23
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How’s it coming? Saw your comment on my thread. I’m back on the forums now!


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