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Old 12-13-2018, 01:07 AM #1
xmindbender xmindbender is offline
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1989 4r v6 starter clicking

1st. I've done my due diligence and read threads from multiple sites and watched video. I guess even similar year models are different in fuse box design etc. Nothing on passenger or driver side of engine bay and nothing under drivers kick panel.

Common problem with intermittent start/nothing but a click scenario. V6 auto. have the kick panels off and can hear but not find relay on the passenger side... computer is out and about ready to take the glove compartment out but do not want to.

Plan has been to check the resistance between ignition and relay but not if I cannot find the thing. Wasted 3 hours searching etc and am no better off.


I have a plate in my neck and this work is pinching nerves etc but I am wanting to get a fix on it soon... its cold outside...

Its definitely not the same as the 22r or 84-88 or '91+ or manual tranny. any help to include pics would be appreciated. If I get it I will post pics and everything as no one has done that (that I have found) with an exact rig as mine.

thanks

Last edited by xmindbender; 12-13-2018 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 09:59 AM #2
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This "Click, no crank" issue is well known thing with 4runners and its most likely bad starter contacts and/or plunger. Yeah it could be wire or just battery connection. I had almost same issue on my 2L-T. When it was hot it did not cranck at all. Click, click, click then it maybe start cranking but very slowly. Did find broken connector from starter relay but what realy fix it was take out starter and change stater contats, plunger and all other stuff and clean insides where contacts sit. Now she cranks normaly all the time.
It took me like 1,5 hour of work but only like 20 min was work on starter itself, rest was just taking starter out and getting it back. BUT not sure how hard is to get to starter on your V6.
Maybe it ll be better to test starter before anything else. It should be possible get car in N then using wire connect +12 to starter terminal and see what ll happen. If click = starter bad, if cranks = problem in wiring or relay. On other hand, if starter itself click, that mean it is getting power to is magnetic contact so that part of circuit should be fine...
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Old 12-13-2018, 11:03 AM #3
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well IMO you will not find YOUR problem on the forums . YOU have to get the voltmeter out and check for voltage drops and wiring .

if a starter solenoid clicks sure can be a loss of volts to starter.

also battery do fail many ways . cells can have internal open ..

bring to auto store that does the load test . clean all battery connections . check starter connections etc.. 2 persons will be best ..
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:10 PM #4
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-19-2018 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:23 PM #5
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[QUOTE=RAD4Runner;3192593]Yes, he can find answers in this forum.
Yes, he would have to do his homework.

So no troubleshooting info on his vehicle not gonna help this guy .

need his vehicles electrical info on what's up.. then we can give him the info on what component caused this .
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:25 PM #6
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-19-2018 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:01 PM #7
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Jfc

Okay guys. First, thanks. I could have been more accurate and would have been had I been looking for diagnostic work. All of my domestic experience cried solenoid but I did a bit of reading.

Second, Rad, I did my homework including reading everything you have written on several sites... thus the concern over resistance in wiring. But your experience on the older 22r wasn't enough in this specific case. You are sure the auto has no relay? Its been reported that way and Could be... but the evidence (not great evidence I admit) is that there may be two. Some find them on either side of the engine bay and some under either kick panels where the solid-energetic 'click' comes from (passenger side). I was going to try to rewire a section from the ignition to the relay with 10 gauge... if it panned out resistance wise. Bottom line I do not know but I will figure it out.. At 110k in a rig that was driven twice a week max... doubt it is the starter/solenoid. Could be tho...may be the years more than use. I'll find out soon enough.

I wasn't asking for a fix or problem solving. What I was looking for was someone who has found the relay on this specific model (if it has one) so I can whip out the magic meter and get to work.

If there truly isn't one... ill refocus. It isn't the distributor or crank sensor or the 4 gauge as some have reported. Unfortunately I do not bend like I used to so was looking for a hand in locating the relay (or something making that click noise) which is apparently crammed up somewhere under the dash... if it is a real click that even matters in life. It is tied to the starting system.


Putting in an independent push interrupter under the hood for now so I will not be stranded at a trailhead or worse in the Tahoe area which is colder than chit. Childs play. I'll fix the rest when it warms up a bit.

all I gotta do now is pull the engine so I can get to the solenoid it does have a solenoid? hehe strange system.

Last edited by xmindbender; 12-13-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:00 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xmindbender View Post
all I gotta do now is pull the engine so I can get to the solenoid it does have a solenoid? hehe strange system.
Huh?? Why would you pull the engine to get to the starter motor? You can pull it from the passenger side wheel opening pretty easily. If you’re getting a “clunk” when you engage the ignition, a contact in the starter may be bad. They can wear unevenly and without them both making contact, the starter won’t turn.
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Old 12-14-2018, 09:58 AM #9
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again no troubleshooting info.. the magic meter is when a person is with knowledge , on how to use a voltmeter ..

if the person has no knowledge it is not a magic meter.

you do not check resistance with a starter problem .. clicking and no cranking.. so post what the battery volts are .. then when turning the key in the crank mode what is the magic voltmeter doing .

if you have no meter put headlights on turn key to crank position how does the headlights react ?

pulling the engine to remove starter never ever had that process required ..on any vehicle ..LOL..
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Old 12-14-2018, 01:55 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains View Post
pulling the engine to remove starter never ever had that process required ..on any vehicle ..LOL..
Actually on some Audi models, “Remove the engine.” Is step one of getting to the starter. Fortunately not on any that I’ve had.

Regardless, more info and test results are needed here.
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Old 12-14-2018, 02:27 PM #11
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never mind...
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-19-2018 at 04:55 AM.
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Old 12-14-2018, 02:39 PM #12
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-19-2018 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:44 PM #13
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Condescending much?

I guess you guys have issues with reading comprehension and sarcasm in general. Amazing.

catrains must be your pivot chick.


Last edited by xmindbender; 12-15-2018 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 01-20-2019, 02:18 PM #14
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I don't know if you got this issue fixed or not. If not the only info I can give is do the things that have been mentioned in the Fatal flaw wiring. might seem stupid or whatever. But trust me after putting in brand new battery brand new starter and brand new relays I still had the same issue. Chopped out the wiring and wired it direct like the his post and guess what issue has gone and never came back.
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