Wayback Machine
I found this super helpful when having to test Manu issues to trace it back to one with my windows, you have to download one file then can open it up into a list of things to repair, and wiring diagrams, all the fancy stuff.

I really appreciate this thread. Lots of great information for my new to me non-running 95.

Is there any chance I could get you to send me a copy of your 1990 4runner service manual that you've mrntmentione ordering through Toyota

My 95 3.0 RWD 4 Speed has a few issues that I feel are related. The trans has been having difficulty shifting into 4th. At first I just had to put some heat into the gear box and it would shift, but now it is a fight just to get into 4th. There is also an aweful squealing noise from what I can only assume is the trans. I tried topping off my ATF (dexos II) but that hasn't helped. I'm putting this here and reddit because it's my daily.

Hey guys new to the forum and the 4Runner world. I bought a used 1991 v6 and among the few issues I’ve had to fix the one that has given me the biggest problems is the ADD. I found one site that shows me how to lock it out (I’m assuming permanently) I’m just wondering if there’s a way to bypass using a cable lock or is it going to destroy my differential in all time 4wd? If there’s a thread for this already please point me in the right direction. Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EDIT: Here's the first three pages about ADD pulled from Toyota FSM for Gen 2 Runner, if you need more let me know. Didn't feel like posting pages upon pages right away. I can't help you with practical knowledge sadly (and happily) I haven't had to work through ADD issues.

Phil

Attached Images

     

I realize it's been a month but I don't see replies to your post so here's my minimal thoughts
Have you drained it completely and looked for metal particulate? See what condition the fluid itself is in and refill it with new fluid and see if it helps at all.

Anyone change rear drum brakes for calipers and rotors on a 2nd gen 4runner? If so how hard?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Needing help with someone or somebody out there who has found a solution where TE1 has been jumped to E! and getting a "Check Engine" light that is rapidly flashing!

The battery is new, distributor, plugs, spark plug wires, and rebuilt ECU have been replaced. Before going dead had periodic starting problems where the motor would not start. Had to turn off the ignition key and then it would start.

Any thoughts??? I'm totally baffled thinking could it be a bad starter causing the problems?? My only concern is the "Check Engine" light rapid flashing problems.....

Normal. Means you have no stored codes. What do you mean you had to turn off the ignition key and then it would start?

Hey all,

I dove into my 3vze after unsuccessfully trying to pull the crankcase ventilation valve. I got the valve out and everything back together but it doesn't run right. It doesn't want to start, when it does, it spits fuel out of the intake and smoke/fuel out of the exhaust. My initial thoughts were that I hooked some hoses into the wrong place, but it is very hard to find good documentation on how they should be hooked up.


Some other mechanically minded folks have recommended I test the fuel injectors (maybe they got knocked and stuck open while I was getting the intake manifold on/off) and also to check my MAF (volume air meter?). I did a little checking on the MAF, the resistance between the different pin combinations looks right. I have yet to try it while actuating the flapper.


Anyway, can anyone help me with some diagrams of how all the fuel/vacuum hoses should be hooked up? My Haynes manual has some info but it is limited.

I followed NorCal 4Runner's instructions and swapped the vacuum hoses. Now the 4 x 4 light stays on and the 4 x 4 works when it is selected and doesn't when it is diselected. Before there was just a click or two and the light flickered; no 4 x 4. Should I asume the machic accidental mixed them up? He left several vacuum hoses off and minor nuts and bolts here and there (no I won't be using him again).

95 4 Runner - bought (cheap) with blown head gasket the second time - supposedly only 150,000 total miles.

Another mechanic says I can expect #6 rod to spin a bearing to spin. Is this common?

Looking to buy a ‘95 4Runner, and it’s really nice and well taken care of...but the rear door and window don’t work... I’m in Cali, so 4Runner prices are inflated, but it’s still a decent price...is fixing the rear window and door expensive or difficult? Should I steer clear? Thanks!

Are you mean the tailgate door/window ,or reardoors it self?

Anyway, if it`s the rear door,you can check your window motor if it has the "stuck" noise by press on the window button down/up and listen to the engine to hear if it have 12v to it.. take of the screws,doorside by clips and opening-handle by pressing it to Right/left direction for take it off.....

you can replace it by screw out the 3 torx behind the mechanism,it is possible to get them out with a slim tool behind with a torx pipe..sorry im not sure on english what it names..



If you talking about the tailgate you can service it like this after you get the motor alive again or replace it:

YouTube

Try to force the window Down by hand include the motor if it is stuck, you problaby need to replace the motor after if you destroy the plastic teeth inside the motor by force it down....

Sorry if bad explained .

Nice! Good to have this. I was lucky and found a manual in the junkyard a month or two ago. Its in okay condition. Pages are all there.