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Old 01-11-2020, 04:51 PM #1
hadia hadia is offline
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No start (no click/no crank) when engine hot.

(1990 Toyota 4Runner, Automatic, V6, 3L, SR5, 3-VZE)

I have intermittent start problem for a while now and everything in the path of Starting System and Charging system have been checked, cleaned and/or replaced (mostly replaced) based on peopleís recommendation on other threads and my own research without results (except I have not touched the distributor yet), but my finding is that it happens more often during the hot season (70 Degree or higher) and long distances (>25 miles)(I have heat shield installed around the starter too). It wonít happen during the winter time as often. I am convinced it has to do with a heat sensitive part!

In this post the only thing I am interested to know is: What heat sensitive parts would prevent car from starting (no click, no crank)? I appreciate it if the answers and comments concentrate on this subject.

Based on what I have researched and read, for example,
Coolant temp sensor may cause rough start but not a no click/no crank start problem. ( just ordered one anyway and will replace this)
The heated Oxygen sensor may cause engine light to come on but it would not stop the car from starting.
Bad thermostat may cause engine temp issues but would not prevent engine from starting.
So, what heat sensitive parts could prevent the car to start (with no click/no crank at all)?

To recap, please note that:

(1990 Toyota 4Runner, Automatic, V6, 3L, SR5, 3-VZE)
1_ It is an intermittent problem and not a hard fail. (it wonít fail when you want it too!)
2_ When it fails to start there is no click or crank!
2_ Even in the summer, as long as the car is running it is fine and temp gauge always reading normally). It is only after a stop and shutting engine off that there is >90% chance the car may not start.
3_ Engine light never come on when this happens and there is never an engine code failure registered.
3_ It always starts after an hour or two of waiting without doing anything

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-12-2020, 07:25 PM #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hadia View Post
(1990 Toyota 4Runner, Automatic, V6, 3L, SR5, 3-VZE)
In this post the only thing I am interested to know is: What heat sensitive parts would prevent car from starting (no click, no crank)? I appreciate it if the answers and comments concentrate on this subject.
Ignition coils are known to do this, more common on small engines but does happen
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:01 PM #3
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Thank you for the suggestion jbtvt! Previously out of suspicion, I replaced the coil control module (not the coil) and that did not help. To verify the coil, I loosened the coil contact and I got a rough start and an engine fault. When my No Start problem happens I expect the Engine light on or a fault registered, but there are none; the reason I have not replaced it!
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Old 01-12-2020, 11:39 PM #4
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Edit, on second thought you say no crank, it should still crank with a bad coil, missed that on my first skim through. If it doesn't die on its own and is strictly limited to a starting issue you should consider rewiring your start circuit, Pick up this thread from here - Gevo's 91 4Runner Build Thread - Page 19 - YotaTech Forums O2, coolant temp etc are irrelevant to anything other than proper running after start and closed loop mode is entered

4. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the positive (+) and negative (–) terminals.
Primary coil resistance (Cold):
0.36–0.55
Primary coil resistance (Hot):
0.45–0.660
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the igni–
tion coil
5. INSPECT SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between
the positive (+) terminal and high–tension terminal.
Secondary coil resistance (Cold):
9.0 – 15.4 k
Secondary coil resistance (Hot):
11.4 – 18.1 k
If the resistance is not as specified, replace the igni–
tion coil.

Distributor check is attached as image. There's also a whole section (pages, too long, not copied) about the plug wires, which can lead to coil failure. Not mentioned here in the FSM is the "tap" test for testing the igniter. I can't remember how to do it off the top of my head, Google should know though.
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No start (no click/no crank) when engine hot.-untitled-jpg 
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Last edited by jbtvt; 01-12-2020 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 01-13-2020, 02:26 AM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hadia View Post
(1990 Toyota 4Runner, Automatic, V6, 3L, SR5, 3-VZE)...
So, what heat sensitive parts could prevent the car to start (with no click/no crank at all)?...
Please clarify,
1) This is "No-CLICK, NO-CRANK" problem correct? Starter and engine does not turn at all, OR
2) No "Combustion" problem. Motor turns but air-fuel mixture is no ignited.

If (1), do not mess with ignition or fuel injection system. Look at cranking system.

You have an automatic so current needed to energize the starter solenoid has to travel a very long way and through a neutral safety switch which MAY BE AT THE TRANSMISSION* so may have dirty contacts. This causes too much power loss over wiring and contacts.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, pls check if your starter solenoid CONSISTENTLY works when you apply 12V directly from battery to its control pin as shown on my post here:
RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 43 - YotaTech Forums

See more on my post on Yotatech. Here:
Starter Relay Re-Wire or Retrofit for 95 and earlier Trucks / 4Runner - YotaTech Forums









* I don't know because I have a 22RE with manual tranny
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 01-13-2020 at 02:40 AM.
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