Quote:
Originally Posted by CCDave
For troubleshooting a cold start issue, start by checking the ohms on the cold start time switch (brown one under the water neck in your last photo). Also check the ohms on the Cold Start Injector. More info on both of these tests are here: LC ENGINEERING Tech Notes
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I actually checked the cold start injector, cold start time switch and the water temp sensor yesterday.
The injector ohms is within spec and when I put 12v of power to it, the injector fires like it should.
For the Cold Start Switch, I followed a video showing how to test it. I checked the ohms with the probe submerged in room temperature water and also checked it submerged in 180 degree water. The ohms were within spec for both tests.
I did the same for the water temp sensor that's next to the cold start switch and it also showed within spec submerged in room temp and 180 degree temp water.
I took out the cold start injector and hooked it up backwards onto the fuel line facing the driver side of the engine compartment. I didn't want to tweak the metal fuel line enough to see if the injector was firing in the regular orientation. The engine was cold and I had my girlfriend turn the engine over. No spray of fuel came out. I next disconnected the connector to the injector and hooked my multimeter up to it while my girlfriend turned the motor over. I didn't get any power to the plug.
Since the cold start switch checked out fine and there's no power being sent to the injector on a cold start, that leaves me with the possibility of a wiring problem. But, before I start ripping the engine apart to expose the wiring harness, I'm just going to swap out the cold start switch and see if it fixes the issue. I did read somewhere that a guy tested his cold start switch like I did, found it tested fine based off the ohms specs in the factory service manual and assumed it had to be something else. When he ran out of possibilities and was super frustrated that he couldn't find the fix, he decided to replace the cold start switch anyway and it fixed his problem. So, it sounds like this component can possibly test fine but still be bad. It's a pricey part, but I'd rather drop $150 at this point for a chance it will fix the issue rather than spend the time to tear apart the engine to investigate a wiring problem.