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Old 03-05-2011, 05:37 AM #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-bOnE View Post
At the risk of resurrecting a monster, I must say that I installed sold air kits (to include K&N filterchargers) on two of my previous vehicles: a supercharged Grand Prix and a VW GTI VR6. BOTH vehicles were noticeably more responsive after the mod. Yes, the sound changed (although not too much) but the performance was definitely there. I plan to install a cold air box on my 'Runner - not sure if the Truck vs. Car will make a difference, but I'm willing to see...
Does make sound nice ,but on last oil test i was told it may be leaking.
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:33 PM #62
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Question

the original link no longer works (at least, not tonight)

did anyone copy it ?
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:56 AM #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4RNNR View Post
the original link no longer works (at least, not tonight)

did anyone copy it ?
ISO 5011 Duramax Air Filter Test Report
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:40 PM #64
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Hey well first thing is first toyota's dont like these mods without something to calibrate them. we all should know by now you can put all these great performance mods in but in the end the sensors are going to want to compensate and dump more fuel in...either way mine is fully done up. n/a wise....doug thorley long tubes..volant intake custom kit directly from them..borla exhaust...APR'S x1 kit....truck runs great......
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:18 PM #65
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I couldn't get that link to work either ...
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:24 AM #66
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[QUOTE=Gh0st;166898]
Quote:
Originally posted by greasefingers
Nothing offered on the market will add gas mileage

depends on what else you have done to the engine, did intake and exhaust on my tundra 5.7 it sounds cool but nope no mileage increase. my 07 duramax is a whole different story, chip intake and exhaust and its getting over 23 turning 35x12.5x20 bfg at kos. mileage calculated myself not with the in car computer wich claims im getting 29.
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:25 AM #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Koz View Post
The FACT is a motor is a pump, the more air/fuel in, the more power it makes. Increased air intake and increased exhaust flow will make more power. The question is how much and how much filtration are you sacrificing. The only way to know for sure is to dyno the same day/time before and after the exhaust change and have the oil analyzed before and after the filter change. Increased exhaust flow will definitely make HP, but you want to make power across the power band not just peak at high RPM. FACT is, depending on the vehicles air box design some after-market air filters will leak, so the fit is real important. Yes, more air in does allow more dirt but these studies/tests don't tell you that the increased dirt is because of the increased volume, the percentage of dirt to volume is probably very close. There are oil lab tests that show no increase in dirt using some after-market oiled filters. Right here (on this site) in Boaz's last oil analysis there was no increase in dirt using a K&N drop-in. I have also seen several analysis that do show an increase using other types of HP intake systems. My point is these mods definitely make more power and can be safe to use, you just have to do your homework and double check with an oil analysis. I personally don't care about making more power with the use of an after-market air filter, I just want the filter to be as good or better then the OEM and it can be reused. The most promising filter on the market in my opinion is the Amsoil Ea Nanofiber filter. Time will tell if it is as good as it looks. Also the TrueFlow looks interesting.

Koz
Great post!!!!! Facts are facts. I am just getting started on my SR5, but I know that I got a great HP boost and better MPG's using a K&N on a 91 Acura I had. It will be fun learning what can be done on my 4Runner.

Does anyone know if upgrading calipers and brakes help on 4Runners. It is definitely something I do on a tuner. Better calipers stop better but also release better. Also, any rotor recommendations?
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:35 AM #68
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I have fixed the original link.

To be fair, the test shows % and actual cumulative amount. Therefore, K&N may allow more air in, but by percentages, it also allows more dirt in...not just the total amount but the RATIO.

Two most important graphs follows.
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THE Truth about Aftermarket AirFilters!-filterefficiency-jpg  THE Truth about Aftermarket AirFilters!-dirtpassed-jpg 
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Last edited by Thai; 08-15-2011 at 07:46 AM.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:55 PM #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ret View Post
It seems a lot of people in this thread don't quite understand the difference between cold air intakes (CAI) and a drop in replacement panel filter. In terms of cars, a high performance filter on a CAI will certainly make a difference over the stock panel intake system, and how much it filters is arguably a moot point unless you're building a rally car.

Dealing with a truck, I wouldn't even bother with a CAI system unless you have no business off road at all, granted I haven't researched this area nearly as much as I have the former, but it's comparing apples to oranges.

I will say the best cone filter I've used is the AEM dryflow, bar none. Still looking for a 5" for my Supra.
Factory intakes are cold-air-intakes. Aftermarket CAIs are supposedly colder air intakes. You're right, a lot of people in this thread don't quite understand the difference.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:58 PM #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai View Post
I have fixed the original link.

To be fair, the test shows % and actual cumulative amount. Therefore, K&N may allow more air in, but by percentages, it also allows more dirt in...not just the total amount but the RATIO.

Two most important graphs follows.
In these 5011 tests, what size particles (in microns) or groups of particle sizes were there?
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:06 PM #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckmike26 View Post
In these 5011 tests, what size particles (in microns) or groups of particle sizes were there?
From the link:

"Capacity and Efficiency:
The Capacity and Efficiency test report presents the test results of feeding an initially clean filter with PTI Course Test Dust (dirt) at a constant rate and airflow. The course test dust has a specific distribution of particle sizes ranging from less than 2.5 microns to greater than 80 microns (see table below). Every filter is initially tested at 350 CFM and the Initial Restriction or differential pressure across the filter is recorded in IN-H20 (Inches of Water). The filter is then tested by feeding test dust at a nominal rate of 9.8 grams per minute with a constant airflow of 350 CFM. The test is continued until the flow restriction exceeds the Initial Restriction + 10 IN-H20. At this point the test is terminated and the amount dust passed through the filter - Accumulative Gain - is measured. Dirt passing through the filter is captured in the Test Station’s Post Filter. The exact amount of dirt passed is determined by measuring the before and after weight of the Post Filter. Similarly, the amount of dirt retained by the Filter under test - Accumulative Capacity – is measured by taking the difference between the before and after weights of the Filter. From these results the overall % Efficiency of the filter is calculated. This test also indicates how long a Filter will last before replacement is required (or cleaning for reusable filters)."
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:19 PM #72
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That's a wide range. Good to know though. I'll pack the intake tube with charcoal and desiccants when I want smoke- and moisture-free air going into the engine!
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:24 AM #73
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bring back from the dead, but i would like to add that a (CAI) Cold Air Intake is where the filter is behind the bumper away from the engine, then you got you SHORT RAM intake and its near the engine. then your stock box intake. i havnt seen a CAI for a 4runner, could someone please post a picture of one? BTW i have had a K&N FIPK intake on my IS300 for 7 years and had 145k miles on it and i never had a problem with it, worked like a charm.

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Old 08-26-2011, 11:43 PM #74
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A cold-air intake is anything whereby it ducts "fresh" air from outside the engine compartment. My '79 Impala had a cold-air intake. The O.E.s have been doing it for 40 years but the aftermarket coined the phrase "cold-air-intake" in the '90s. A "Short-Ram" is what A.E.M. calls a cone filter hanging off a tube hanging off the engine's throttle body (and generally not worth the time and expense).

The aftermarket has designed and manufactured "colder" cold air intakes that do suck/put the cone filter from/right behind/beneath the front bumper but those are prone to more dirt/water saturation so it's one step forward/one step back.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:55 AM #75
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It sounds more powerful for the simple reason that removing your stock airbox, (which sucks in air straight from the grille) and installing a cone filter for example allows more hot air into the engine, cause you to actually LOSE power AND gas mileage.
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