hey i managed to change the plugs and wires cap and rotor on this 95 3.0 by myself. engine had thrown code of dead cylinder. well maybe cause it had no plug wire connected on the toughest plug to get access too. also had bad knock sensor code but i have not got to that due to cost of sensor and im hoping its wiring like was said on forum or if indeed bad knock sensor i can grab a used one from the bone yard i found

whomever said you will be well bruised after the plug swap was right but i also found a loose hose from the very top of the charcoal canister. there are 2 and this one is closest to firewall.

can somebody please advise me where this hose needs to be reattached??

thanks johnny

Jonny,

Your hood should have a vacuum diagram label showing it unless it's been removed.

Mine is a 91 and I'm not sure if it is the same. I'll go look at it and tell ya here in a bit where mine goes.

You do know where the knock sensor is located, right? It's under the lower intake manifold, meaning you will have to remove your timing belt, upper intake plenum and lower intake to get to it. If You thought spark plugs were hard then you have no idea what's in store for you if you have to replace the knock sensor.


Bryan

thank you for the reply , well i changed the plugs (badly dry oil fouled) a mix of denso's and something and very old , new wires , new cap , button , reattached 2 dangling lines i could tell where they were from. cleaned the afm added new air filter. it ran well for about 5 minutes then check engine came back and it acts like its running on about 3 or 4.

i think its running worse so now ill change the fuel filter. dunno what code it is now until my brother gets back with his verus reader.

i did get intake set and timing belt along with the costly little knock sensor. if i do all this i should go ahead and do the head gaskets yes?

first off i had i better run comp. test, im new to this and have no other option than repair it
not easy on the blind guy lol

i do appreciate your reply and guidance. i see the routing chart now. we humans fail to look up hahaha

this plumbing diagram shows only one line exiting and says it goes to tvv

the second line is indeed plumbed and goes into a steel line heading to the rear (im guessing fuel vapor vent?

this line im trying to rehook had a broken off piece of blue plastic inside it but i sure dont see any port for it on tvv either or anywhere else. even in the knot of vaccuum lines to the front of the charcoal can

im confozzled now

this truck is running so fat its blowing black fuel smoke now. so im also guessing bad or dirty injectors , prolly both

i have 1500 in this truck so far so thats not bad i guess. my gal pal adores it already so i hope i can get it going and not invest a 3rd world debt

im also pretty sure you can throw many dollars in parts at it and never get near the problem.

i did find out last trip underneath the cat is gone and it has some turbo type muffler and new pipe , i bet the ecm is confused as i am

might be time for a real mech and his pc interface...

Some pics would help to figure it out.

i now have an excuse to get me a digital camera. can anyone suggest a bargain entry level camera that will still take those closeup shots like our forum brother took of the fuel filter how-to?


oh and nowhere on forum can i find a reference to a "tvv" nor is it in my haynes manual
tis yet another anti polution hoodoo gadget i do suppose

I know where that first vacuum line goes if you want to know.
The broken blue piece is part of a sensor (which name I am still trying to locate) located on the back top of the engine block, tucked under or nearly under the air intake. There is a small blue sensor that has two prongs sticking out that take vacuum tubes. One goes to the Vapor Canister (the one your intrested in) and the other connects to a vacuum tube mounted on the top of the air intake where the incoming air connects to the engine air intake.