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Old 01-20-2015, 04:43 AM #1
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3.0 engine removal help

Ive searched around but havent found many people posting info about removing the 3.0

I told my neighbor i could take out his overheated 3.0 and replace it with a imported 3.0 replacement that he wants to get.
This will be his second time throwing a different 3.0 back in due to the notorious head gasket issue but he still wants to stay with the 3.0.

My question is how difficult is it to remove (without trans), are there any hard to get to bolts i should know about, or things that commonly break to look out for when pulling it etc...(auto 4wd 2nd gen)

Ive done over 10 different swaps in 240sx's including mine with a LS1 but never dug this deep into a 4runner, just looking for some tips to have everything go smoothly.
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:18 PM #2
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I'm actually in the middle of an exact swap right now, you can go to my thread I have about it. Everything is basically straight forward, just takes a little cussing and patience. But, a word of advice, I didn't do the whole 10 foot of extensions trick everyone uses to get to the top bell housing bolts, I just took off the lower intake, removed my crossover pipe (removed the nuts and pushed it back to the firewall, you aren't getting that sucker out with the engine still in there), and get a wrench and your top 2 bolts will be fairly easy to access. Again, this takes a ton of patience, but if yours is an automatic like mine, you may be better off just taking a step back and pulling the tranny with it. I know it sounds a lot more time consuming but I can't begin to tell you how many hours I've spent trying to hook the two back together with the tranny still in the truck. I'm going to be messing with it more tonight, and probably just pulling the tranny. HOWEVER, there is two little brackets that bolt on the lower part of the block that are used for the bottom 4 bell housing, you MAY be able to get away with leaving those loose (room to wiggle) and try hooking them up to the tranny before you tighten them down. My problem is not all of my bolt holes line up, it's almost like the tranny has rolled on me and I can't get it to the right spot again. And another piece of advice, I hope you have a torch handy. Those cam gears and crank gear bolts are a B**** to get off, and if I was you I would go ahead and replace his knock sensor and wire, because if it starts throwing codes once its all back together you'll have to remove the lower intake and everything on top of it again. If you have any questions about how I did something or just anything feel free to message me or somethin, I'm pretty sure I'll have an answer for you
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:16 PM #3
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Ok so I ended up NOT having to pull the tranny, just took a ton of wiggling and shaking to get everything lined up. If you think you can do the tranny tho it'd make life a lot easier
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:56 PM #4
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engtrans or eng & trans install

youch talk about timely

I have a 3vz going into a 95 any day(S) now .

Pulled it as a unit with trans some years back but that was long ago memory.

Am lucky to have a 11' beam & chain fall, a flat place to work mostly warm and a trans jack that should handle it, but still all I remember was thinking thats the biggest damn piece of metal I ever dared lift and only wanted to once.

But based on your comment about the top bell bolts has me scared to say least

looks like it goes back in married. really ?

IS it doable in pieces trans up close & waiting for motor ?

I gotta work alone

thanks for advcie
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:06 AM #5
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@gtgt_bangbang I'm not really sure if that was directed toward me or not, but if it was it has me a little confused..
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:00 AM #6
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hi, yes asking for 3VZ install insights

sorry if baffling. cant work on the t4r tonight so inspected the seagrams.

I have to put a 3vz in a 95 very soon.

I have to work solo but I have a decent place to work in and some hella handy tools like a chain fall and tranny jack.

I was debating to put the engine and the trans in SEPARATE or TOGETHER.

OF course I'd rather handle the two parts separate as more manageable but not if its going to be hell getting them together under the truck. Doesnt look fun working with the frame in place. I guess the block could only go as low as the missing motor mounts would account for.

I took out eng & trans in one assembly but that seems like forever ago. Or a couple years at least and I have no experience splitting a M&T under this particular rig

Reading the thread here seems that there isnt much room to join the eng & trans UNDER the truck.

advice welcome. Is it doable or crazy to join M&T under car ?

I recall the 6 and that loooong trans very much a handfull
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:49 AM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgt_bangbang View Post
sorry if baffling. cant work on the t4r tonight so inspected the seagrams.

I have to put a 3vz in a 95 very soon.

I have to work solo but I have a decent place to work in and some hella handy tools like a chain fall and tranny jack.

I was debating to put the engine and the trans in SEPARATE or TOGETHER.

OF course I'd rather handle the two parts separate as more manageable but not if its going to be hell getting them together under the truck. Doesnt look fun working with the frame in place. I guess the block could only go as low as the missing motor mounts would account for.

I took out eng & trans in one assembly but that seems like forever ago. Or a couple years at least and I have no experience splitting a M&T under this particular rig

Reading the thread here seems that there isnt much room to join the eng & trans UNDER the truck.

advice welcome. Is it doable or crazy to join M&T under car ?

I recall the 6 and that loooong trans very much a handfull
Well, I mean I finally got mine hooked together in the truck so it IS possible, just a pain in the a$$. If you have a 2wd than I say pull the tranny with it, it will probably keep you from attempting suicide than if you didn't. However, if you have a 4wd like me and don't want to bother with the transfer case than I say just leave it in. Ya, it'll be a little harder but like I said it is possible, just takes a lot of cussing and wiggling and shaking
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Old 01-22-2015, 04:28 PM #8
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thanks for the feedback.
Im more worried about banging up the torque converter seal , etc.

I do have the 4wd , but I also have a sturdy ceiling beam high off floor in garage with a harbor freight chainfall hanging off it. It got it out but that is no more than faded bad memory.

Thing is I am working solo and with a move underway, no fam/visitors to come pry me from out under a dropped load until the stink reaches the neighbors

lol maybe I need to web cast the work so someone can call 911 if my feet quit moving and my cussing stops for more than a couple minutes ( yes I love this part of the job)
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Old 11-09-2019, 08:08 PM #9
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How to remove top bolts

Dropbox - 4runner - Simplify your life

I added a video to my drop box if you want to take a look on how to remove the 2 top bolts from the bell housing.
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