So I'm that guy. I got sucked up into the maelstrom of Bringatrailer.com, and found a very pretty '86 Turbo 5-speed 4Runner I didn't want to walk away from. I grossly overpaid for a grossly oversold truck that needed a metric s-ton of work.

So other than paint, and seats, my 4Runner needs about everything. All running gear is original, so the shocks barfed 50,000 miles ago, the rear sags lie a grandma's behind, the interior is ROUGH. Its an SR5 with inclinometer, power door locks, and power windows. I got the passenger window all the way up ahead of the rain (now snow), but now the passenger door light stays on continuously.

After talking to the only suspension shop that would talk to me in the area, they want $5k to redo front and rear suspension, and rebuild of the steering. Its been an interesting cross-reference based process finding the correct parts. Its snowing out, so I can't look under the truck to confirm the number of shackles I need for the rear. I can see that the front mount to a frame-mounted point. Do I need just one replacement shackle for the rear of each leaf spring?

I am looking for guidance on replacing the clapped weatherstripping on the doors and rear window. I purchased weather stripping from Toyota, but its clearly for the wing-window equipped 4Runners, not the full window SR5 version. Any guidance is appreciated.

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Not sure how you spend $5K upgrading the suspension unless you're putting Kings all around. You should be able to that work for less than a 3rd of that amount I would think. Don't farm out the easy stuff.
If UCA and LCA needed too, then probably $2K for suspension if you do yourself.

I concur. It seemed a ridiculous price for something not terribly complicated. I just purchased the parts for the rear, so will install rear, and start picking up the parts for the front. I'm planning on taking it to the local Army base auto shop to utilize a lift to get it installed.

I do plan on replacing the control arms, unless I feel I can just replace the bushings. Unclear if the auto shop has a press at this point. That'll be next weeks research.

There's tons of aftermarket suspensions available from numerous vendors.
If you want a mild lift with a great ride, Old Man Emu might still have their's available.
Replacement leaf spring packs for the rea r, new t-bars for the front. New shocks all around, and you've got a sweet set up.

If you can install it yourself, you'd save more $$.

Parts ordered. Anxiously waiting for delivery. Threw a link to the gf (unamused at all this antique bs) for a bumping stereo for the new whip.

Right now, focused on getting the OME suspension sorted. Once that is dialed in, will work on the ignition that was stumbling and bumbling at idle just below freezing.

For anyone nugging through the adventure of restoring one of these gen1s, I found weatherstripping for the door windows (non-vented).

Fairchild Automotive makes a 4pc set of inner and outer window weather stripping for both wing window and non-wing window equipped gen1s.

Last night I ordered a set for my truck that are supposed to drop ship on 12/11. Just a moment...

I'll update on quality and fit when they arrive.

Engine stumbles over 1/2 throttle acceleration, then backfires on deceleration. I've done nothing but put in a clean air filter so far.

Any reason I should not purchase and install a set of cheap ($40 for all 4) fuel injectors?

Truck is a hobby at this point, and I'm planning on sending out the original injectors for cleaning, but at $40, am thinking why not swap injectors so theoretically the 4Runner isn't deadlined while the original injectors are cleaned.

I'd be very suspicious of $40 injectors. They may not work at all, or may just stream fuel into the cylinder unchecked. The old addage "you get what you pay for", there's a lot of junk/scams out there today.

I had an ‘88 with an ‘airflow meter’. It’s been 30 years, but that unit had a rotary gate or butterfly. That would bind a little, making the truck buck and stumble, and would severely limit acceleration and speed. I shot WD40 at the pivot points for that butterfly top and bottom, and after it worked in, the truck ran like new. So maybe this component is on yours too?

Update: Had a new stock 14.7 gal fuel tank, fuel pump, hanger, sending unit, and fuel filter installed. Tank was rusted bigly on the inside. The sending unit for the 14.7 gal tank hasn't been produced in decades. No aftermarket support. Tried bending a sending unit from a 17 gal tank.

The 17gal tank sending unit does not display a working fuel level. What it does do is throw the "low fuel" idiot light that was inop prior. When the tank had only 1-2gallons in it, it appeared to work. Once the new tank was full, it flashes empty. Unclear if I care to put in the effort to get a working fuel gauge, or just keep a stubby pencil handy.

Truck runs much better with the new fuel pump that was part of the install. Cold idle needs some work, and still getting a big puff of exhaust smoke on start up. Mech mentioned piston slap, but qualified it saying it was pretty common. I'll dig into the cold idle issue for now.

I replaced the drivers side headlight with cheapo LED. Pass side headlight ring is rusted on. PB Blaster rolled snake eyes. I found the entire headlight assembly (with enclosed headlights) for the 2nd gen worked great for replacing the passenger side headlight. The generic incandescent bulb provides better illumination while driving, so replacing the drivers side assembly tomorrow.

Truck ran great going out to dinner tonight. Still trying to find someone to install the suspension for a decent price, but after that, I'm going through all suspension/steering bushings.

Labor ain't cheap bud. Less than 1k if you're refreshing the suspension by yourself, ball joints and all.

Have you pulled the injectors and verified that they work? Sounds more like a timing issue, have you verified the distributor is clocked properly? What do your spark plugs look like?

When the tank, pump, filter etc were replaced, the mechanic checked out the rest of the fuel system while waiting for the tank to arrive. Injectors were fine. I asked several times about cleaning them. He described injector cleaning as a "wallet cleaning" and strongly suggested against it. I don't know what to think atm.

I've gapped replacement spark plugs, and just need to put them in. Truck drives night and day better with working pump and clean gas. Cold idle still needs work, but I'm hoping to attack that one myself.

Did you receive those weather seals? How'd they look?


I have an 87 turbo. Some years ago, it had an issue where startups took too many cranks and the cold idle was low and often stumbled enough to stall.



After a test using a voltmeter, it was apparent that the cold start injector thermo time switch (left side threaded sensor under intake) was out of spec.



I bought a Beck Arnley unit from RockAuto which luckily turned out to be a repackaged OEM part. The truck starts up instantly and idles up great.


Perhaps a quick check on that sensor could net some answers.


The poof of smoke on startup is characteristic of failed valve stem seals. Is it blue smoke?