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Old 06-24-2019, 02:53 PM #16
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HA! Dogs love first gens! I take my neighbor's dog for rides in mine.
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Old 06-24-2019, 08:58 PM #17
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The nice thing about these old Toyotas is that the electrics are fairly simple and pretty robust - different from the Land Rover/Range Rover with Lucas electrics.

How do you know your Range rover is on fire? All of the gauges start working.

Why do the English drink warm beer? They all have Lucas refrigerators.

When I was in the UK, I had a Range Rover for a few months. First the left tail light fell off going over a smallish bump (the car had just passed MOT - the inspection - a week earlier) and then all the gauges started to work. Luckily I hadn't had it long enough to load it up with junk.

I was a glutton for punishment - replaced it with a new XJS-V12HE. A year later, that one blew a water hose on the autobahn in Germany going 240kmh (about 150mph).
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:42 AM #18
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Truck couldn't have been black, because of the red interior paint on the floor

I would recommend only the rear OME leaf springs if you carry a lot of weight in the back. They are crazy stiff and uncomfortable for street driving. Also their front torsion bars are ridiculously stiff on a stock truck. I see you have a front tube bumper but that wouldn't make much of a difference.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:41 AM #19
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Originally Posted by Cali 4runner View Post
Truck couldn't have been black, because of the red interior paint on the floor

I would recommend only the rear OME leaf springs if you carry a lot of weight in the back. They are crazy stiff and uncomfortable for street driving. Also their front torsion bars are ridiculously stiff on a stock truck. I see you have a front tube bumper but that wouldn't make much of a difference.

I believe the PO had stripped the interior and painted the truck fully. I know it was an automatic and they changed to manual so they had done a decent amount of work under the carpet moving some switches and wiring around. The weatherstripping between roof and cab had red paint covering it as well, and black beneathe. Could be wrong, but I know the truck had been in a wreck and rebuilt previously so just took their word for it.

The tube bumpers seem specific to the body lift, so I figured I would either modify them so they could stay after removing or reducing the body lift from 3" to 1" or simply replace period. The rear tire carrier doesn't seem to be rated to the size of the spare, as it moves a decent amount over bumps (the spare).

I also noticed over the weekend that the truck is simply not good on the highway. I have the pedal floored to keep it at 70 (using GPS speedo) and many downshifts to keep it over 65 on hills. I imagine most of that is due to the massive 33x12.5's. Unsure of the gearing, assuming stock. Has anyone downsized to a 31 from a 33? Would moving from a 12.5 to 10.5 make much of a difference if the tire was much lighter? I typically need to drive at least 2-3 hours on the interstate to get anywhere worth wheeling and camping, so getting better fuel economy and drive-ability on the interstate would be very nice.
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Old 07-01-2019, 08:45 AM #20
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I stand corrected. Just decoded the vin and it was a red truck. PO must have been misinformed.
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Old 07-01-2019, 04:46 PM #21
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Man, that is a clean truck! What kind of rim's are you running?
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Old 07-02-2019, 09:29 AM #22
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Man, that is a clean truck! What kind of rim's are you running?
They came on the truck, but believe they are American Racing AR172 Baja. Not my cup of tea, but I have plenty of other things I want to change like removing the body lift which also means bumpers... I'll get there eventually
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Old 07-04-2019, 11:17 AM #23
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Going from 33-12.50 to 33-10.50s would help a LOT! Steering, braking, acceleration and fuel economy will all improve substantially by going 2” narrower. You could gain some more by going to 31s, but I think 33s are the perfect size for these 1st gens. You highway speeds may actually decrease with 31s due to higher overall gearing. You would be quicker up the hills (possibly) but slower at higher rpm on the flats. Just keep in mind that you are driving a 30+ year old truck. It’s not meant to be quick!
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Old 07-05-2019, 09:02 AM #24
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Originally Posted by Redthies View Post
Going from 33-12.50 to 33-10.50s would help a LOT! Steering, braking, acceleration and fuel economy will all improve substantially by going 2” narrower. You could gain some more by going to 31s, but I think 33s are the perfect size for these 1st gens. You highway speeds may actually decrease with 31s due to higher overall gearing. You would be quicker up the hills (possibly) but slower at higher rpm on the flats. Just keep in mind that you are driving a 30+ year old truck. It’s not meant to be quick!
Going to 10.5's would allow me to remove the body lift as well? (if I read correctly) I understand the truck is old, but my International Scout could still cruise at 75 without overdrive, as well as the Range Rover Classic. The 4R just wasn't geared for the tire size by the po so trying to decide if I rather go to 4.88's or move to a smaller tire. I do love the 33's on it though, just don't much like seeing so much of the frame.


I did a bit of work on my day off yesterday, first trying to replace the vent window seal that causes quite a bit of noise. Unfortunately the part that I ordered did not match what is actually on the truck. The truck has a seal that extends to a point at the front, whereas the replacement seal that I ordered through a dealer is flat, which would leave a large gap. I will need to research this a bit before ordering again.




I then removed the sad original horn which sounded like a sick sheep, and installed a Stebel Nautilius. This may piss some of you off but I trimmed the grill to fit it rather than mounting in the engine bay. The grill already has cracks and flaws so I did not mind cutting into it.







Finally I installed a mount for my portable radio. I am in the middle of studying for the HAM Technician License, testing in August, so excited to be able to use it.

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Old 07-05-2019, 11:48 AM #25
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What engine do you have? 22RE? My truck is fine with 33x10.50s with the V6 auto and 4.30 gears. The 5 speed should be a bit better? Is your suspension original? I’m running OME and have lots of wheel well clearance. I’m not a fan of body lifts either, but if your springs are still original, you will probably want to upgrade them whether you go to 31s or skinny 33s. They do make a 32x11.50 as a middle ground, or if you go to 16” or 17” wheels the metric size options are huge.
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:04 PM #26
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What engine do you have? 22RE? My truck is fine with 33x10.50s with the V6 auto and 4.30 gears. The 5 speed should be a bit better? Is your suspension original? I’m running OME and have lots of wheel well clearance. I’m not a fan of body lifts either, but if your springs are still original, you will probably want to upgrade them whether you go to 31s or skinny 33s. They do make a 32x11.50 as a middle ground, or if you go to 16” or 17” wheels the metric size options are huge.
The truck is a 3.0 with a 5 speed. Unsure on suspension, assumed oem.
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Old 07-05-2019, 12:30 PM #27
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The truck is a 3.0 with a 5 speed. Unsure on suspension, assumed oem.
You most likely have the 4.10 gears then. One relatively easy solution is to swap out the 3rds for 4.88 ones. They are quite common in the 2nd Gen 4Runners, and bolt right in. That would bring up your mpgs and help with drivability. In the pics you’ve posted, the frame doesn’t look like it sticks out too much. Probably easier to keep rust at bay if you can get to the top of the frame too?
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Old 07-09-2019, 11:04 AM #28
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You most likely have the 4.10 gears then. One relatively easy solution is to swap out the 3rds for 4.88 ones. They are quite common in the 2nd Gen 4Runners, and bolt right in. That would bring up your mpgs and help with drivability. In the pics you’ve posted, the frame doesn’t look like it sticks out too much. Probably easier to keep rust at bay if you can get to the top of the frame too?
That is one optimistic way of looking at it, and is a good point. I am in Michigan after all. I will take a look at the thirds and think on it for awhile.

After growing tired of the missing side emblems, I ordered a set.





I then adjusted the passenger side mirror which keeps losing adjustment:



The truck gets its first longer shakedown this weekend. I am taking my gf and pup up to camp and follow a GAIA route i worked on in the national forest a few hours from me over the weekend. I am very excited.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:18 AM #29
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The truck did great, albeit the highway required lots of shifting down to 4th on hills.






The ORV route I planned on Gaia was disappointing but I did learn quite a bit about Gaia so it was still a successful trip.







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Old 07-17-2019, 10:37 PM #30
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Nice looking truck! Nice Range Rover too. A friend of mine just bought one and broke a door handle (exterior). Has managed to find a new one but it's $300AUD! Made me glad to own a Toyota.

Regarding the vent window seal, the one you've received looks like it is for a later model with the door mirror in the corner. Googling confirms 88-94. P/No. for your truck would be 6818189105 (RH) and 6818289105 (LH).

If you do end up going new rubbers, a quick rundown of how they're installed would be great. I've started swapping the doors on my truck as it didn't come with vents, and have got one rubber installed though the door trim does not sit properly and the vent window does not open/close properly.
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