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Old 10-14-2009, 12:02 AM #16
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i HATE STEALERSHIPS, they give off the worst vibes and the salesmen are the biggest scumsbags, i think i will stick to used cars.
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Old 10-21-2009, 01:58 PM #17
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Confessions of a Car Salesman

Tarry, I actually did some online "research" about the OneStop folks...unfortunately, all I saw was complaints. Sounds like they take your upfront, and then thats it. Would you pay a realtor up front to sell your home with no guarantee? I think not. Ill check out CarOffer...
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Old 06-15-2012, 01:30 AM #18
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Wow... I just read the entire thing. I had an idea of what goes on, but would have never guessed at the rest of it. A very informative read full of great advice. Two thumbs up!
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:59 AM #19
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I think this revival sets a record...Started in 2003 and last posted on in 2009 until today. Sad part is the buying experience and info discussed is actually still relevant...

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:45 PM #20
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Originally Posted by calikev View Post
I think this revival sets a record...Started in 2003 and last posted on in 2009 until today. Sad part is the buying experience and info discussed is actually still relevant...

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Saw a revival of an argument on tdiclub when the last post was from 1999, it was revived in like 2010 by the original poster. I laughed when i saw that a decade had past, weird to think that this post will still be visible long after i am gone.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:29 PM #21
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When I have bought cars at dealerships, new or used this is one thing I've done that has worked 100% every time. Once I finally get to the deal I want I will think about it for a while, look a little undecided and tell them, we'll, if you'd throw in xx accessory or xx upgrade ill take it. Things like expensive floor mats, kayak rack, front end cover, etc are good options. I told this to a couple friends one got a kayak rack for a subaru the other got an hid upgrade (dealer install) on a Volvo.

This has NEVER failed to get me free stuff, ever.

Edit: bump lol
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Tons of info on 4th gens for new and prospective buyers with links to the best topics.
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Old 01-22-2015, 01:07 PM #22
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Talking

I just bought a 2011 TE used (obviously) from a dealership -- it's the first negotiation I feel that I've "won" and have a few tips:

-Come with cash, not a car. Sell your old car on your own if you can. I sold mine through Craig's List and got more than $3,000 more for it than the dealership offered me. Blue Book is a good guide, but keep in mind that KBB, Edmonds and NADA will all come up with separate values. I priced my old car about $500 under KBB and that cut the negotiations short.

-Line up your own financing. Unless you're looking at a new vehicle at a dealership that can offer 0 to 0.9% financing, get a pre-approval from a bank first. I got pre-approved for a 1.49% rate from my credit union for an amount up to $5,000 more than I was planning to spend, so I knew I had wiggle room.

-Pairing the two together puts you in the driver's seat by taking away the variables dealerships will try to use. We then were negotiating solely on price, rather than price, rate, trade-in, etc. Eliminate as many moving parts as possible.

-Do your damn homework. I knew I wanted a Trail, but it was after tons of research (both on this forum and in general) that I came to that conclusion. Always Google the model you're looking at and "problems" together. Ask around. Figure out what features you want, what packages include them and what the deal-breakers are. I knew when I saw the listing for the Trail I eventually got that they had priced it too low--it was a Toyota Certified Used TE priced as though it was a non-certified SR5, so I pounced before they even posted pictures.

-Make appointments with dealerships, and make sure the dealership you're dealing with knows that you have other appointments. Feel free to cancel them if things are going well.

-As mentioned in other posts, there are lots of other things that you can have the dealer throw in if the price is no longer coming down. I negotiated for a new stereo, all-weather mats, reconditioning of the liftgate (which was all scratched up on the inside), crossbars for the roof rack, bumper-to-bumper warranty up to 100,000 miles and ToyotaCare for 2 years. All this in addition to going $2,000 under asking (we started at $3,500 under) -- and their price was low to begin with.

-Timing and Preparation. Go late in the day late in the month (when they are most motivated to make a sale), and eat before you go. There's a reason that dealerships will offer you coffee... the more anxious, rushed or hungry you are, the more likely you are to agree to a deal that doesn't suit your needs. Be relaxed and calm. Never go in when you have something to do later in the day; clear your schedule so that you don't have distractions. My negotiations started at 3 p.m. on December 28; we finished around 7:30. If you can make the salesman more anxious than you are, you're in control.

-Bring your own tools. Download an App (I used "LoanCalc") so that you can figure out payments, etc, for yourself. Bring paper and a pen to keep track of where you are with negotiations.

-Figure out what's really a deal-breaker. I really wanted running boards. The dealer didn't put them on, but, as mentioned above, I got a ton instead. I bought running boards from another member of this forum, got them shipped and threw them on.

-Make it fun. Enjoy it! At the end of this, you'll wind up with the world's best SUV. Keep it in mind.
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Old 01-28-2015, 01:22 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangman View Post
I just bought a 2011 TE used (obviously) from a dealership -- it's the first negotiation I feel that I've "won" and have a few tips:

-Come with cash, not a car. Sell your old car on your own if you can. I sold mine through Craig's List and got more than $3,000 more for it than the dealership offered me. Blue Book is a good guide, but keep in mind that KBB, Edmonds and NADA will all come up with separate values. I priced my old car about $500 under KBB and that cut the negotiations short.

-Line up your own financing. Unless you're looking at a new vehicle at a dealership that can offer 0 to 0.9% financing, get a pre-approval from a bank first. I got pre-approved for a 1.49% rate from my credit union for an amount up to $5,000 more than I was planning to spend, so I knew I had wiggle room.

-Pairing the two together puts you in the driver's seat by taking away the variables dealerships will try to use. We then were negotiating solely on price, rather than price, rate, trade-in, etc. Eliminate as many moving parts as possible.

-Do your damn homework. I knew I wanted a Trail, but it was after tons of research (both on this forum and in general) that I came to that conclusion. Always Google the model you're looking at and "problems" together. Ask around. Figure out what features you want, what packages include them and what the deal-breakers are. I knew when I saw the listing for the Trail I eventually got that they had priced it too low--it was a Toyota Certified Used TE priced as though it was a non-certified SR5, so I pounced before they even posted pictures.

-Make appointments with dealerships, and make sure the dealership you're dealing with knows that you have other appointments. Feel free to cancel them if things are going well.

-As mentioned in other posts, there are lots of other things that you can have the dealer throw in if the price is no longer coming down. I negotiated for a new stereo, all-weather mats, reconditioning of the liftgate (which was all scratched up on the inside), crossbars for the roof rack, bumper-to-bumper warranty up to 100,000 miles and ToyotaCare for 2 years. All this in addition to going $2,000 under asking (we started at $3,500 under) -- and their price was low to begin with.

-Timing and Preparation. Go late in the day late in the month (when they are most motivated to make a sale), and eat before you go. There's a reason that dealerships will offer you coffee... the more anxious, rushed or hungry you are, the more likely you are to agree to a deal that doesn't suit your needs. Be relaxed and calm. Never go in when you have something to do later in the day; clear your schedule so that you don't have distractions. My negotiations started at 3 p.m. on December 28; we finished around 7:30. If you can make the salesman more anxious than you are, you're in control.

-Bring your own tools. Download an App (I used "LoanCalc") so that you can figure out payments, etc, for yourself. Bring paper and a pen to keep track of where you are with negotiations.

-Figure out what's really a deal-breaker. I really wanted running boards. The dealer didn't put them on, but, as mentioned above, I got a ton instead. I bought running boards from another member of this forum, got them shipped and threw them on.

-Make it fun. Enjoy it! At the end of this, you'll wind up with the world's best SUV. Keep it in mind.
Good points, all of them.

And that Edmunds article is fantastic! Good, funny writing by the undercover guy confirming what we all know.
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:50 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hangman View Post
I just bought a 2011 TE used (obviously) from a dealership -- it's the first negotiation I feel that I've "won" and have a few tips:

-Come with cash, not a car. Sell your old car on your own if you can. I sold mine through Craig's List and got more than $3,000 more for it than the dealership offered me. Blue Book is a good guide, but keep in mind that KBB, Edmonds and NADA will all come up with separate values. I priced my old car about $500 under KBB and that cut the negotiations short.

-Line up your own financing. Unless you're looking at a new vehicle at a dealership that can offer 0 to 0.9% financing, get a pre-approval from a bank first. I got pre-approved for a 1.49% rate from my credit union for an amount up to $5,000 more than I was planning to spend, so I knew I had wiggle room.

-Pairing the two together puts you in the driver's seat by taking away the variables dealerships will try to use. We then were negotiating solely on price, rather than price, rate, trade-in, etc. Eliminate as many moving parts as possible.

-Do your damn homework. I knew I wanted a Trail, but it was after tons of research (both on this forum and in general) that I came to that conclusion. Always Google the model you're looking at and "problems" together. Ask around. Figure out what features you want, what packages include them and what the deal-breakers are. I knew when I saw the listing for the Trail I eventually got that they had priced it too low--it was a Toyota Certified Used TE priced as though it was a non-certified SR5, so I pounced before they even posted pictures.

-Make appointments with dealerships, and make sure the dealership you're dealing with knows that you have other appointments. Feel free to cancel them if things are going well.

-As mentioned in other posts, there are lots of other things that you can have the dealer throw in if the price is no longer coming down. I negotiated for a new stereo, all-weather mats, reconditioning of the liftgate (which was all scratched up on the inside), crossbars for the roof rack, bumper-to-bumper warranty up to 100,000 miles and ToyotaCare for 2 years. All this in addition to going $2,000 under asking (we started at $3,500 under) -- and their price was low to begin with.

-Timing and Preparation. Go late in the day late in the month (when they are most motivated to make a sale), and eat before you go. There's a reason that dealerships will offer you coffee... the more anxious, rushed or hungry you are, the more likely you are to agree to a deal that doesn't suit your needs. Be relaxed and calm. Never go in when you have something to do later in the day; clear your schedule so that you don't have distractions. My negotiations started at 3 p.m. on December 28; we finished around 7:30. If you can make the salesman more anxious than you are, you're in control.

-Bring your own tools. Download an App (I used "LoanCalc") so that you can figure out payments, etc, for yourself. Bring paper and a pen to keep track of where you are with negotiations.

-Figure out what's really a deal-breaker. I really wanted running boards. The dealer didn't put them on, but, as mentioned above, I got a ton instead. I bought running boards from another member of this forum, got them shipped and threw them on.

-Make it fun. Enjoy it! At the end of this, you'll wind up with the world's best SUV. Keep it in mind.
Hello fellow New Englander!

Agree strongly on all points. But that late in the month can kind of be tricky. I've seen some situations with people where the salesmen are pushier to get what THEY want in a sale, not what the buyer wants. However, 9/10 times it does work to the buyers favor. It certainly worked for mine (along with a 4 p.m. appointment)

I have always bought my vehicles from the same dealership. 7 cars in total. My parents, who have a business, buy, not just their personal use trucks there, but their business's trucks as well. A lot of business comes through there doors from my family. It's always felt like home, they didn't try to dick me around despite my being a woman (something I experienced every time I ever tried to even *think* about going elsewhere). I was raised in a mechanic shop (father also restores older cars), so I've been around vehicles my entire life. And when it's time to trade/buy, I do my research on what I'm interested in. I contact my bank to let them know I'm getting a new car and start the process of getting my financing all squared away. I go prepared, make it quick and painless.

With that said... This time, at that same dealership, it all changed. He pulled out the paper and started doing that stupid "4 Square" thing. Tried putting me in vehicles over my price point, with way higher mileage that I'd given in my specifications. Told me that I would never find what I wanted for the price point that I had, it was impossible. I was looking at another $10k, easy.

Then he put me in a Venza. Right after I told him I was not interested in a car that was going to be put out of production. I had also told him earlier (was looking at 4Runner, Tacoma or even Tundra because of 4WD), I didn't want intuitive anything. I wanted 4WD. My silly car I was getting rid of had intuitive AWD and in the years I had that, never ONCE did it kick on unless I pressed that AWD lock button and even then, I could only drive 2-miles at 15MPH. No thank you. Not with a baby.

I walked away. To which my husband is grateful, he would have disowned me if I came home in a Venza.

We went to an out of town dealership on a wing and a prayer. There she was, a 2011 Toyota 4Runner Trail with ONLY 32K miles on it. Well into my price range. I talked to the salesman, told him what I was looking at for payments, and overall price (to clarify to him that I was not financing for a ridiculously long period of time), informed him that I did have secured financing already in place. We pretty much just haggled a bit on what I would get for my vehicle in trade, signed papers and off I went. (They even put it on the lift in their garage and let my husband and I look at it under, inside and out)

Now, I had to pop into my local Toyota dealership to pick up a part for my husband's Tacoma while I still had my temp plates on and I will say the satisfaction of sticking to my guns ran strong when I saw the look on my now former salesman's face after I pulled in. He was sure, given my history of always buying from them, that I'd cave and just take whatever he put in front of me. Wrong. I have since received a call from the owner of the garage asking what he could do to make it right, to keep my business. I'm, alone, not a HUGE account, but I have spent a considerable amount of money there and if we were treated well again with this trade, my husband's new Toyota was going to come from there this summer. But no, they lost my business. If that's how they're going to start treating someone who is loyal to them, I don't want to be any part of it.

I get that they're trying to make money. Aren't we all? But to be so blatantly disrespectful of a customer by ignoring their needs and requests is just flat out BS.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:16 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikesToy View Post
I do my own buying a new car thing. Basically, I do my legwork and homework. First, i go online to find out invoice prices. Then i go to the dealerships if they have what i want. If they do have what i want, i play "Deal or No Deal" with them.
That's the way to do it. Stealerships will hose you if you let them.
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:36 AM #26
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That's the way to do it. Stealerships will hose you if you let them.
I lucked out, a buddy of mine gave me the t4r at invoice. From what he explained to me the dealership doesnt necessarily make money off the deal with me but it still helps the dealerships sales numbers.
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:55 PM #27
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I tend to do all my negotiating over the phone/email first; let them figure out what they'll sell it for. Shop around as well. I never expect a super steal, but like to leverage USAA/ZAG. However, informed consumers annoy dealers (and you shouldn't care). Stick to your guns and don't be a pushover. Remember, this is a financial BUSINESS decision for both parties, don't let it get emotional. If the dealer goes into what I call "charity mode", just walk; they don't want to sell you a car at a reasonable price for both parties.

Lastly, stand up against bogus fees. I've come to accept the venerable "doc fee and destination fee" as long as they're reasonable. Taxes, Title and license are out of everyone's control, so you have to pay those! Fees like "theft/vin registration, any protectants, 3rd party warranties, advertising fees and the like should be avoided. I also avoid pre-paying service fees. If you worry about the cost of servicing your vehicle, either it's not reliable or you can't afford it in the first place and need to set your expectations on purchase price accordingly.

I've never bought an american car new, but on Toyota's, I tend to stick to invoice + a little. This seems like a fair price to me + a fair price to the dealer and sales person with holdbacks and the like. On american cars, the rebate game (often 10-15% off) make judging the real value impossible.
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Old 04-12-2016, 08:58 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schooley View Post
I lucked out, a buddy of mine gave me the t4r at invoice. From what he explained to me the dealership doesnt necessarily make money off the deal with me but it still helps the dealerships sales numbers.
I just paid invoice + $200 for my SR5 Premium this weekend. Investigating, TrueCar, ZAG, USAA, etc, it looks like I got a reasonable deal. I've heard of people getting better deals, but I definitely didn't pay MSRP + bogus fees; just TTL.
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Old 05-13-2016, 03:17 PM #29
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Thanks, this stuff helps.
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Old 06-02-2016, 05:07 AM #30
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Love this post


QUOTE=Thai;5138]Car-Buying Recommendations

Now we come to the nuts and bolts of getting a good car at a fair price. This isn't a tutorial, since we have this information already posted on the Edmunds.com Web site. Instead, these are guiding principles to help you navigate the choppy waters of car buying. These are rules I saw being broken all the time by the shoppers that turned up on the car lots where I worked.



1. Use the Internet. The Internet is an amazing tool for car shopping. It levels the playing field by giving accurate information to the consumer. It takes the anxiety out of negotiating. It forces dealers to slice profit because they must beg for your business. It allows consumers to comparison shop loans and leases, as well as extended warranties and insurance. It gives the consumer power. Use Edmunds.com to conduct research and our PowerShopper tool to solicit bids. Once you enter the information about the car you are looking for into the PowerShopper interface, the dealers will come to you.

It's likely that you will have to visit a car lot at some point in the car buying process (for the test drive, for example). The following recommendations are general tips that will help you if you insist on face-to-face negotiations with car salespeople when buying a new vehicle.

2. Don't be in a hurry. This is a tough one because many people live busy lives with tight schedules. Their car breaks down and they have to do something about it this weekend, or on their day off, or at night. They might be overwhelmed by the problem and just throw themselves at the mercy of the car salesperson. Big mistake.

First, if your current car is on its last legs, consider sinking a little money into repairs so you don't have to make a panicked move at the car dealership. Yes, it's tempting to think of getting a new car and leaving the old heap behind. But caving in to this kind of impulse will cost you money.

If you can't fix up your old car, rent a car for a week. And make sure you rent the kind of car you are thinking of buying. There is no better way to test drive a car than to live with it for several days, using it for your daily commute or your typical errands. I guarantee you will learn something significant about the car that will help you make your final decision.

3. Walk away from any deal/salesperson you don't like. If you aren't committed to this rule you will lose money. Car salespeople know that if you leave the car lot to "think it over" you might decide not to buy their car. So they pressure you to "buy today." This isn't good for you. It means you might buy the wrong car. It means you might agree to financing that doesn't fit your budget. It means you will probably pay too much.

If you have serious misgivings about the deal you are making, walk away. Similarly, walk away from any salesperson who seems too aggressive, overbearing, bullying, evasive or unreliable. There are plenty of good salespeople out there. Find one. And deal with that person until you have the car you want, at the best price with the right financing for you.

4. Know the numbers. Yes, we already covered this under the heading of general concepts. Now let's look at it in a little more detail.

When you visit a dealership, and go into the sales room, the salesman will reach for a 4-square worksheet. They do this to keep track of the numbers in the deal that will affect their profit. Don't you think that if the pros do this, you should do the same thing to protect your money? If you don't, how else will you know what to pay for the car? What to take for the trade-in? What your monthly payment should be?

Using Edmunds.com, find out what the invoice, sticker and Edmunds.com True Market Value[/QUOTE]
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