Aloha guys, I am doing a clutch job on my 1994 4Runner 4x4 22RE

I've got the tranny out and was at the last step before reassembly but ran into an issue pulling the rear main seal and the housing got damaged so I'm stuck searching for a replacement on island or waiting for one to ship. Basically it looks like the original RMS with 215,000 miles on it and it was so glued together that I damaged the housing/retainer trying to get it out.

The question I have though is actually about the oil pan. Mine has seen better days and I'm certain that it's leaking a little at least. From the position I'm in under the truck with the tranny out it looks like I could drain and drop it pretty easily. I want to clean it out, check out the lower end, maybe repaint the bottom and then reseal it and attach. Worst case scenario I'll get a replacement one. Everything I've read has pointed to just using Permatex grey gasket maker to seal it and not using an aftermarket cork or some other material gasket. Is this right?

So basically is this the best time to pull the oil pan? I may have to replace it if it's rusting through or something, and is it best to just use the Permatex Grey gasket maker to seal it up when replacing? Also are there any walkthroughs or anything I should know about when I get it going?

Mahalo!

​​​​​​​Max

I'm also wondering how to inspect the lower end of the engine for damage and anything that might need replacing? Might as well while I'm down there with the oil pan off!

Thank You!

If you pull the oil pan, use FIPG or RTV to reseal it, no gasket. Many have used the grey RTV that you mentioned, I used Permatex black RTV. Make sure each surface is clean before applying.

Thanks guys, I know everyone says you have to pull the front diff, but at least from my angle, behind the motor with transmission out, it looks like it could just drop and slide right back towards me ;)

I'll get back down there today, not in a rush as I'm feeling beat from wrastling the bear of a tranny and rear transfer case out, not to mention I couldn't get the front driveshaft off so there's another few pounds.

Well made some progress today, cleaned the tranny end out super dirty from fried clutch dust. It had been slipping for quite a while and the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder had rusted out causing it to really slip.

So the tranny end is all clean and new throw out bearing installed. Also cleaned the block end of the clutch dust and installed the new pilot bearing. I did my belts while I was working on the truck today, gotta say it felt like nothing after pulling the tranny and clutch.

You guys were spot on though, there is no way to get that oil pan out with the front diff in. Except maybe If I can pull the metal tube that drops into the pan. Gonna get a closer look tomorrow as it was well past dark when I called it quits.

Just waiting on the new rear main seal housing. Should have the oil pan dropped and cleaned up and reinstalled tomorrow, then just a couple little things while I wait on the new part

So my hope is, after hours of research, that with the transmission out. If I just unbolt the three front diff mounts that sucker will rotate down and out. As it is the pan is free and I only need an inch or so to slide it free. Let’s see how that goes!

Well good news, got the oil pan out by dropping the front diff mounts and just loosening the front. More on that later.

bad news it’s pretty rusty, so scrubbing it clean treating rust then prime and paint.

other not so good news. I think I found the timing chain guide from the original. It’s in pieces in oil pan I’m about 90% sure the one in the motor is still there but now have to pull valve cover and double check. Yay i wanted to adjust valves anyway hahaha.

I’ll add pics as i go




Hopefully this is the original timing chain guide that disintegrated and caused the previous owner to have the chain and guide replaced.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...462c919be.jpeg


It has 22R printed on it and is dark brown so thinking it might be stock original.

If I remember right the one in there is light grey, plastic, shit I know! but I'm not going to fix what ain't broke right now, too much going on as it is.

Well good news again today! Pulled the valve cover and the timing chain guide is fully intact and looks in great condition. Plastic yes, but still looks fresh and happy as does the chain. I adjusted the valves to spec and put it all back together.

The oil pan got it's top coat and clear coat and will be curing till tomorrow when I do the install.

I'm debating whether to bolt the front diff back into it's mounts after watching this video. Guy found a pretty simple way to get the oil pan, better than anything I've seen yet!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFB9...nnel=donvillo1

Should be installing the oil pan this afternoon. Unfortunately I can't start the motor until Monday at the earliest to check for leaks because the trans and starter are out of the truck while doing the clutch....

I think FSM says 9 ft lb torque for the oil pan bolts is that correct?

and 18 for the drain plug?

One of the oil pan bolts was on it's way out and unfortunately sheared off when snugging up. I feel like it will be ok and won't leak with all the sealant on there. If it was in a corner or a gasket style then I'd definitely want to get the bolt out and put a freshy in.

Also broke my torque wrench on reassembling the frame so I'm kind two steps forward one step back, thankfully I can get a brand new one for free because it's a duralast from autozone. Really gonna need it for installing the new clutch.

Just in case anyone needs to drop the oil pan with the tranny out if you follow the method in the video you can keep your diff bolted to the cv axles and it will slide right in and out and you still have a fair bit of room to work. I just put a clean rag on top of the diff and kept from scratching up the pan. Pre loaded the holes in the block and block surface and then did the pan and other than that one bolt everything went smoothly.

Just make sure you put everything back in the same order. I found out the hard way that if you bolt the crossmember back up you're not gonna be able to get the diff in!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.yot...89af28a4a.jpeg

Looking pretty good down here! The rear main seal retainer/housing came in from yotashop today about 6:45pm and I went ahead and installed so the Permatex could cure up over night and I could put oil back in the motor tomorrow.

Tomorrow will be the install! Hoping if I get a good start on it that it could be done tomorrow and I'll have my daily back in action. Flywheel, clutch, clutch cover, trans and slave cylinder. Starter. Drive shafts. Prime the slave and could be backing her out the shed!

As stated above, black permatex is good stuff. If you have a GM dealership near you, their engine sealant is second to none. I used it as a career tech there for years, and never had an issue. Sucks to have to do the timing chain, its not a bad job at all but a pain to do nonetheless. Good luck and hopefully you're making smooth progress.
It's -22 degrees where I live right now, field fixes and repairs inside an unheated garage is rather difficult

Wow that's intense! Yes everything is wrapped up and I'm back on the road. I've got a few projects in the next week or so.

Rather than try to post everything twice I'm gonna add the link to the rest of the project story on Yotatech.com

Clutch Swap and Oil pan question? - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

-38 now spring please come fast!
Glad to hear you're back on the road. I don't have an account on yotatech, but I will check out your writeup!