Hi there, I'm new to T4R, I have a 1987 Turbo 4Runner for sale here in Boulder, Colorado.
It's a great Toy, but I'm moving to California and need funds, not a truck
I will be driving a moving truck out to Oakland in 2-3 weeks, so the possibility exists for me to tow/drive this 4Runner to locations along my route - Utah, Nevada, California -
if that's what it takes to sell it.
Right now it's at my house with a 'For Sale' sign in the window.
The interior (gray) is clean, and this week I need to wash and detail the exterior and take photos. I hope to post up pics later this week, in this same thread.
1987 4Runner Turbo, silver with black top.
(PM me for VIN)
22RT-E block, rebuilt with a Garret turbo and many other goodies.
5-speed manual transmission (changed out from original auto)
~170hp at rear wheels (dyno test)
Notes:
This is a really fun truck, in good condition for it's age, with plenty of power for a little 4-cylinder. I have not driven it much since I bought it, and only had it on dirt a handful of times, sadly. The truck, with it's cool motor build-up and all, is in my opinion waiting for the suspension upgrades to turn it into a trail monster.
Honestly it is all beyond my interest at this point, as I am moving to California, and I have a nascent custom bicycle frame business.
I would love to see it go to a home with someone who appreciates it's attributes and knows enough to tinker and fine-tune things to make it "perfect."
Based on the receipts I have, the engine rebuild and other extras (in or around 2000) included the following:
Pistons, rings, gaskets, bearings, exhaust manifold, and clutch set (all purchased from Diamond Star Specialties, San Luis Obispo, CA., in 1999-2000);
Timing chain and cover, adjustable cam gear, and OEM valve adjusters (purchased from LC Engineering, a Toyota 22R motor specialty manufacturer in Arizona);
Cylinders bored and honed; rods re-sized, bored, and bushed; flywheel ground and balanced; crank polished (Engine Dynamics, Templeton, Ca.);
New injectors and valves, rod bolts, catalytic converter, muffler, and radiator.
Toyota 5-speed manual transmission (according to VIN, it originally had the 4-speed Auto).
I have always used the OEM Toyota high-capacity oil filters, they are larger than the standard filter used on the 22RE [normally-aspirated] motor. The previous owner used K&N. Please note that Toyota discontinued the turbo model filter, and I now use the Landcruiser filter, as suggested by Boulder Toyota parts department. It is a similar, higher volume filter, but the profile is a bit taller so changing it out is a little tighter clearance than the original.
I purchased this truck in October, 2004 (~321,700mi.)
Odometer reads 336,230; as far as I learned from the previous owner, this is the correct mileage for the chassis and does not apply to the motor.
Motor mileage, post-rebuild, is unknown. I know there's at least 23,000 on it, based on receipts from the previous owner. He bought it in Lake Tahoe, California, from the gentleman who originally rebuilt the motor. If this is a major point of concern, I may be able to try and contact him.
I have always used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil.
Truck seems to run fine on any grade of fuel; I run premium every 3rd tank or so, regular or mid-grade otherwise. If I drove more, and/or had more money, I'd probably run premium all the time.
BG-44k fuel injection cleaner has been run through, about once a year, while I have owned it.
Mileage around 14-18mpg city/highway, depending on tires, tire pressure, load, etc. This at altitude here in Boulder area, around 5,000'.
~170hp at the wheels, ~200ft./lb. torque, as of dynamometer test in July 2004.
Re-painted in 2004 or early 2005 (Maaco, Boulder)
Tires are in pretty good shape, 31x10.50R15 purchased July 2004. More aggressive tires are available, right now they're sitting in my garage mounted on my FJ40 that hasn't been driven in a couple years.
Goodies, with date/mileage/installer noted if known:
Garret Turbo
Turbonetics DeltaGate adjustable wastegate (boost control)
GReddy adjustable Turbo Timer (allows the motor to idle after shutoff for an adjustable amount of time, so the oil can continue to cycle and cool the turbo down after hard driving such as mountain highways, towing, or trail)
Toyota 5-speed manual transmission
FlowMaster exhaust (2½" pipe from header back)
Dynaflow Turbo muffler
Rancho 9000 front shocks
DeutschTech rear shocks
8" Toyota 30-spline (from V6 Toyota) rear end (Aug. '04, 314,467mi., 4-Wheel Parts, Westminster, Co.)
Detroit TrueTrac limited slip differential (Aug. '04, 314,467mi., 4-Wheel Parts, Westminster, Co.)
K&N cone air filter
High-flow oil pump (LC Engineering, Az.)
Dash-pod gauges: turbo vacuum/boost, oil pressure (in place of OEM incline and side-angle gauges)
Aluminum wheels w/trail tires available, ~75% tread
Pioneer CD stereo, amp, etc.
Side windows tinted, extra tinted rear glass included
Radiator (Modine)
Recently replaced:
Brake master cylinder (2006)
Rear drums (Brembo heavy-duty) (2006)
Rear shoes (OEM – serviced at Longmont Toyota, 316,491mi., July '04)
Front brakes (rotors machined, pads replaced, 320,084mi.)
Front wheel bearings & seals, inner and outer, both sides (320,084mi.)
Headlights (2006)
Front ball joints, upper and lower both sides (2006)
Steering stabilizer (June '04, 314,467mi., 4-Wheel Parts, Westminster, Co.)
Starter (2009)
Interstate Megatron II battery (2009)
U-joints (July '04, 314,534mi., 4-Wheel Parts, Westminster, Co.)
Issues:
Sticks slightly going into 2nd and 3rd gears, especially in cold weather. Not bad, just something you notice if you've never driven it before. I put some BG additive in the trans a couple years ago, and it seemed to help very slightly in very cold weather.
Spare does not match other 4 wheels/tires; I have never lowered it either.
A/C does not work; likely leak somewhere, I have not charged/checked.
Starter relay (?) - I have had an intermittent no-start problem, and at this point I think it's either in the wiring (bad ground, loose connector) or possibly a funky starter relay. I originally replaced the starter contacts and thought it was fixed, then it happened again. So, I replaced the starter, again it seemed to be fixed, then it randomly recurred. That was about 5 months ago. I have not chased the wiring 100% yet, and have not recently checked the connection at the starter, nor tried another relay. Hopefully I'll get to that in the next week or so.
The problem is this - turn the key to on, everything's fine as normal, then turn it to start, all lights etc. seem as normal, relay can be heard clicking, but starter does not engage. Usually just trying it a few times will work, but sometimes you sit there and turn the key 20 times and nothing changes. At least it's a manual, so you're never stranded if you park on an incline...
It is possible to over-boost with the current setup...if you put the pedal down too aggressively, it seems like the turbo doesn't spool up fast enough, and sometimes the check-engine light will come on and the motor seems to cut out. Letting off the gas and coasting for 2-5 seconds gets things back to normal and the light goes out.
I have checked for stored codes after this has happened, and it came up with the boost pressure being too high (code 14? Can't remember if that is right). Given all the mods, I have always assumed it is a matter of fine-tuning things to fix this issue. I haven't bothered because I generally don't drive all that hard, and it only seems to happen when you really get on it. It has the Turbonetics adjustable wastegate, and that's where I would start.
When engine winds up over ~4400rpm (turbo engaged), it pings. I think this is again a matter of some fine-tuning, could be timing. Motor has an adjustable cam gear as well. I have not tried to address this, because I don't drive it aggressively and don't put it over 4400rpm.
Some rust on both rear fender/wheelwell edges; right side is worse.
Stock front bumper is missing plastic corner caps.
Steering column has slight vibration at one point in the rotation, due to slight rubbing against turbine body. Alarming noise/feeling in the steering wheel when you first notice it, but when you look at what's actually happening under the hood, it is very minor.
Annoyingly squeaky clutch pedal (sometimes it goes away).
Stained area of carpet behind driver seat (coffee??).
Keys are worn, sometimes finicky in activating rear window glass to open tailgate.
Dent in bottom of frame crossmember; the actual member is still straight.
Missing stock front skid plate.
Rear window defrost does not currently work because the wire is cut at the tailgate. I plan to fix it this week (properly, with solder and heat-shrink tube).
Plastic side trim on seats does not match – it's brown instead of gray.
Extras:
Toyota factory service manual (binding is falling apart and a few pages are oily but readable)
Tinted rear window glass (has vertical scratching mid-window from license plate bolts that were too long)
Driver window glass (has minor vertical scratching)
Spare front seats, SR5 type, driver and passenger; driver seatback release does not work, and bottom seat foam is broken down, passenger seat is in better shape and fully functional.
1 headlight (used, works)
Mobil 1 full-synthetic oil (3 Qts I think)
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I may find a few other parts once I dig around in the shop, like a rear window controller module, and regulator...
I will edit this post as needed in the next few days, to add any details I think of (though there shouldn't be many), and photos. FYI, I will also be posting this in other sites this week.
Thanks for looking!
[B]Mean begining for me.
Linear Mode
