12-15-2020, 04:20 PM
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#1
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Water Pump
1990 T4r 4x4 w/ auto
Within the last couple days periodically metal rattling sound and getting worse with the front pulley developing a wobble; hopefully nothing major: intend removing the radiator for a closer look?
I have some knowledge when it comes to auto repair, mostly with early model vehicles.
Suspect possible water pump curious if I should tow it to shop or tackle as a 'do it myself and if I attempt the project any suggestions regarding replacement part source.
Comments and suggestions appreciated!!
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Dave
'The problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when you are done'
1990 T4r, SR5, Auto, 4X4
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12-21-2020, 08:53 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northfield, VT
Posts: 3,616
Real Name: Caleb
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northfield, VT
Posts: 3,616
Real Name: Caleb
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Which engine?
If its a 3.0, you can change the fan without changing the waterpump. The waterpump is driven off the timing belt, and its kinda a pita.
on the 22re, its all easy, go head and do it yourself.
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92 ExtraCab on 38s: built for go, not for show
88 4runner: Solid axle, doubler, fun stuff
IG: rattlewagon
Its all about the parts you break, and the friends you make.
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12-21-2020, 08:45 PM
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#3
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Sorry, not aware member responded to question?
I found a few online video's on the subject and they were very helpful so decide to try a 'do it myself'.
Presenting issues:
1) While removing components it became apparent the fan bearing seized and the fan could not not rotate and most likely problem; however, my dilemma is now that I have removed a majority of the components and now down to a few screws, whether it would be best to replace the pump and timing belt now as oppose to possibly later??
2) Setting TDC, my understanding it TCD is set at the end of the compression stroke however in rotating the damper and cam 180 or 360 degrees the timing marks always aligned to the designated marks, not sure how to determine absolute timing??
Suggestions/comments appreciated!!
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Dave
'The problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when you are done'
1990 T4r, SR5, Auto, 4X4
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12-22-2020, 11:02 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northfield, VT
Posts: 3,616
Real Name: Caleb
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northfield, VT
Posts: 3,616
Real Name: Caleb
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I gather from your answer that you have the 3.0. Any idea on how many miles on the current timing belt? Hows it look? Im usually a "dont fix it if its not broken" kinda guy. I would just change the fan bracket and keep on truckin.
When the number 1 spark plug is at the top of its cycle at the beginning of the 1st stroke, that is top dead center (0* timing) Turn the engine over by hand and Use a screwdriver in the spark plug hole to feel when the piston comes up, and when it starts to fall, be careful not to damage anything.
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92 ExtraCab on 38s: built for go, not for show
88 4runner: Solid axle, doubler, fun stuff
IG: rattlewagon
Its all about the parts you break, and the friends you make.
Last edited by Hyde802; 12-23-2020 at 08:10 AM.
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01-25-2021, 05:07 PM
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#5
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, Ca.
Posts: 260
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Yes, the part I ordered was incorrect, correct shape but around 18" short, decided to keep it since the cost of shipping is more than the cost of the part; therein, I will contact local Toyota dealership and if within reason purchase locally.
Reassembled and with minor adjustment started up and so far is running fine?
Question: PS pulley is slightly off and not aligned with the pulley on the fan pulley assembly. It it possible to loosen a bolt or two and shift the pump steering pump forward/towards the radiator slightly?
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Dave
'The problem with engaging in useless activity is never knowing when you are done'
1990 T4r, SR5, Auto, 4X4
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01-28-2021, 12:51 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
Posts: 8
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: PNW
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First thing I would do if no visible leaks is grab a long screw driver or some all thread. Place it on each accessory component while it’s running and then use a thin piece of metal ie, sheet metal, skid plate etc to to rest on the shank. You will hear which component is making the noise as it will be amplified through the sheet metal/skid plate etc., since you are already that far torn down I would just replace everything on the way back out.
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