08-18-2020, 08:24 PM
|
#1
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
1987 complete brake rebuild
It’s time, pedal to rotors it’s all getting replaced. 1987 22re but I’m buying new anyway so later v6 bits are going in. Looks to me like 91’ v6 parts across the board should bolt on and wok together as intended. Just confirming that 91’ parts will fit.
Thanks.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-19-2020, 12:08 AM
|
#2
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Elsinore, Ca
Posts: 467
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Elsinore, Ca
Posts: 467
Real Name: Kevin
|
Calipers and rotors are larger. You'll need to slightly add clearance of the dust plate. I would suggest also replacing the hoses with steel braid hoses and don't forget the rear load sensing valve. They tend to corrode and the piston sticks.
I also went with DOT 5.
Good project, its nice knowing it'll stop.
__________________
1987 22R-E, SR5. 5 Speed, 31's BFG A/T, stock wheels. 4.56 Gears, Rear Detroit locker Front True Track. 1.5" BJ Spacers & Extended Shackles in the rear.
1992 3.0, SR5. 5 Speed. 31's BFG M/T, stock wheels. 4.30 Gears-NON ADD- manual hubs, Elocker, 1.5" BJ Spacers, Moog springs w/ spacers. Sold
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-19-2020, 12:21 PM
|
#3
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
Thanks for the validation
@ kc15842
. The load sensing valve will be removed entirely and replaced with a manual biasing valve. Front is well documented, the rear wheel cylinders/drums/hardware will be swapped to 91'/v6 as well which should be some improvement over stock 87'/22re. If you have any experience with the rear swap it would be greatly appreciated. As for stainless lines I'll have to poke around again, my first search didn't bear fruit.
S.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-21-2020, 12:16 PM
|
#4
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,836
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,836
|
I think you should also upgrade master cylinder, and possibly the vacuum booster.
I also wonder if those from V6 would plug and play.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdb999
... As for stainless lines I'll have to poke around again..
|
IIRC, member KEYCW on yotatech just did brake upgrade with SS lines.
__________________
86 4Runner, 22R-Eliable, 5-Speed Manual, dlx. WHAT'S YOURS?
If you want us to help from afar please let us see, hear, feel what you're dealing with.
A picture paints a thousand words.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Issues often arise from poor wiring, assembly and/or maintenance. Suspect those first.
Next only to our senses, the multi-meter is the most important electrical diagnostic tool. Spend $6 at Harbor Freight or $$$ blindly replacing parts.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-23-2020, 01:16 AM
|
#6
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Winnipeg MB Canada
Posts: 57
Real Name: Paul
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Winnipeg MB Canada
Posts: 57
Real Name: Paul
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyde802
|
I have an 88, would the kit in that link work for mine?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-23-2020, 10:54 AM
|
#7
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Elsinore, Ca
Posts: 467
Real Name: Kevin
|
|
Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Lake Elsinore, Ca
Posts: 467
Real Name: Kevin
|
Measure your lines. These are extended for folks that have lifted the truck. My guess these are 3-5" longer than stock.
__________________
1987 22R-E, SR5. 5 Speed, 31's BFG A/T, stock wheels. 4.56 Gears, Rear Detroit locker Front True Track. 1.5" BJ Spacers & Extended Shackles in the rear.
1992 3.0, SR5. 5 Speed. 31's BFG M/T, stock wheels. 4.30 Gears-NON ADD- manual hubs, Elocker, 1.5" BJ Spacers, Moog springs w/ spacers. Sold
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-23-2020, 01:52 PM
|
#8
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Winnipeg MB Canada
Posts: 57
Real Name: Paul
|
|
Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Winnipeg MB Canada
Posts: 57
Real Name: Paul
|
Ah, good to know! My truck is stocky, which is how I prefer it. My brake lines all need replacing, and at least my front calipers, but I'm pretty new to the brakes game. Should I bother trying to replace them with stock compatible parts, or is it worth looking to installing newer parts like you are since it's going to be an investment anyway? Appreciate your knowledge, and looking forward to hearing about your swap and seeing pictures if you don't mind . If it works out well, it'd be nice to see all you did and all you needed to purchase to make it happen!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
08-25-2020, 09:49 PM
|
#9
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
This is good stuff, I’ll look at my lines for length. Yes, when it happens booster and master cylinder will be upgraded as well.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-06-2022, 02:39 PM
|
#10
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
Done! All went well and didn't have to cut/flare a single brake line. Complete 91' V6 OEM brakes from firewall to hub. Additional: Removed load sensing valve, new rear wheel bearings/seals, fresh diff fluid and Wilwood prop valve. Stops like it never did before.
S.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
01-20-2022, 12:08 PM
|
#11
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: ga
Posts: 79
|
Only cut/flared one line, at the rear deleting the original load sensing prop valve. So far this is very easy to adjust.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Rate This Thread |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|