Hey guys, i'm new here 👋 I don't even know if I should be posting this in this thread but if anyone has any ideas i'd greatly appreciate it!

So I recently purchased a 91 4runner and the brakes worked fine. But during the 3ish weeks it was parked the rear brakes stopped working. The front brakes work great but the back shoes put little to no pressure on the drums. I've put new shoes in and new wheel cylinders plus adjustable the brake pedal and bleed the brakes and it helped but they're still not working 100%. The drums seem fine, next i might try replacing the master cylinder. I don't think it's anything to do with the brake booster as none of the symptoms match (pedal went soft not hard, and the rpms don't change when applying brakes) plus the front ones still work perfect. Also there's no leaks anywhere, apart from the master cylinder i've pretty much done everything it could be, just wondering if anyone has any other ideas? Thanks guys!

I'm new here to 4Runners and the forum but I seem to recall reading about the sensor on the rear axle needing to read level or therear brakes don't apply when they should. Again, I'm new sooo.


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New here and first forum I've used sorry if I'm doing it wrong ........I'm having an issue with my 91 3vze v6 when it's cold or not been driven in a few hours it will sometimes feel as if the drive ratio is wrong ie. 6,000 rpm doing 60 km/h then it will whilst driving slip back to correct ratio I'm thinking maybe transfer case or vacuum lines please help me fix my baby


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It won't shift into overdrive until it knows the trans temp has come up. If it's taking longer than it should, you could have an issue with the trans temp sender.

Hi guys,

I'm hoping you can assist me identify the name of this part which I need to replace. I have been unable to obtain the spare part as no one can tell me what its called!

Its part of the hydraulic clutch system. The fluid from the master cylinder through this part then to the slave cylinder. It sits on the right side of the engine bay. Virtually the same spot as the master cylinder but on the right side of the engine bay (as opposed to the left side where the master cylinder sits)

Vehicle - 1990 Toyota 4Runner
Engine - 2.8L Diesel

Thanks guys. Appreciate your help.

Mike.

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Thanks

My question is what is the connector next to the relay labeled "B"? To the left and up at little. Looks like a 3pin.... 94 v6 4runner. Its located on the interior fuse/junction box. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post... All the diagrams dont have it labeled..

Hey guys i just bought this 1990 22re runner with 216k miles.
I'm the 3rd owner, the thing was super clean and seems to run well enough for me to barely pop the hood.

the other day i finally had some time to poke around under the hood and noticed the overflow reservoir for the rad was full to the brim with the car cool.
I popped the rad cap and realized the PO is running straight water?
then i checked out the rad which i hadn't done previously and noticed a TON of the fins are missing. like they disintegrated or something?

Also a translucent slime on the hose in the res.

Here are some photos of what I'm talking about.

Going to assume i need a new rad here... how pressing is this problem? and why would PO be running straight water? he seemed to be very mechanically inclined.

best place to get a new radiator for these 2nd gen 22re runners???

much love.

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ok I'm new here but you seem to know your stuff. I have a 95 sr5, starts great and all but there is no check engine light till I start to drive. My speedo dosent work atm, could the vss cause all this? the shift points are all off and its running rich but it power less? can you help? thanks

Great info, thanks! Just bought an '89 and the seat fix is something I need to do.

Hey everyone. It's probably a dumb question, but I had a bit of an oops in my runner and I'm wondering what this part here is. To be fair, my buddy who built his 1st gen has no clue what it's called. Any help is appreciated! Edit: Nvm. Part found and problem hopefully solved. Let's hope there's no surprises...

Please point me in the right direction.
I have a 93 4Runner v6 3.0l automatic. Front end is vacuum actuated.
Issue 1-

I swapped transmissions and transfer cases as a whole a while back. Tranny was the exact same, same shifter same plug, everything seems to shift, reverse lights work, I do have the o/d light flashing but I figure that isn't that big of a deal has never affected proformance, have drove this way for about 40,000km or so.
Alright so the problem lies with the transfer cases. I don't have the existing one anymore, and I can tell you there was a substantial difference, . The transfer case that was originally in the vehicle had a sliding shifter, push button on top and slide into 4wd, n, 4lo.
The new one that is in there has the mechanical shifter coming right out of transfer case and directly stick shifts into 4hi, n, 4lo.
My problem lies within being able to activate the 4wd.
Right now I pull transfer case into 4hi and there is nothing hooked up wiring wise to tell the vehicle to turn on the vacuum control system to lock in the front end.
Now there are 2 wires coming off transfer case behind the stick shifter that are not hooked up to anything as there is nothing on vehicle iharness in that area to plug into. There are also 2 wires from vehicle harness that are just sitting there not plugged into anywhere on current transmission or transfer case and I am only supposing one may be the 4wd switch. Though I have tried jumping them with key on to see if I could hear actuator kicking in with the jumping of wires. No prevail.
So my question is, does anyone know the easiest way to have 4wd? Do I just wire in a 12v switch to turn on the vaccuum valve that engages the 4wd fork in the front end?
Or do I try and hook the proper wires up together under vehicle so the transfer case is the switch like proper? If I was educated on what wires are used.
Suggestions on this issue is what I need the most.

Issue #2-
Rear brakes.
Right now I have none, they are plugged off at front end by passenger front tire. They are leaking from above the gas tank. Both ruptured at once. Right now I just use the front brakes (I should do a good burnout video) lol.
It is not a daily driver I use it to go out into the bush camping and now want to use it for hunting this year and keep the kids warm.
My question about the brakes is; out of the 2 lines that run along frame and the dissappear above fuel tank and the re appear by the rear end, which one ties into which one?
I mean along the frame they run side by side , so call them passenger and driver side brake lines. And then in the back end there is an upper and lower brake cylinder type hookup that they tie into, and without taking the tank down I would like to re-route new brake lines and get them hooked up to proper side of the vehicle.

No where have I been able to find out what I want to know on either issue.
I hope I have been informative enough for someone to give me an educated response. To find someone with knowledge on these things is hard enough, the Toyota dealership can't figure out why I want to fix this thing and told me to come in and buy a new one.
So I am hoping on some advice! Anything would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

1) 4wd is a 2 part system. First the transfer case engages a switch, which then grounds a relay and then also allows ground to flow to the front diff switch. The 4wd light will come on once the fork is activated internally as there is a switch on the front diff.

For bypassing, yes you can. The 2 vacuum valves are on the right firewall of my 95. Both get fed a constant ground and the relay switches which one receives power.



So one way would be to tap into each valves power line and run a toggle switch of your own to apply power to each one as you wish.

If it were me, I'd try and make it work like factory but it seems like you don't mind either way

2) the rear brakes should only have a single brake line that splits to each wheel after the flex hose. So I'm not sure what you're seeing. Again, my 95 has ABS and it still only has one rear brake line until it get to actual axle.

Post a pic and I'll see if I can help.

Good luck

Just thought, you should be able to just unplug each one and switch them as well and then if the actuator and all that work it should be in 4wd.

Just re read the wiring diagram for 3.0 auto and it's pretty confusing

Thanks so much for the reply.
So what your saying is that by switching the 2 plugs vise versa should either put my actuator in normal (2wd) and then when I switch them it will be in 4wd? That would be the easiest fix ever! That never even crossed my mind and I will give it a shot!
And ya both the brake lines go from master cylinder to passenger wheel well, and then go to a "T" type fitting, from there I have 2 lines that go to front brakes, one off either T. And then I have 2 lines that twin side by side along frame towards rear, then jog up over fuel tank (super corrosion) and then drop back down and go to separate "actuators?" you could say all this is hard piped in soft copper, which then goes from these final devices to the rear brakes. Idk why so complicated of a braking system.