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Old 07-28-2019, 12:37 PM #31
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I love this. I just got an 88 dlx that is in similar shape as to when you got yours. I'm hoping to do a full restore on mine as well. Good work!

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Old 08-27-2019, 12:19 PM #32
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Subscribed. Excellent work so far
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:09 PM #33
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Hi everyone,

Lack of updates, I know. Too much fun with the top off and I've been traveling a lot for work and weddings.





But here are a few items of what I've been working on. Most of my activities now are focused on getting the interior sorted. I had grand plans of soundproofing the floor which consists of sound deadening (butyl based), then a sound proofing with mass-load-vinyl (MLV) on the floors, and closed cell foam on the vertical panels. The cargo area wasn't too hard, and I was able to lay down the sound material and line the quarters, before putting on the new molded vinyl floor covering in light brown. I ordered this from ACC, and to be honest, the wheel well covers were not molded very well. There was a lot of extra material to cut, plus cutting the holes for the roll bar. I think I cut too much off and they don't want to lay flat, even with a relief cut. I'm going to see if I can just order replacement wheel well pieces to give it another go as it's bothering me. I used Noico for the sound deadener and closed cell foam sheets. Then I used SecondSkin Luxury Liner Pro for the mass loaded vinyl. They are the only US based company that offers a mass-loaded vinyl product, which is unfortunate because it comes in precut sheets. I would have liked to order a custom length to have one unbroken sheet, mainly for when I do the passenger area to cut down on gaps where sound can escape.

Sound deadener in place on cargo floor:




Mass-loaded vinyl on floor and closed cell foam on top of deadener in passenger side quarter panels:




ACC Brown factory vinyl cargo area in place:




I gave up on trying to find a body shop or paint supply store that could do custom mixing/matching of SEM ColorCoat interior paint to paint the faded quarter panels. It's a shame since I know the capability exists, but everyone they list as being able to do this, had no clue what I was talking about. And I called about 30 shops in a 250 mile radius. However, I found this Duplicolor ColorMaxx paint that matches almost exact to a stock, non-faded dark brown dash piece (Satin Leather Brown). However, due to fading, it doesn't match so well to the top part of the brown side panel pieces. I'll keep my search going but this suffices for now. I used Duplicolor's Adhesion promoter after wiping it down with wax/grease paint prep removal. No sanding and it adhered great! I was not looking forward to sanding those brittle panels. I also had to paint the Christmas tree clips, because Toyota only makes them in black as replacements, and I didn't have any in the parts bin from the previous owner.








Oh and I also found some OEM front mudflaps in great condition and mounted those. The BFG A/T's are kicking up too many rocks so it comes at a great time. You can also see the restored rears mounted as well








I just got word my bench seat and passenger seat are done at the auto-upholstery place, so I'll be picking those up tomorrow and giving them the driver's seat to do. I still have some work to do before I install the bench seat, like painting the exposed paint areas from primer grey to the factory 033 white, and figure out what I'm doing for sound proofing in the cabin area. I also have to do the remainder of the inner quarter panels with sound deadening and closed cell foam. Then I switch gears to replacing the water pump, and the rabbit hole of my random warm idle misfire (started another thread) that is driving me nuts.

Oh, another little find here as I went through my idle troubleshooting. It was expensive, but I found a new stock OEM igniter module on ebay. I'm going to use it as a tester as testing the igniter is not the easiest thing to do. If it doesn't solve my idle problems, I'm just going to save it for a rainy day in the future when it does eventually crap out. This part has been discontinued since god knows where, so it's always interesting to find new old stock of OEM parts to stash away.


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Old 09-19-2019, 07:34 PM #34
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A lot has happened in the past few weeks, namely getting all my seats back from the upholsterer. So I've been waiting until they were all in to make an update. I was able to find the OEM SR5 tweed fabric from 1985 so I used that to replicate SR5 seats. Since the SR5's didn't have bench seats, I came up with the split design, putting the brown vinyl in the middle and the tweed on the outside to carry the lines. Finally, I came up with the idea to take the leftover fabric and make a custom rear panel to match the interior. I also painted the screw/washers with the same brown I've been using on the faded plastic panels. Carpet is also in, but I messed it up as I didn't realize there was actually a molded area for the front seat rails (didn't let it sit long enough to re-mold. I'm ordering another front piece because I'm anal). Enjoy!




















Also, installed a new Aisin water pump as I have been getting leaks out of the weep hole for months now. I went factory specs and didn't use RTV. In the end, I think I should have. Because even with new hardware and the proper torque specs (which are pretty low), I chased a leak around one of the lower passenger side bolts. I gradually tightened it, tested it, and did one final tightening and the leak stopped. So I'm definitely over on the torque amount but it's not leaking. I think it's because I have the original timing cover and I didn't do the greatest job of cleaning it off.


[


Finally, I installed a marine amplifier (2 x 40 RMS) from Kicker to power the front 4" speakers. I was able to keep the factory radio by using special hi-level speaker-to-RCA inputs. Still a bit strange, since the gain is all the way down and I can't get close to 3/4 volume, but the distortion is gone and I can actually hear music through the 4" Polks with the top off at highway speed. Still need some tweaking here, as I'm thinking the speakers rated at 45 RMS may be a little light so I'm on the hunt for some 60 RMS speakers. I also went through and used sound deadening on the back of the dash panels on the driver's side, since they rattled like crazy. It really worked and they weigh a ton now I also used some foam tape to stop the switches and vents from rattling as well. Now when I push the deck light or rear defrost, it's a solid "click" ... very satisfying











Lastly, I finally found an unbroken, manual 4Runner shift console bezel on eBay after looking for the last 9 months. It's the last interior piece I didn't have. It was blue, but I used that same brown paint with the adhesion promoter, and it looks brand new. Giving this one a long time to dry before I install it ...





On a sadder note, it seems I won't be able to avoid a head gasket replacement. As I've been driving more, I've noticed a small coolant leak but couldn't trace it. After my last longer drive on a weekend, I can now see dyed coolant coming down the driver's side of the block from the head gasket area. It's never overheated since I bought it in March, but I think with a brand new coolant system and no where for it to escape elsewhere, plus the limited time it was driven before I started driving it a lot, contributed to the failure. So, I'm going to try and do it myself, along with the timing chain. Just hoping the weather stays a bit on the warmer side for the month of October. Bummer, but at least I got to enjoy a few weeks with the top off before I shut it down for awhile. But I think I have an oil leak somewhere on the rear side anyway (valve cover gasket possibly, hoping not rear main seal) so I'll be able to tackle that plus a valve adjustment.
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Old 09-21-2019, 01:57 PM #35
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Auxiliary Fuse Block

Daymn! That's lovely work! I wish mine looked that good. I like the vinyl flooring, too! Low-maintenance; No need to vacuum- Just have a little counter brush (that even works on my carpet) and wipe if needed.

Quick thought on auxiliary fuse box.
Auxiliary fuse boxes are typically not switched. A switched one would require a very thick wire to run to the cabin, to a high-current capacity switch (expensive, and maybe hard to find), then back to engine compartment, OR relay with its thinner control wires running to the cabin, to a lighter-duty switch, then back to the relay in the engine compartment. Too much trouble.

I would simply:
1) Determine what circuits and what current load they would have to put on the auxiliary fuse block,
2) Mount it as close as possible to the battery (I have a 4-circuit Blue Sea fuse block but had been too busy to install it).
3) Figure out main wire to carry that total current from battery to the fuse block,
4) Put a fuse or fusible link, inline or mounted as close as possible to the battery on that main wire. (Similar to the fusible link on our 22R-E's).
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-21-2019 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 09-23-2019, 09:45 AM #36
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Awesome build! The attention to detail is amazing, makes me wish I could redo some of the things on my build. I learned the hard way that skipping corners and not going the extra mile with painting components and hardware will bite you in the butt later on, especially living in the rust belt.

I think i may have the same random slight miss fire as you. Does it happen if you hold the throttle at an elevated rpm (1,500-2,000) too. Runs smooth with a small random "miss" or hesitation every couple seconds? I also have an issue where my idle doesn't always settle at the same rpm. I'd say 85% of the time it settles where i want it to, other times it settles a 100-200 rpm high, other times 100-200 rpm low, to the point of nearly dying. did you have this problem as well?
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Old 09-27-2019, 12:17 PM #37
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The seats look beautiful!
Can I ask how you found the fabric?
I have 1985 Sr5Sr5Sr5 vertigo seats in need of repair and I don't know if I will ever find the fabric on Earth.
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Old 09-27-2019, 05:52 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melrose 4r View Post
The seats look beautiful!
Can I ask how you found the fabric?
I have 1985 Sr5Sr5Sr5 vertigo seats in need of repair and I don't know if I will ever find the fabric on Earth.
I reached out to SMS Auto Fabrics and sent them a picture via email. It's worth a shot to try.
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Old 09-27-2019, 05:54 PM #39
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Originally Posted by jsmith7 View Post
Awesome build! The attention to detail is amazing, makes me wish I could redo some of the things on my build. I learned the hard way that skipping corners and not going the extra mile with painting components and hardware will bite you in the butt later on, especially living in the rust belt.

I think i may have the same random slight miss fire as you. Does it happen if you hold the throttle at an elevated rpm (1,500-2,000) too. Runs smooth with a small random "miss" or hesitation every couple seconds? I also have an issue where my idle doesn't always settle at the same rpm. I'd say 85% of the time it settles where i want it to, other times it settles a 100-200 rpm high, other times 100-200 rpm low, to the point of nearly dying. did you have this problem as well?
The miss/erratic idle is only when warm (750 RPMs). The igniter fixed the misses, but I still have a slight idle fluctuation, maybe plus or minus 50 - 100 RPMS) that occurs. I think once I get my TPS perfected, and clean out the IACV, it may clear that up.
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:43 PM #40
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Hi all,

Now that the weather has turned cold, I haven't been able to make much progress. The repair looming over my head is to address a coolant leak, which is either an external driver side head gasket leak, or one/both of the steel heater hoses that wrap around the block, or the EGR cooling plate on the rear. Also, I'm pretty sure my oil consumption is due to a rear half moon/valve cover leak. Lastly, I have some new fuel components (injectors, fuel rail, cold start hard line) to hopefully finally address my random misfire issue. I was going to do them all at the same time, but I really wanted to isolate the misfire issue so I could drive it until the weather is nice enough for consecutive weekends to do the head gasket/timing chain/heater hose/valve cover work.

Last weekend, we had 60 degree temperatures so I decided to tackle the fuel injectors, rail and cold start line. I've never done any fuel work before and I knew it would be a bit messy, but I pushed forward regardless.

For parts, I got an OEM fuel rail, cold start hard line, and rebuilt injectors from LCE. I ordered the second set of rebuilt injectors so I didn't have to wait around to get them rebuilt, but also so I could send out my old injectors to see their before/after specs (and have a backup set on hand). Ignore the fuel filter, I'll be doing that when I do the head gasket when the lower manifold is off for easier access:





After labeling all the vacuum lines, removing/plugging the TB coolant hoses, I broke free the cold start injector line at the plenum and had a rag handy to catch the residual fuel. Then I simply removed all the upper plenum bolts (no issues surprisingly) and pulled off the plenum. Note: I have a spare plenum and manifold currently at 22REPerformance getting refurbished and powder coated, so as disgusting as the current ones are, I didn't bother cleaning them. It looks like this plenum was never removed, because the gasket was fused to the manifold. I decided against removing the gasket and putting on a new one as it would have taken hours, and the gasket was completely intact:









I managed to only slightly damage one of the fuel injector connectors (the one closest to the firewall). I also inspected the wiring and all the boots were still intact, no alarm bells there. Removed the fuel rail and promptly tipped it in the wrong direction, getting fuel everywhere. Definitely have a bigger towel here as there's a lot more fuel in this rail than the cold start injector line. Getting the fuel hard line nut on the fuel return/dampener thing off the rail proved to be a huge pain, so I threw it in a vice and used all my might to remove it. The third injector hole near the cold start line had a bunch of gunk behind it. I'm pretty sure this may have been a culprit for my random misfires/shaky warm idle. All the seals on the old injectors that go into the engine were completely deteriorated. I wouldn't be surprised if these were the original injectors from 1985:








I coated both the o-rings and the engine side seals of the injectors with some motor oil and inserted the injectors into the fuel rail first by rocking them in (see 22REPerformance's YouTube video for a fail safe way to do this). Then I put the assembled rail back into the engine and reconnected the connectors:








After this, it was simply a matter of reconnecting harnesses, coolant hoses to the TB (biggest pain getting those spring clamps back on tight), putting the plenum on and getting the vacuum hoses on correctly. It took a few cranks to start up to build fuel pressure, and I looked for fuel leaks first as I let it run for awhile. Luckily, I used all new crush washers so I had no fuel leaks. I did a test drive and did notice a coolant leak near one of the bypass hoses (the one under the thermostat). I finally purchases some offset pliers as the spring clamp was impossible to get to with any other tool. After moving it up close to the TB, the coolant leak stopped.

Results? After about 200 miles of driving, stopping and listening to the exhaust rhythm and engine, I can safely say the random misfire at warm idle is finally gone. I no longer have those random "put-puts" every 5 to 20 seconds. It runs completely smooth at warm idle, and there is no longer any hesitation on pulling the throttle.

Lessons learned? If you're struggling with a warm idle issue/rich exhaust, and don't know the age or health of your injectors, just go ahead and replace them. It took me about 3 hours and I took my time. If I didn't replace the fuel rail, it would have taken 2 hours given my struggles with the nuts on either end. With the core charge, the injectors were $250.00 for the set for 1984 to 1987 22RE's (22RE Type-C Equalized Fuel Injector Set (1983-1987)).

I'll be sending my old injectors to Witchunter for cleaning and testing. I'll very curious to see how bad these were performing.
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Old 01-20-2020, 12:35 PM #41
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Good report. I probably need to do this injector inspection/cleaning also so this is very helpful. I look forward to your injector cleaning report.
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Old 01-24-2020, 12:29 AM #42
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Nice rig. Way to get quality parts that last!

Do you not have room to pull the engine? It is so much easier to fix things on the stand. With the quality of the truck's condition, that engine is begging for more shine!
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Old 02-20-2020, 06:13 PM #43
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Very cool 4R. Nice work.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:11 PM #44
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Nice rig. Way to get quality parts that last!

Do you not have room to pull the engine? It is so much easier to fix things on the stand. With the quality of the truck's condition, that engine is begging for more shine!
When I originally started this back in March of 2019, I hadn't done much more than an oil change to a car, so I wasn't about to dive in and pull out an engine. Also, at that time, I had planned on ordering an engine for Spring of 2020 from 22REPerformance, so I was just working to familiarize myself with the workings of the 22RE, and get the engine bay painted to match the truck best I could. Now, because it ran so well after all my repairs, it gave me more confidence to tackle bigger items and forgo the engine replacement for now. As stated in prior posts, I'm waiting on good weather to do the head gasket/timing chain and valve cover gasket to address the 2 remaining issues: external coolant leak and valve cover oil leak. Once those two items are fixed, the truck will be mechanically perfect. I still may get an engine for 2021 depending on how this summer goes, but in that case, I'll have brand new parts to swap over and all the hard work will have been done.

On that note, I finally received my manifolds and valve cover back from 22REPerformance, who did a full restoration and powder coating. When I do the head gasket, I'll be able to clean up what's remaining and install these parts on it when I put it back together, along with new steel heater hoses too. So the remaining items of the engine that aren't clean will now be shiny and brand new hopefully some time in late March/early April.







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Old 02-24-2020, 06:31 PM #45
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I understand.

Nice looking parts!
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