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Old 10-08-2019, 11:46 AM #31
warrpath4x4 warrpath4x4 is offline
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My new(ish) lower intake will be here this week so Saturday I went out and started tearing that side apart, when I was removing the injectors I made sure to twist them so they were free moving and there was no resistance in them. I pulled the rail and they all came out of the intake easily, but number 2 came out like this. surprisingly it wasn't leaking.





My new 4 hole injectors showed up yesterday, glad I had already planned on replacing them. My pink injectors lol





One issue i have ran into is the wiring harness runs right through the middle of the lower intake, how did they expect it to be removed?

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Old 10-10-2019, 10:58 AM #32
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I would like to kick a Toyota engineer in the nuts that thought this up. lets run a 13 wire harness through the middle of the intake manifold so it cant be removed with stripping 8 feet of harness out. well i am gonna cut the manifold between these 2 bolt holes.



The "easy" way to change the fuel filter, I am moving it to the wheel well like i did in the Frankenstein 1st gen

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Old 10-23-2019, 12:27 PM #33
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I figured since i had the intake off it was a good time to install a block heater and change and move the fuel filter to the inner fender. Its almost all back together, just need to put a couple hoses on and fill it with coolant and it will be running again. I removed the front bumper so i can install the winch mount.



first time in a year the grill has been back on

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Old 10-28-2019, 01:42 PM #34
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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!



Yesterday I was able to get the new-new injectors put it, the pink ones I ordered would not fit even though the ad said they would. So I ordered a different set, 4 hole, and these ones went right in. got the rest of the intake put back together, block heater installed, filled with coolant, pitman arm installed, oil changed. It fires right up, drove it around the driveway, BUT the idle is drastically jumping from 1500-2000 RPM, while sitting I give it throttle and it just bogs down and will not build rpm's, unplug the TPS and the rpm's shoot up to redline. the other week when I had it running (and leaking coolant) the rpm's were fine and had throttle response but I realized I had not hooked the coolant lines up to the IACV, I am going to bypass the IAC again and see if it fixes the problem.



but it runs and fires right up each time I start it.
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:21 PM #35
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Bypassed the IAC last night, same issue. I need to test the TPS but that's not gonna happen until Wednesday at the earliest. Still fired right up though on the first crank.
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Old 11-04-2019, 12:15 PM #36
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I put about 15 minutes into this yesterday before it got dark at 2 lol. Makes a big difference when the TPS is installed right (i think i had the TPS tangs on the wrong side of the throttle lever tangs) and then get it adjusted correctly. Fired right up, smooth idle, throttle response is back, just a couple small things and it will be drivable. Then its will be done with the repair stage and move on to the accessories stage.
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Old 11-06-2019, 02:52 PM #37
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Yesterdays project was spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and timing.



No issue with changing parts but there is something off about the timing, it runs just fine but the timing mark on the damper is about the 8 o'clock range with the timing light on it. I noticed this when setting the TDC, I couldn't go off the timing mark and had to go off of the piston itself. Not sure if this damper is off a different year or if the pulley has moved on the damper or what.
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:14 PM #38
Rnc1592 Rnc1592 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrpath4x4 View Post
I put about 15 minutes into this yesterday before it got dark at 2 lol. Makes a big difference when the TPS is installed right (i think i had the TPS tangs on the wrong side of the throttle lever tangs) and then get it adjusted correctly. Fired right up, smooth idle, throttle response is back, just a couple small things and it will be drivable. Then its will be done with the repair stage and move on to the accessories stage.
Newbie here having similar idle issues with my truck. Planning on replacing the fuel injectors but was curious what a TPS is?
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:21 PM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rnc1592 View Post
Newbie here having similar idle issues with my truck. Planning on replacing the fuel injectors but was curious what a TPS is?
TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor, it is on the side of the throttle body.

(not my pic)


Here are directions to adjust it, i also recommend getting rid of the screws and going to allen head bolts. if i remember right they were M6x1.0

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:46 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrpath4x4 View Post
TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor, it is on the side of the throttle body.

(not my pic)


Here are directions to adjust it, i also recommend getting rid of the screws and going to allen head bolts. if i remember right they were M6x1.0

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechP...Adjustment.pdf
Thanks for the info and the tip on switching to allen head bolts! I'll check out that link
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:30 AM #41
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re-aligned my steering wheel to the steering box to the pitman arm yesterday, installed the new steering stabilizer and the idler arm and bracket. did some more timing adjustments and cleaned it out (started looking like a tool box).



Then drove it to town and filled it up with gas!! runs pretty good but i still need to do some more adjusting on the idle, when i come up to a stop it stumbles and wants to die but corrects itself.
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Old 11-25-2019, 11:52 AM #42
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one step closer to getting my ARB working, pulled the side panel off so i could remove the cubby. apparently my 4Runner is special because it has a cubby on the left and right side. I still need to install the air tank and finish wiring the compressor.



The black circle is the air inlet
​​​​​​​
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:15 PM #43
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Planning on taking it to Sunnyside this weekend for the lighted implement parade (not entering, just watching) to put some freeway miles on it.

parts have been trickling in to get the air tank installed and the ARB working, ordered up a winch with synthetic line, and picked up a nice kinetic recovery rope last night from tractor supply. 7/8" X 20' 24,700 lbs breaking strength Ditch Pig for $80. amazon and homedepot show them for $92 and NAPA wants $192
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Old 12-11-2019, 10:51 PM #44
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Very nice!
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:35 PM #45
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The steering felt really loose even after putting a new steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm and bracket. Yesterday i had the wife turn the steering wheel while i checked out the linkages. apparently when i hooked up the pitman arm, the steering was in a bind because it was super loose, i was able to pull the nut off by hand. She steers nice and tight now.
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