Rear window goes up with key but won't go down - works from console. - Toyota 4Runner Forum

rgkharrison · 03-21-2020, 07:12 PM

Sorry for another rear window/tailgate thread but I can't find anything that matches my issue...

Picked up a 93 4Runner a few days ago and the window wouldn't budge at all. Bypassed the wiper relay and got it down with the key in the tailgate, and then got it back up again. Day or two later I try again and the key in the tailgate won't drop the window... but the center console will. Key still works to raise the window.

I did some quick basics to try and clean up some the issues... window was raising very slowly (especially at the top) and was loud and clunky as it moved... Hit the gears and rails in the tailgate with some WD40 and cleaned out the rubber weatherstrip rails in the top. Moves much quieter and a little smoother now, but key doesn't drop it at all.

Moved on to the lock itself... was thinking something similar to this thread Tailgate Lock Cylinder Repair (walkthrough) but I think that's for a 1st gen. I also don't understand why the key would work to raise the window but not drop it... WD40'd the cylinder from outside and from inside the tailgate and the key now feels MUCH smoother (it was sticky and had a lot of resistance at first) but still no movement when turning to the right.

Any ideas? I figure tomorrow I'll just try to pull the whole lock cylinder from the tailgate if I can get it out and see if I can take it apart. I'm thinking it's probably just a dirty or broken connection somewhere but I really don't know what I'll be looking for unless something is obviously broken/dirty.

williamc51 · 03-21-2020, 09:59 PM

My 90 has the same problem haven’t dug into it yet let me know what you find. Thanks

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wallytoo · 03-21-2020, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rgkharrison

I also don't understand why the key would work to raise the window but not drop it...

very likely a wiring issue. the wiring is brittle after 25 years, and can crack or fray. you’ll want to get out your multimeter to test for continuity and to do voltage tests.

RAD4Runner · 03-21-2020, 10:21 PM

Console control ALWAYS work both up and down, correct?
Then it is most likely:
1) Wiring between key switch and relay,
2) Key switch itself.

You can do it "scientifically" by finding schematic, finding which wire AT relay is connected to DOWN position of key switch, checking if it gets GROUND when keyed to down.
OR just inspect/clean wires and switch.
Either of above is legit troubleshooting.

rgkharrison · 03-22-2020, 01:21 PM

And a brief update as I do some more reading...

Currently can't get the window up or down using either the key in tailgate or the center console.

Went out this morning and got the window down - I think I got it down through the console with no problems. Dropped the tailgate, set the latches, tried to raise it with the key in the tailgate and nothing.

There's a click when I turn the key or when I hit the console button thats coming from the trim on the drivers side. Twice I've managed to get the window to raise about an inch before it stops... then takes some finagling to get it to drop again.

** I'm assuming the clicking is coming from the relay in that area... I just don't know what that *means*. If the relay gives an audible click when I hit the button is that a sign that the relay is functioning properly or the culprit? **

Trying to check the wiring and whatever connections I can access (I can't reach the lock cylinder because the window is currently stuck down and the glass is in the way). I'll be looking for a wiring diagram and trying to figure something out as I race the rain that is headed my way.

rgkharrison · 03-22-2020, 02:47 PM

Annndddd... managed to get it back up, although no clue what changed.

Played with the rails that I could reach a bit, reconnected some random ground wire that seems to tie in to a uhaul towing plug (tested the window right after that and no progress), and massaged and reconnected a whole bunch of connections.

Going to leave the window alone for a week while its supposed to be rainy and I'm working on engine related issues. I'll update the thread again if I ever make progress or figure things out. Plan for when I get back to it is basically start over... try to get the window down, clean/grease everything, check all connections, and go from there.

Arild · 03-22-2020, 04:31 PM

I was in the same boat as you once. Those tailgates on a 2nd gen can cause some serious headaches

I'm not saying this IS your solution but it COULD be. And i think it could be helpfull if i share my experience.

I could not get the window up with the key but the console switch worked fine, up and down.

Wiper position wasn't the issue.
Relay wasn't faulty.
Wiring and connectors were all good.
Motor worked.

In my case, the problem was the little plastic that pops on the key cilinder. There is a VERY thin metal ring that provides the 12v connection when turned left or right. That thin metal layer was broken.

As you can see in the picture below, there is a little crack in the LEFT half of the ring. The black cutout on the RIGHT is normal.

I did a quick and dirty fix until i find a new one. It's holding up so far.

When you're at it, please clean the rail, that big spring (that's what's making the squeeking noise) and everything else. I soaked it all in WD40, let it rest for 15min, cleaned it out, did it again and greased it all with ceramic grease.

It was a 4 hour job but it was worth it.
Hope this helps.