[Zanz25]

So what is the deal with the electrical on these gen1s?

I managed to find a passenger window actuator, and noticed that while the window moves in a northern direction, its abysmally slow. Same for the other windows. I know my 'new car' bias is at work here, but what gives? Weak alternator output? The ancient battery currently installed cranks normally and it starts quickly.

Who's got an approach for enhancing this? I saw someone sells a GM alternator rigged to fit the gen1, but I'm more of a measure three times/cut once guy, so wanted to see if my impression was off, my truck is kaput, or I just missed a sweet mod-build. I don't want to get knee deep into my resto-mod visions if I can't get enough power to turn the stereo on.

Thanks!

[3ToyGuy]

Before hitting the parts cannon, some testing may be in order. This is a perfect time for the use of a multimeter.

Is the voltage on the motor leads of the window actuator low? Is the battery voltage low with the engine NOT running? Is the output voltage of the alternator low with the engine at idle? What about when the RPMs are say 2000?
Are all the involved leads, from the battery to the actuator, in good shape? No corrosion, no corroded grounds, etc?

Maybe the actuators are just naturally slow? Is the replacement actuator you got NEW, or an old, used unit? Is the window regulator properly lubricated?

Can you compare to another vehicle of similar age and mileage? Does such a vehicle, if you can find one, operate similarly? Does the owner have any complaints about slow operation?

My 87's both had (have) manual windows, so I can't compare for you, but all of the above are things you can check without resorting to just throwing parts at it and hoping for the best. The ease of starting seems to indicate good battery, and thus, a good alternator to keep it charged, but a good load test will reveal much about a battery.
Most auto parts stores can load check a battery, and check the alternator for correct operation. All free at most stores.

Good luck, and let us know how things work out for you.
Pat☺

[Zanz25]

Originally Posted by 3ToyGuy

Before hitting the parts cannon, some testing may be in order. This is a perfect time for the use of a multimeter.

Is the voltage on the motor leads of the window actuator low? Is the battery voltage low with the engine NOT running? Is the output voltage of the alternator low with the engine at idle? What about when the RPMs are say 2000?
Are all the involved leads, from the battery to the actuator, in good shape? No corrosion, no corroded grounds, etc?

Maybe the actuators are just naturally slow? Is the replacement actuator you got NEW, or an old, used unit? Is the window regulator properly lubricated?

Can you compare to another vehicle of similar age and mileage? Does such a vehicle, if you can find one, operate similarly? Does the owner have any complaints about slow operation?

My 87's both had (have) manual windows, so I can't compare for you, but all of the above are things you can check without resorting to just throwing parts at it and hoping for the best. The ease of starting seems to indicate good battery, and thus, a good alternator to keep it charged, but a good load test will reveal much about a battery.
Most auto parts stores can load check a battery, and check the alternator for correct operation. All free at most stores.

Good luck, and let us know how things work out for you.
Pat☺

Thanks. This online purchase really put me in a funk on arrival. Needs way, way more work than was indicated. I've gotten out of the funk, and have steeled myself for a long process in bringing it back. Not having a lighted garage to work on it has made it hard to get motivated to work by flashlight in the drive way.

Reality is that I need to be happy that I was able to get all the windows moving north and south on demand, and focus energy on correcting deficiencies vice fiddling with improvements. I have the FSM, and IIRC, the wiring guide, so when the suspension isn't riding on bump stops, the engine doesn't stumble on accelleration and backfire on decelleration, the AC works, windows don't leak, etc, I'll spend some quality time with the multimeter getting an understanding of the electrical health of the system.