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Old 06-11-2019, 01:19 PM #16
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Ok, so the big weekend finally came this past weekend: paint the engine bay day! I've spent at least 3 or 4 weekends getting all the components off, organizing new vs. old parts for reassembly, cleaning the awful oil mess and undercoating off the paint and engine, etc. During that time, I was also cleaning and painting almost all the removed metal parts (brackets, etc) so that when it came time to reassemble, everything was clean and ready. I also had to rewrap a few of the wire bundles as they had become embedded with engine oil. So I used a combination of Tessa tape and some new plastic wire loom. I also tried this fiberglass heat shielded woven sleeve thing. However, it only worked for one set of wires (alternator power bundle) as you have to slide the whole thing into it, no slit like in the wire looms.





Here's an example of one of the parts I painted, more of an experiment. The MAF aluminum housing was pretty oxidized, and after wire wheeling it, it was super shiny. So I have this darker gray I've been using as an accent color for some of the brackets and brake lines. I decided to paint it and I think it came out great, definitely better than the oxidized and shiny cleaned up version. I realize it's not original, but frankly, it looked like ass no matter how I cleaned it.








On to the finale, engine bay painting. So I had used a wire wheel as much as I could to get the gunk off, then some 320 grit sandpaper on the harder to reach areas. Given the engine was still in, I realized that it would be a crapshoot on how things turned out behind the engine. But the areas I couldn't get to were not visible, and frankly, anything is better than a giant red engine bay when the rest of the 4Runner is factory 033 white. Then I used some wax/grease prep wipes, wrapped the engine in a sheet and duct tape, laid a towel over the transmission housing, and did some masking paper work for the frame areas. All the paint supplies I got from automotivetouchup.com, as they can mix aerosol cans of factory Toyota colors from ways back. I was able to get 3 cans of 033 white, 3 cans of primer and 3 cans of clear coat. They recommend 3 to 4 coats of primer, 3 to 4 coats of base, then 4 to 5 coats of clear. Between each coat of each layer, wait 10 to 15 minutes. After each all coats of a layer, 30 minute wait. I did this outside and it was a bit windy, so I definitely ended up with some issues in corners where it looks like dust particles and overspray got together and made a 3d sort of pattern. They say to sand it after the primer coat, but there was no way I had the time to sand, re-wash, wait for it to dry, re-mask the paper, etc. It wasn't in the visible areas, and I did try wet sanding one area/wiping it up with a wet rag. It did look better on subsequent coats, but it wasn't worth the effort at this point given the time suck this has been. Weather has been a problem but this past weekend gave me upper 70's with low humidity on Saturday and overcast to do the actual painting. Plus, rain wasn't in the forecast until late Sunday night, giving me 24 hours of time for it to dry properly with the hood off. Mind you, I've never painted anything of this magnitude before, so I was pretty nervous.

Here we go, all the wiring removed through the fender wells.





So here it sits right before I was about to put on the primer.





And this is after all the coats of primer had been applied.





Here is after all 4 base coats.





And finally, after 5 clear coats (did an extra as it will see abuse from fluids and such)








Now with the hood and fenders back on, finally some color continuity! I also painted the hood prop that same dark grey, and repainted the hood hinges/wire wheeled the bolts to remove caked on red paint and rust.





It may be a bit early for this comparison photo, as it will look better once the components are all back in. But nonetheless, this is from the day I picked it up back in late March. I'm ecstatic.





I still have to do some wet sanding with a 1500 or 2000 grit next weekend, but I'm not going to go crazy, just on the visible areas. Obviously there is some detritus in the clear from being outside on a windy day (and it's white which doesn't help conceal anything). But I'm super happy on how it turned out, and looking forward to finally getting this thing back together over the next few weekends.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:07 PM #17
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That'll look great!
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:24 AM #18
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This my new favorite 4Runner build. Your attention to detail is commendable. Nothing worse than people cobbling a bunch of crap together and then covering a decent body in Craptor liner and calling it done.

Nicely done pinemind!
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:34 PM #19
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Wow! looks great!
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:48 PM #20
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VERY nice work Pine!
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Old 06-24-2019, 09:05 PM #21
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My apologies for the lack of updates. 2 weekends ago after the crescendo of being done with painting and disassembly, I realized I neglected cleaning up all the hard brake and clutch lines. As with most of the items in the engine bay, they were covered in the impermeable oil/dirt/grease sludge. Given the size and shape of these, this proved a mutli-hour effort in order to prepare it for painting. Plus, I only had about 6 hours on Saturday given some other obligations, so that was all I accomplished aside from organizing a few last minute parts to start re-assembly the next weekend.

Fast forward to this past weekend, I started with hard to reach items along the firewall, and the passenger side, which was the reverse order of disassembly. While everything was still out, I installed a new OEM EGR Valve and associated hardware, gaskets. What's strange is, there was no gasket on the old EGR Valve when I took it off. I know it's attached to the intake-to-head gasket, but now I'm wondering if this could have been the source of my random mis-fire at warm idle. I also painted the top portion of the part that goes into the intake manifold. I've been using this dark gray for engine bracketry, and keep a semi-gloss for all other brackets that attach places other than the engine. Nice shiny new bolts and nuts too!





Not sure what the part is called, but it's part of the EGR system (little brown plastic disk) was next. Same deal with the bracket here, painted it dark gray with engine ceramic DupliColor paint. As I went along, I was also installing brand new black silicone vacuum lines I got from LCE.


[


Then I reattached the rear VSV, cleaned up with a wire wheel on the bracket, more new silicon vacuum lines.





Next up was the windshield wiper motor, and the rear portion of the charcoal canister bracket.





Fuel lines reattached for the charcoal canister on fender and soft tube to firewall. Attached front part of charcoal canister bracket.





Repainted charcoal canister, new soft fuel hose and clamps installed.





Rerouted the ECU harness back through the firewall and properly installed the grommted. It was covered in grey RTV so got rid of that nonsense. Also, you can see here the original grey tape and wire loom was removed. This part of the harness was in firing range of the oil leak from the front main seal, and was thus oozing oil whenever I tried to clean it. So I removed all the old grey tape/loom, cleaned the wires, and rewrapped with Tessa tape. Also attached the starter resistor thingy and painted bracket.





Painted brake/clutch lines were next and preassembled with the restored/painted brackets. Also a new OEM clutch hose preinstalled (turned out to be a mistake and should have done this afterwards, found out that on Sunday -> stupid hose clip was impossible to get aligned with the clutch line attached).





Installed the lines, being very careful especially with the curly-Q ends to not nail the engine bay paint.









And that was the end of Saturday. I'll gather my Sunday install pictures and post the rest up tomorrow or Wednesday. Mostly working my way along the firewall, and doing some random installs on the driver side (PS hp hose, steering shaft, speedometer/throttle/parking brake cables, clutch slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, ignition coil and igniter).
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Old 06-25-2019, 07:37 PM #22
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Last Sunday started with getting the clutch hose clipped into the firewall. With it already connected to the hard line, I couldn't get it to line up perfectly, even with bending the line a bit due to the tight tolerances for that c-clip to get in there. So I took it off and clipped it in first, then was able to reattach the hard line. Moved down to the slave cylinder install, no issues here. New tiny hard line there, connected up to the soft line, left the slave cylinder bolts loose which helped.





Next was the throttle cable. First non-OEM part I've installed outside of calipers/rotors as it was discontinued from Toyota. Picked one of the two from RockAuto and felt like I lost that coin flip. The front part is made of rubber and is 3 to 4 times as thick as the OEM one. So the bolts that go into the firewall were way too short. Luckily, I had picked up a metric bolt set and an M6 x 30mm fit the threads. Still strange the front part is rubber which means it just compresses and compresses until you feel it's tight enough. Also the metal piece that slips into the throttle linkage on the intake manifold is a lot smaller. Hoping it holds up to the pulls over time.








Next, the "whale" piece for the parking brake cable and clip were installed.








Speedometer cable plumbed back and installed into gauge cluster.





Skipped back over to the clutch system to finish that up with the new Aisin clutch master cylinder/gasket/nuts.





Sun was at a weird angle, but I first installed the painted power steering high pressure hose with the frame rail bracket. Since it was painted and low in the bay, I wanted to get this out of the way. Then I moved onto the intermediate steering shaft and coupler/shield.








New heater valve installed on the firewall. It was at this point I finally encountered my first set of missing parts I knew I bought (but way back in late April per my records): the white plastic brake booster valve and new metal firewall bracket. Wasted an hour going through bins upon bins but no go. So the firewall was 90% complete. Hopefully I can find those parts, otherwise I kept the originals that can serve for the time being. If it only happened for something as trivial as those parts, and this was the only time, I consider myself lucky.





Moved on to sanding a few spots on the fender well for the ferrite bracket to sit on. Then went and installed the coil and ignitor, reconnected some plugs.





Don't forget the rear block/engine hoist to firewall ground! And I can't remember, is that rear hoist bracket supposed to be crooked/angled towards the firewall? Definitely didn't fit straight up and down, but it was so long ago I have no idea.





Squeezed in one last item for the day, the low-pressure hose from steering box to cooler with new clamps. This gives a good view of this area I focused on for the latter portion of the day.





And here's how I left it on Sunday mid-afternoon. This was probably the most fun I've had on this project in the last 2 months, since it was just like putting adult Lego's together.





I'm still up in the air as to what to do next, but I think I'm going in this order for ease of install: steel lower radiator hose, power steering and alternator brackets, alternator, LCE header, fan clutch pulley, fan clutch, fan, radiator, power steering pump/reservoir/other hoses, power steering pump/pulley, belts, coolant/heater hoses, brake booster/MC, air box/intake, battery, headlights. Shit, that's a long list still ...
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Old 06-27-2019, 08:24 AM #23
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Looks really beautiful!
On that rear engine lift hook, it needs to be turned around so the hook part faces drivers side. I like the black hood hinges on white.
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Old 06-28-2019, 02:11 PM #24
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Outstanding, looks excellent!
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Old 07-01-2019, 06:25 PM #25
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Another weekend with 1 day of work, and unfortunately, it was on the hottest day of the year. Faced with 95+ temperatures and humidity severely limited the length of my work. But I've also got an extended 5 day holiday over the 4th of July where I'm 95% sure I'll at least be able to start it back up before I send it to the exhaust shop to complete the cat-back piece (and another issue I discovered, read below).

I started with the exhaust header, well, because I was super excited to get this thing in there. When I had my 1985 4Runner after college over 10 years ago, I always wanted to get one but never got around to it before I sold it. And also, it was logically a good idea given the amount of components still not installed on the driver's side of the engine bay. It's an LCE header and I also got new exhaust studs, plus the 4-wire heated O2 sensor, high flow cat, assorted flanges.


[


Header studs installed, to what I thought would be a good torque. LCE says 10 lb/ft but it did not seem like enough so I pushed a little past those clicks. Don't really understand how if the flange nuts have to be done at 32 lb/ft, a stud at 10 lb/ft is going to hold once you start cranking those nuts down. But Toyota doesn't actually give torque specs for those studs, so apparently it's a crapshoot. Forums didn't seem to have a consensus either.





After installing it, my worst fears were confirmed on 2 of the studs. The lower front-most and rear-most studs both wouldn't torque to 32 and kept spinning, pulling the stud slowly out of the block. I tried removing the header, and re-cranking those 2 studs, but after putting it back on, the nuts still wouldn't torque. So I need to helicoil it, chase it, or something. I may just leave it up to the exhaust shop once I'm finished starting it back up, as I need them to do the catback work anyway for new pipes. It's not like they pull right out, so for testing it, 6 out of 8 holding tight should get me by until then.








Next was the lower #5 (or #7 depending on who you ask) steel radiator pipe. No individual pictures as I was on the verge of passing out and just needed to get shit done. Then I started on the power steering/alternator bracketry. One thing I was concerned about was grounding for the alternator, seeing as I powder coated the front adjuster bracket. Lower one was still bare steel where the long bolt goes through. Also, where the eyelet ground from the alternator wire harness connects from the factory, to the upper power steering pump bracket, was also coated. So I decided to just skip all that, and screw that eyelet into the dipstick tube holder that goes right to the block. No idea why it doesn't go there from factory as I'm sure it's better right on the block. If anyone sees issues with that adjuster bracket being powder coated for grounding purposes, let me know. But I think the grounding is mainly handled by the small wire that bolts right to the alternator on top with the nut, then the ground extension from the harness completes the ground (the one I moved to the oil dipstick/block screw).


[





Upper power steering idler pulley bracket installed, completing the jigsaw puzzle.




Nice front view. Had all the bolts ceramic coated (except the alternator hold down bolt for fear of grounding issues).





Ferrite bracket installed.





Sky started to rumble, so I jammed in one of the silicone radiator hoses to connect the water pump and the lower steel radiator hose. The clamps that came with them are pure garbage, I miss the spring ones (never thought I'd say that).





And here's where I stood right before the skies opened up and I was burnt to a crisp. Also reinstalled the firewall grommets (A/C lines, heater lines) that I cleaned up and protected with some Car Guys plastic/vinyl/rubber restorer (great product, use it everywhere).





Next steps are getting the power steering pump, hoses, reservoir, idler pulley, main pulley, fan clutch pulley, belts all in. Then I'll move to finish up the hydraulic systems (brake and clutch) just to get that all out of the way. Then it's radiator and remaining few hoses. Air intake components and battery will round it out before I start it up again.
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:00 PM #26
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It's ALIVE!!

Made a lot of progress over the extended holiday weekend, although the weather was unbearable and stormy, so I lost about a day's worth of work over the 3 days I worked on it. First I started with getting the power steering pump installed and hoses connected. Then all of the pulleys and fan clutch attached so I could get the belts torqued up.














New non-yellow fan installed:





New radiator and cap:





Brake booster and Aisin master cylinder





Shroud (and new lower shroud) installed:





New silicone radiator and heater hoses all around:





Brake booster vacuum hoses and valve:





Next was the air box and AFM, intake hoses, clamps (one new intake elbow, other was discontinued but checked for cracks and holes):








Soldered, plumbed, fuse tapped and grounded all the wiring for the 4-wire heated Denso O2 sensor. Hacked back the connector pipe a bit. I didn't install the cat yet as I'm just going to have the shop that fabs up the rear of the exhaust to finish it off. Note, I tapped off the cigarette lighter 15 amp fuse in the driver's side kick panel, using a 5 amp fuse for the heated sensor. It was the only non-critical ignition switched fuse. I ran the wires back through the hood release grommet (heater wire and ground).





And here it with all the main components installed for starting up. I went ahead and bled the brakes and clutch systems using a Motive power bleeder. Triple checked all my electrical connections and grounds.





I had to wait until the next day to attempt to start it, since it was crazy stormy and I wanted to be able to watch the coolant, temp gauge, check the new oil pump for leaks, etc. Of course, drumroll, it didn't start. It was cranking over but wouldn't go, almost like I had removed the EFI fuse (which I do as a poor-man's kill switch anyway). I went to the FSM and started following the troubleshooting steps. Using a timing light, I was able to see that there was no spark at the spark plugs. Further testing by removing a plug wire, holding it to a ground and looking for an arc. Nothing.

Baffled as I was very thorough in most of this work, main reason it took 2 months. However, I also remembered the holy grail of early Toyota issues: grounds. Realizing I didn't touch anything with the fuel delivery system, I started looking at the coil/ignitor. I had painted almost every bracket that used to be bare/zinc coated metal in the bay. And for 99% of them, I used a Dremel to grind off the paint so the screws to the fender wells would have clean metal. But I forgot the most important one: the coil/ignitor bracket. I used a multimeter and did the FSM voltage test from positive and negative coil to the screw on the ignitor, and I was getting < 1 volt. Moving the lead to a body screw, I was getting 12 volts.

So I took off the coil bracket, ground off all the paint on the underside, and also on the top two places where the ignitor screws into the bracket. Cranked it all back down, and voila! She starts!!!

I used a no-spill funnel to burp the radiator/cooling system as it came up to temperature. The heat was on full blast to move everything through. No crazy sounds from the belts, so I luckily got the alternator jacked back enough to get proper tension. Watched the oil pump where the main oil leak was from and no leaks. Pulled the throttle a bit to speed up operating temperature, then went to work on purging/filling the power steering system. This took a while, and a lot of wheel turning with some horrific groans, I thought I broke the damn thing. But eventually, I had it filled and quiet. No warning lights on the dash, temperature never got above 1/3 and NO OVERSHOOTS!! I replaced the thermostat with the dual stage as the original was always giving me anxiety with it reaching the red and shooting back down every 5 minutes unless the heat was on ... no fun in the summer.

However, I'm still very puzzled and a bit upset that my random warm idle misfire/stumble is still present. I'm going to start a separate thread on this because even though I've read every thread on the Toyota forums on this subject, I still have no idea where to go next. I replaced all the vacuum lines, replaced the EGR valve with a new OEM one/gaskets on both ends, new throttle body gasket, plugs/wires/cap/rotor OEM before teardown, grounds are perfect, and TPS looks good but I'll probably check that again. Timing is good at 5/12. I think that just leaves with me with fuel related issues. I highly doubt the OEM EGR valve is defective, but I was thinking of blocking it off at the intake side for a test. Could be a good time for a new set of injectors regardless. But I really want to avoid doing a fuel pump, filter etc if I don't have to. Any suggestions here would be very welcome as after 2 months, all I want to do is drive this thing!

So this week I'll be calling a few shops to get my exhaust finished up. It's basically an open LCE header that dumps after the connector pipe right at the driver's door. My test drive was very short and extremely loud, poor neighbors. But clutch and brake systems are good.

Again, any thoughts on the warm idle stumble/miss after all I've checked and replaced would be welcome!
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:26 PM #27
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Incredible job!!!
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:34 PM #28
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Hi everyone, sorry for the long gap in between posts. But it's been mostly because I've been having so much fun actually driving this thing around now that it's out of it's 3 month cocoon. I took it to an exhaust shop the Monday after it started up and I checked for leaks and did a short test drive. I got a Magnaflow muffler and mandrel bent 2.25" piping installed for a reasonable price. It's still a bit buzzy for my tastes as the exhaust guy recommended Magnaflow for the quietest 4-cylinder with a header. I still thinkg the Flowmaster Delta 50 or 60 would have been better, perhaps I need to revisit a resonator in the near future. I will reevaluate once I have the soundproofing and carpet in (still bare metal floors and panels), but with the windows down at near-WOT, it's pretty buzzy. No pictures of it yet, I'll have to grab some this weekend.

So the weekend I got it back, it started a blazing hot 2 weeks of 90+ heat and humidity in the Northeast. But I think I spent 4+ hours each day that first weekend just driving. Was able to get it washed which was nice. And the only issue after all that disassembly/reassembly, was a slight leak on the lower radiator hose. I think it was because it was my first experience with silicone hoses and I didn't realize how much you needed to actually crank down those clamps. So I stopped in a Pep Boys parking lot, took out my ratchet set and crawled under. Fixed. Still no leaks.

The next weekend I had a music festival way up in the Catskills, a 250 mile drive each way on the NJ Turnpike, Thruway, etc. Again, it was going to be very hot, 95+ and I was a bit nervous about hitting those roads in that heat for that distance. But I decided to drive and aside from it being unbearably hot as I haven't gone about getting the parts to re-install the AC, it drove like a champ. I was surprised that I was able to cruise at 70 MPG in 5th no issue, and even 75-80 without much struggle either.

So, I'm going to be taking a bit of a break from doing work to actually enjoy the truck. Next steps are to start the rest of the soundproofing, in preparation for installing the carpet. I also am waiting for the upholstery to come in so I can get the seats redone.

One little project, I got some OEM mudflaps off eBay in pretty good shape, save for the white lettering. So I repainted those, matte clear coated as well. I was very careful, using 3m green automotive tape and an eXacto knife, but they came out great:


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Old 07-26-2019, 01:57 PM #29
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This is so inspiring!! My wife and I just picked up an 85 DLX that has largely been unmolested. We are planning a full set of restorations and mods. This is the level of detail I hope to go to with the engine, as the previous owner did a great job keeping it in top condition..

I'm stoked to see more pics!

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Old 07-27-2019, 11:27 PM #30
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Freakin awesome!
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