1990 22RE - Coolant in Oil - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

jay333 · 02-06-2021, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty904

This is probably not what you want to here but I was in a similar situation with similar mileage about 5 years ago when I got the exact same symptoms and it ended up being a head gasket failure and a warped head.

I ended up finding a reputable engine builder in my area (this is easier said than done) and purchased a rebuilt longblock for about $800. With some help from a couple buddies, I went ahead and swapped the engine, clutch and a couple other components. It was a weekends worth of work definitely made easier by my friend's engine hoist and two post lift. The overall cost was not too dissimilar from replacing the head. I ended up putting about $2000 into it including a few performance indulgences.

It has run like a top since (knock on wood) including a few years as a daily. To me it was worth it because the body was super clean and rust free and I knew I wanted to keep it for a while. Not everyone is lucky enough to have experienced mechanic buddies with nice facilities to help you out but my point is with that kind of mileage it might be worth a full rebuild or swap if the rest of the truck is nice enough. You are talking about a pretty high cost repair either way.

Thank you for your response. Very much appreciated. I'm no expert but today I popped the valve cover and could clearly see that the chain has been doing a number on the side of timing cover. I hope this is what has caused the water mixing with oil problem although I'm not totally understanding how that works. Nevertheless I have started the process of getting that timing cover off.

Hyde802 · 02-08-2021, 08:45 AM

Nicely done!

Have you seen this page? 4crawler does a nice job laying it all out. I know your not changing the chain, but he has good instructions on taking the cover off.

22R/RE/REC/RET Timing Chain Replacement Instructions

This makes it a bigger project, but most likely if the guides broke, the pieces are down in your oil pan. Pilling the pan in an IFS truck is a PITA but would be a good idea to get the pieces out.

jay333 · 02-09-2021, 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hyde802

Nicely done!

Have you seen this page? 4crawler does a nice job laying it all out. I know your not changing the chain, but he has good instructions on taking the cover off.

22R/RE/REC/RET Timing Chain Replacement Instructions

This makes it a bigger project, but most likely if the guides broke, the pieces are down in your oil pan. Pilling the pan in an IFS truck is a PITA but would be a good idea to get the pieces out.

Thanks. Yes, I did see that page and is in fact the main instruction I am following. I will replace the chain, guides, gears, cover as well as water/oil pumps - figure I may as well if I have it all apart. I haven't gotten back to it but hope to get working on it again tomorrow. One thing I am not sure about - the instructions (as well as most of the videos I have seen) tell you to put the engine at TDC prior to removing distributor and working with the chain. Based on what I have seen in the videos TDC is when crank set at "0". However, I saw somewhere that for my engine (the 22RE) you should use the "5" mark as opposed to the "0" (at least when removing distributor). Actually, the 4crawler instruction just suggests setting the cam gear mark at 12:00 for when you remove distributer - I wonder if that amounts to the same as setting the crank at "5". Also, the 4crawler instruction later says to set the crank to "0" at step 19 before doing think like removing gears/chains etc. Should I be setting it at "5" at this step (or is the "5" setting only related to when I remove distributor)?

Hyde802 · 02-11-2021, 12:03 PM

I would set it at 0.

alabamatoy · 02-12-2021, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay333

I will replace the chain, guides, gears, cover as well as water/oil pumps

Also replace the front main crankshaft seal.

jay333 · 02-12-2021, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabamatoy

Also replace the front main crankshaft seal.

I believe that is part of the oil pump replacement? I do plan on replacing that. I assume the new oil pump typically comes with new seal? Regardless though I have heard that it is a good idea to put on a new particular seal from Toyota that is sized differently (in thickness) so that the seal will sit differently than the original one did thereby stopping oil leakage.

LadybugES · 03-03-2021, 09:34 AM

Had a blown head gasket a little over a year ago. Lucky I had no head warp, did all the work myself (small muscle help here and there and had the head machined clean/smooth before reinstall). If you feel confident enough to start pulling stuff, im sure you can get it done. I personally recommend purchasing a factory manual, it will cost a little $$ but the information was exactly what I needed when certain videos or unstruction didn't quite make sense. Has all your torque specs and good diagrams. Granted I somehow never saw this website which probably would have made things quite a bit easier. I also purchased all metal guides to avoid another guide break, and recommend taking tons of your own before photos for referance. Bungee cord made life so much easier to keep the chain in place between processes. I also found that labeling helps if you are doing this over a period of time. Sharpie (the brand, makes oil based markers now) i used these in several colors to keep track of specific groups of parts. Labeling even the page numbers in my manual for install on the parts baggies. Good luck!

Site Navigation