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Old 04-09-2020, 08:52 PM #1
Rnc1592 Rnc1592 is offline
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Electrical issue has everyone stumped

So my buddy and I were getting ready to start working on my 93 Runner. The hood was open and he was at the front of the truck. I started the truck, there was a spark he said from the negative terminal connector to the battery itself and then everything went dead. No inside lights, no door alarm, no nothing. I did some research and everything pointed to the fusible link wire. So I replaced that. We tested power at both ends of the 80amp main fuse and everything is getting good power. Still have absolutely no power inside the truck. You’d think it has no battery in it at all. We are all stumped where to look next. Suggestions?
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Old 04-10-2020, 05:08 PM #2
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I everybody and loved ones are safe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rnc1592 View Post
... We tested power at both ends of the 80amp main fuse and everything is getting good power....
A problem well-stated is almost solved. Pls put us AT your truck. Describe everything you see, hear, feel, smell related to the problem.

What is "everything"? If everything is getting good power,then there is no problem.
Battery voltage?
Are you using a multi-meter or test light? I DO NOT TRUST TEST LIGHT.
Where are you connecting your negative multi-meter probe?
Battery connections bare, shiny metal and tight?
Hazards and horn work? Those do not take power from inside the truck.
Did you check everything after the fuse?
What voltage goes into the IGN switch?
What voltage do you get after IGN switch at every position?
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If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
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Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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Old 04-11-2020, 12:46 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
A problem well-stated is almost solved. Pls put us AT your truck. Describe everything you see, hear, feel, smell related to the problem.

What is "everything"? If everything is getting good power,then there is no problem.
There is power at both the end of the fusible link wire as well as the other side of the 80amp main fuse

Quote:
Battery voltage?
Are you using a multi-meter or test light? I DO NOT TRUST TEST LIGHT.
Where are you connecting your negative multi-meter probe?
Battery reads at 12.5. Multi-meter. Negative was connected to the negative terminal
Quote:
Battery connections bare, shiny metal and tight?
Yes. While we were troubleshooting a little I went around and cleaned up both battery terminals and the one ground that was accessible. I’m assuming there are more than just the one ground but I don’t know where they are

Quote:
Hazards and horn work? Those do not take power from inside the truck.
Did you check everything after the fuse?
What voltage goes into the IGN switch?
What voltage do you get after IGN switch at every position?
No hazards, door alarm or horn. It’s like there isn’t a battery in the truck at all. The side that runs from the other side of the fuse goes into the chassis, and I didn’t know where to check as I’m not sure exactly how to check or where they go. It was getting power directly after the fuse. I’m not sure the answers to the last two questions (this is my first project and I’m still learning. I didn’t know how to change oil even before this ��) but I will figure out how to check that and get those numbers either sometime this week or on my weekend (thurs/fri)

As for a better description of sight, sound, smell. Everything from what I can tell looks and smells normal. We did discover while poking around in the fuse box that where the starter relay plugs in appears to have been replaced because it looks brand new. As for sounds I get absolutely nothing. No starter clicking or any indication that things are getting power.

Last edited by Rnc1592; 04-11-2020 at 12:48 PM. Reason: More info
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Old 04-15-2020, 04:46 PM #4
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Old 04-15-2020, 10:23 PM #5
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When you said you cleaned, did you take connections apart?
Cleaned all contacting surfaces to bare, shiny metal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rnc1592 View Post
... there was a spark he said from the negative terminal connector to the battery itself a
Please let us see what you are working with.
Post picture of that "connector" and where it goes. Let us see what you are seeing.

If you put the the negative test probe to frame/inner fender metal, you would detect if there is a problem with the ground side.
Always touch clean, bare, shiny metal with test probe when testing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rnc1592 View Post
...I’m assuming there are more than just the one ground but I don’t know where they are...
Battery negative to inner fender metal.
Battery negative to engine block.

Quote:
this is my first project and I’m still learning. I didn’t know how to change oil even before this ��...
Which makes it more important that you put us AT YOUR TRUCK.
If you show us exactly what you are/were looking at, we can show you where to check based on SaulG's schematic^^^

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Originally Posted by SaulG View Post
perhaps
Thanks SaulG!
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86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
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