I had fault code # 14 come up which is igniter signal to ECU missing. What does that mean and what can I do to fix it. Thanks for the help.

on your dizzy there is a ignitor just replace or rebuild your dizzy and youll be fine.

If you dont want to fully rebuild your distributor you might be able to find just the ingitor its a small black rectangle piece on the distributor with a plug attachment.

I would suggest you replace your plugs, cap, and rotor and wires if need be. this will not only help the mpg but might also be part of the problem.

Thanks for the info. I did not know I could rebuild the igniter. Is it simple or just as easy to replace?

o no no no, what i am saying is if you have to install the new ignitor you should just rebuild the distributor while your at it, or just buy a hole new distributor.
the ingnitor is located inside the distributor and cannot be rebuilt.

Sorry, misunderstood, thanks again for the help! I'll probably put all new in.

Hi, TR4 community:

I drive a 95 runner v6 A/T 2wd base model. It runs and idles fine except when stopped and in gear at the same time. It trembles.

It started with code 71 EGR. I cleaned out the EGR and code disappeared.

The trembling condition continued and displayed a code code 25 which is a lean mixture condition. I then replaced the PCV and its ruptured hose, replaced the Fuel Filter, Inspected all other vaccum hoses, cleaned out the MAF and ruined it when decided to unscrew the connector terminal and pulled a little to look inside, turned out to be that I inadvertently ripped apart soldered pins resulting in unsuccesful repair after resoldering because it would start but die a couple of seconds afterward; therefore I ended up purchasing a new MAF from Autozone.

Once MAF replaced, it went back to original description of symptoms and malfunction code 25 plus 14 this time around which leads to ignition problems, but the plugs, wires, caps and rotor were also recently replaced as part of the corrective measure to counteract the trembling condition which actually worsens after it warms up and on either reverse or drive gear.

Does anybody wthin the TR4 community know from what source may I purchase the ignitor / distributor repair kit.

And if any other clues as to what may be causing the described condition and possible solution tips can provided will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Harry

no rebuild kit, if i remeber right you cant rebuild the ignitor its pressure sealed.

they are cheap, RockAuto Auto Parts

No, that is not correct.

The ignitor is mounted on the outside of the coil.

It is not inside the distributor.

When you say they're cheap. Do you mean the distributor or the ignitor itself?

Because I checked rockauto and the ignitor does not show under the ignition parts list at all.

Weather it's cheap or not, there isn't much of a choice but to tackle the problem in the right sense of direction to avoid budget constraints.

It appears to be that the ignitor may either be inside the coil or is any of the other components close to it such as a small black square box aprox. 1/2" or less attached to the coil bracket bolted to the wheel well w/ 1 gray lead to ground and the other to a red wire. The other component I believe is the ignition coil module which is attached within the same coil bracket back to back.

Yesterday out of curiosity, I pulled the distributor cap just to inspect it and the noticed that the center spring loaded retractable pin which contacts the rotor was broken like it had been bent.

I replaced it, reset the memory, drove it for a few hours, the CEL hasn't come on any further so far and niether codes 14nor 25 have displayed; however, it continues to tremble some while in gear w/ brakes applied at stop.

The RPM is as follows:

Cold:

P or N = 1100

R or D= 900


Warm:

P or N= 900

R or D= 650