Some more progress to report on

This time I went to my local junkyard and found a 95 with a gray interior.

Parts bought:
- Passenger door handle in gray, with rod clip
- Passenger door armrest in gray, good condition
- Dashboard hardware
- Cluster green bulbs #194 and #74
- Small plastic pocket under radio in gray
- Driver side dash vent assembly

Also found some other parts for my 89 pickup.

The 92-95 electronic VSS cluster as it currently is, as shown previously:





The green bulbs are a big deal for me and there was no way the cluster was going in the truck without them.

Here are the bulbs removed from the 2nd gen at the yard. These are the three main #194 bulbs that light up the speedo and tach. Notice the green bases.




The #194 bulbs in the 2-door’s new cluster are not green, the bulbs have a black base. Maybe these came from some another Toyota since it doesn’t look like someone just swapped the bulbs and kept the original green bases. Never knew these clusters to come with anything other than green bulbs/bases.





Bulb comparison




Bulbs swapped




There are also 4 additional smaller green #74 bulbs to illuminate the side gauges. There are 2 per side.





Upon initial testing, one of the main 3 #194 bulbs and one of the side 4 #74 bulbs were each burnt out.





After removing the non-functional #74 side bulb, it was determined to have a broken filament. With enough time and patience, I was able to remove the original green sleeve from one of the side bulbs.




The bulb is the same size as found in the lower strip of indicators on the bottom of the cluster. This truck will never need the ECT PWR lamp. It was decided to harvest this bulb.

The ECT PWR bulb is in a black base with a clear bulb, no green cover. Here it is shown left:





ECT PWR bulb, now with green cover, installed into green base to be repurposed as new side bulb.




Next up was the burned out main #194 bulb. On closer inspection, it also had a bad filament. I grabbed the original DLX tach-less cluster left over from my 89 pickup. It also uses the same size #194 bulbs in green. I pulled one bulb and installed it in the center of the 2-door cluster.

Here is the first test. The left side is now illuminated properly with the old ECT PWR bulb. Unfortunately, the color of the center pickup bulb was noticeably different than the other 4Runner bulbs.



I debated removing the green sleeve from the pickup bulb, but decided it would be best to put it back into the original pickup cluster it was removed from and leave it be.

The only option, excluding new or finding another cluster to steal bulbs from, was to use one of the three clear #194 bulbs that came out of this cluster earlier.

They turned out to be OEM and of the same power/output specification as the other #194’s in the cluster.

With more time and patience, I removed the green sleeve from the burnt 4Runner cluster bulb and installed it onto one of the 3 clears.

Final test - we’ve got matching OEM green bulbs!



Next was to go through the remaining bulbs in the dash. The HVAC control panel green bulb was dead. The glovebox lamp was working, but not green. The ashtray bulb is both green and working.

For the HVAC control panel bulb, the wires come directly from the blower motor fan switch. Thankfully, I’ve got a few of those laying around, and one of them had a good functional bulb with a green sleeve already on it. The color was spot on since it was from the identical application. The old burnt bulb was set aside as it still had a green sleeve on it that could be used elsewhere.

The last #74 that needed attention was for the glovebox. No green sleeve and clearly has been replaced with a non-OEM unit. I swapped this bulb with another unused #74 cluster bulb, this time from A/T OIL TEMP.

Now that it had an OEM bulb, it just needed to be green. The burnt HVAC bulb had a good green sleeve still left on it, and made for the perfect solution.

Green bulbs are complete!

With all of the bulbs in the dash area sorted out, there was only one more lamp related issue with the interior. The dome lamp in the center of the cab was not working in the “DOOR” position. It was working well in the “ON” position.

I noticed the driver door switch was a bit intermittent. Sometimes the map lights would come on, and other times there’d be nothing. While I have several more door switches, curiosity came knocking. I grabbed the white plastic pin in the center of the switch and cycled it in and out, then rotated it back and forth a handful of times. Surprisingly, that seems to have worked, as the door switch is functioning normally now. Map lights come on every time. Cool!

So obviously, since the map lights at the base of the rear view mirror were working in the “DOOR” position, the door switch is excluded from being the culprit in the center dome light situation.

Pulled the dome light out and found out someone’s been into it before.



You’ll see there’s two metal prongs where the electrical plug connects. One of the prongs stretches across from the plug and riveted to the end of the bulb contact. All of the power going to the dome light is sourced from this one wire and flows through this one prong. The wire that connects to this prong is a constant 12V power source.

The other prong connects to the Door Switch circuit. More on that later.

Since the bulb lights up in the “ON” position, something must be wrong with the internal connections of the dome lamp assembly itself.

The constant power current flows through the prong and into the bulb contact, through the bulb and opposite contact, and then circles around to the the 4-contact selector switch.

The power source connects to the both center contacts of the switch. The two outer contacts go to different ground sources.

The dome selector switch is operated with a lever (what you use with your hand). The lever has a small metal ball at the inside end where it can complete a circuit between contacts.

Contact 1 - BODY GROUND (SCREW)
Contact 2 - 12V CONSTANT POWER
Contact 3 - 12V CONSTANT POWER
Contact 4 - DOOR SWITCH GROUND

When the dome selector switch is set to the “ON” position, the metal ball on the end of the lever touches Contact 1 and Contact 2. Contact 1 leads to the metal strap in the dome light assembly that receives direct body ground from the dome light mounting screws. With a direct route to ground, the dome bulb illuminates.

When the dome selector switch is set to the “OFF” position, the metal ball connects both matching center contacts, Contacts 2 and 3. Since both contacts are fed from the same power source, no ground connection is present. The circuit is not completed. Without a source of ground, the bulb does not illuminate.

When the dome selector switch is set to the “DOOR” position, the metal ball on the end of the lever touches Contact 3 and Contact 4. Contact 4 leads to the other prong in the main dome plug. The wire that connects to this prong provides ground ONLY when the door switch is extended (door is open). When the door switch is released, Contact 4 receives ground, bulb illuminates.

Whoever was in here tried to melt plastic around the metal prong for the plug into place after it was inexplicably popped out.




I connected a voltmeter to check for continuity and the circuit was broken where the prong is riveted at Contact 4.

Using a jumper wire, I connected Contact 4 to ground and the dome light illuminated. This riveted connection was no longer functioning.

I had a small diameter screw from a MK3 Supra gauge cluster face laying around. It just happened to be the perfect diameter to replace original rivet. I popped it in place and confirmed the dome was now working in the “DOOR” position.

The only issue with this was that I could not get a nut for the opposite end of the screw. I ended up melting a red aerosol can straw, jamming it over the end of the threads, where it hardened and became the perfect little threaded nut.

3.4L flywheel bolts



There’s been a shortage of AISIN clutches lately. I had no luck waiting for any of my typical distributors to get more units in stock.

I’m using a 3.4L flywheel, so the clutch kit required is the AISIN CKT-040. This uses a CTX-107 pressure plate and DTX-136 clutch disc.

I found a seller on eBay, clutchamerica, who apparently offers AISIN clutch kits, and claimed to have the CKT-040 in stock. Don’t know how, but I figured eBay would cover me if he was a liar.

I got the kit for $290 shipped. Here’s what I got. Box was opened and resealed. Inside, I found:

AISIN CTX-107 pressure plate
Random brand throwout bearing (garbage)
Random brand pilot bearing (garbage)




I had expected some non-sense with the bearings as the kit was advertised as having “HD bearings.” The seller buys AISIN clutch kits, takes the bearings from the kits, and then resells them separately online for more, all while replenishing the gutted AISIN kits with cheaper, off-brand bearings. Double dipping dishonesty.

Thankfully, the early R150F (pre-96) does not use the 3.4 throwout and I was planning to get a new 3.0 bearing anyway. The pilot bearing was cheap enough to just get new from Toyota.

I was willing to deal with all of the above, but there was one major flaw that could not be overlooked. This guy was pulling the same shady shit with clutch discs.

What a bunch of bullshit.





The seller’s listing specifies that the clutch disc included cross-references/interchanges with Toyota OEM part # 31250-35352-84. I have checked with Toyota and have confirmed that part # 31250-35352-84 is the correct clutch disc for 3.4L V6. Everything is checking out, on paper.

AISIN shows clutch kit # CKT-040 as containing clutch disc DTX-136. DTX-136 directly cross-references/interchanges with Toyota OEM part # 31250-35352-84.

But wait… what I received is a DTX-137 clutch disc.

The DTX-137 is not used in CKT-040, but it is instead used in AISIN kit # CKT-051, for the 3RZ-FE 2.7L. The AISIN DTX-137 clutch disc does not cross-reference/interchange with Toyota OEM part # 31250-35352-84 as the listing indicates.

The DTX-137 clutch disc label cross-references/interchanges to three Toyota OEM part numbers:
1. 31250-35311
2. 31250-35400
3. 31250-37160

I checked all three OEM part numbers on the AISIN label fitted to the DTX-137 clutch disc box. All three of the above part numbers are not interchangeable with 5VZ-FE. None of these three part numbers are specified in the seller’s listing.

While the DTX-137 may have similar diameters, splines, etc, the DTX-137 clutch disc is not interchangeable with DTX-136.

The seller denied having basically cobbled together a bunch of clutch kits with incorrect parts to make a quick buck on people, and was insistent that I was wrong and that the DTX-137 was correct for the V6.

As an eBay seller myself, I am sure he could tell I was in no position to mess around. I’ll get my money back and make him pay for shipping, too. He was caught bullshitting people.

Let’s just say that ClutchAmerica was prompt in sending me a return label for the disc.

Two days later, a DTX-136 showed up in the mail. Brand new in the AISIN box. Oh, the sweet taste of victory. An out of stock clutch and only at the expense of some bearings and eBay hassle.



Now I’m sure I don’t have to say this, but 3.4 clutch discs fit opposite of most Toyotas. The markings on the disc are incorrect. Here’s a diagram that shows the orientation of the 5VZ-FE clutch disc. Maybe the guy was having issues with people returning this kit due to this oversight by AISIN. Regardless, this is a documented issue, and this disc is indeed specified for the 5VZ-FE and is not just a 3RZ-FE disc like the other one he tried to pawn off on me. Bad practice from a seller. Beware of ClutchAmerica. Make sure they send you what they claim is in the box.

So I've been gathering some photos of 2-doors for my own personal collection. Google, forums, etc. Hard to find so I'm saving whatever is out there.
2-Door 2nd Gen 4Runners | Flickr



Ran across this thread from 2013:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1493308-post7.html

Apparently I called my future self out, 9 years ago.

Hey COB. I am uploading pics of my Gen 2, 2 Door. I read that you're collecting pics. My gal is a 1990 (built in Japan, in July of '89). I believe I'm the 4th owner. She has had some front end damage. Don't know if her motor was replaced. She has 523K on the clock, although the odom only shows 325K. The odom was replaced by the previous owner, as it was broken. I had the clutch replaced @ a Toyota stealership in '18. She was my daily driver for two years, without a single issue. She now own's our family garage. I drive her on occasion (once a week) and on ALL camping trips. Wife hates the fact, that I call her a "truck". I always ask, "What has 2 doors and a tailgate?", a TRUCK!

Kennedy Meadows,CA

Patches

Bitter Creek, CA

Fish Creek, CA

Attached Images

         

Never seen one of these before. Pretty cool

Pretty cool area for sure

These bulbs are the worst

I need to do the same.. not looking forward to it

If I find one for a 3.0 for a decent price, I'll do it for sure

Thanks for sharing. I have added your photos to the 2-door album.


View the whole album here: 2-Door 2nd Gen 4Runners | Flickr


560+ photos of 2nd gen 2-door 4Runners!





Thanks for your messages. The bulbs job isn't that bad. Satisfying to have lights all sorted!

Some previous owner pics found on Instagram:

[

Transmission tunnel install

I got a GoPro for Christmas, so here’s a video in addition to the photos:





And here are the video contents in picture form:

Clamped in place and ready to drill





Holes drilled. 1/8” rivets just sitting in place.







Another look without the rivets





Holes through body. Ready for seam sealer





Black SEM seam sealer. Rivets installed.







Transmission tunnel is done. Next will be a rear main seal, pilot bearing, flywheel, and clutch install.

Love those 2 doors


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Battery tender was not getting good connection. Turns out that the truck’s ground terminal was cracked, so it would not tighten well over the post. Cut it off and replaced it.








Cleaned up the rear mudguards.

Before, they both looked like this:



After:






Round 2 on the paint.

1. Meguiars 105 + red foam pad
2. Meguiars 105 + yellow foam pad
3. Meguiar’s Gold Class wax






Driver fender complete and waxed.





Compared with the hood, which was previously polished, but not waxed.




With hood and cowl completed with wax.





Left side of the truck done.









Halfway across the rear tailgate




Tailgate completed.










Roof halfway





And done… trying to stop the fading… yes the turbo truck has faded but she will get a paint job someday.

Took off the wheels to get a good look at the brakes. Turns out she’s only got S12+8’s in the front. On the list - 93-95 V6 calipers, discs, pads, etc.







Rears are also small, 7/8” cylinders. Shoes seem to have some good miles left on them.







After a little brake clean.





Painted drum black.







Took these from one of my other rigs. These are FJ Trail Teams black 16” rims. Friend of mine recently got new tires, he gifted me his old set. Just had them mounted, Yokohama Geolandar M/T’s.













Installed clutch line in OEM position.

Some new parts.

Hood prop clip.












Rear main seal for 3.0 #90311-A0027




FIPG, oil strainer gasket, and two screws for the passenger reclining handle





New motor mounts




Rear main seal removed.




Front diff dropped, oil pan out.












More progress coming later, including completed oil pan and rear main.

Love the color. Please tell me you replaced that crusty brake master cylinder

Not yet, but I have a new AISIN 1" master in the box plus all the 93+ V6 upgrade parts still to throw at it.