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ROFLMAO.

That's a good one, you made my day

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The cheapest way to lift the front is balljoint spacers. The biggest is 1.5" IIRC. After that your going to need one of the more expensive lifts from one of the big box companies. Some people will tell you to crank your t-bars, but that's more problems.
A body lift will will get you a little more clearance too. After doing that you can fit 33-34" tires. BTW, that's about the biggest you want to go with IFS unless your building a mall crawler.

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You should check prices for Old Man Emu rear springs, they are a very good spring and I paid $100 each (for 2" lift).

I would forget about that kit and and go with ball joint spacers Front Ball Joint Spacer Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits You can get beefier torsion bars to crank on also, supposedly they don't have the same problems when you crank on them vs. the stock bars. I do not know this from personal experience though, just word of mouth.

and if you need more, get a small body lift.

Also, I agree with fourwd1 on not going with 36" tires, you are asking for major problems with a stock IFS, not to mention the fact that you will need to replace your gearing and feel like you just lost half of your horsepower.

Edit: I can't find any OME rear leafs over 2.5" lift..if they exist they are well worth getting.

Yes, OME suspension kits are the best there is for ride and handling and a modest lift. They don't make a lift kit over 2.5-3" for any vehicle for a very good reason.

I disagree with the other responders here...I believe they will fit.

Problem is that the body will be resting on the tires once you let it down off the floor jack.

I'm putting 33X13.50X15 tires on 12 inch rims tomorrow...also putting on a 5" lift, ball joints, all tie rod ends, pitman/idler arms. I should be good and dirty by the end of the weekend.

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I just bought a complete 5" Rough Country suspension lift for $700...including shipping. Check out E-Bay...they come with all the springs, shocks, brake lines, drop arms etc etc.

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im running 35x12.50s with nothing but blocks on the back and the torsion bar cranked. about to get some keys to even out the camber

Get a lift kit, dont crank your T bars. Theres no reason to modify your cool rig unless it is to improve function. Cranking your t bars takes away from functionality which
in my opinion is the opposite direction of cool. But, my man is right if your just cruising the mall, who cares.

From San Diego Off Road Innovations LLC

Torsion Bar Adjusting and the Affects Thereof

To summarize the difference from the vehicle driver perspective between 1.5" of ball joint spacer lift and 1.5" of torsion bar adjustment lift one could say that ball joint spacers make for a smoother on road ride with more off-road suspension flex and corresponding capability.

To understand why this is, it is first helpful to understand why it is the vehicle ride becomes harsher the higher one lifts the vehicle via torsion adjusting. The first reason relates to down travel and is very straight forward while the second, relating to the effective radius, is less so.

Down travel: You need it

Quite simply, when one of your wheels encounters a depression in the road such as a pothole, one of two, or a combination of these two things are going to happen. The truck’s wheel will enter the hole while the chassis remains relatively settled. Or, the truck will fall into the hole which will unsettle and jar the chassis (and occupants). For the wheel to travel downwards there must be sufficient down travel to do so. When you adjust your torsion bars for lift, you sacrifice down travel for up-travel. You can absorb a larger bump but if you encounter a pothole type of depression, the vehicle falls into the hole with the front wheel often impacting the upside on its way through. This is very hard on the vehicle and occupants. The results are a poor on road ride.