I've been following a few threads on these various subjects, but linked them all to here to avoid duplicate posting. I bought an 06 4runner sport edition two weeks ago and am very happy with my new SUV except...
1. Need ipod integration
2. Need NAV
3. Need bluetooth for phone
4. Need power for V-1 radar
5. Thought location of 12v socket in console by shifter sucks
6. Think it sucks that 12v power is cut off with ignition (i.e. can't charge my phone overnight).
R/E Ipod integration: For anyone not familiar with how to use your iPod in your car, you can either (1) Buy an FM transmitter which takes over radio signals with sound from your iPod, (2) buy an aftermarket deck with auxiliary inputs, (4) use the auxiliary input of your factory head unit or (5) buy a module that fools your factory head unit into thinking your iPod is a CD changer. Without getting into too much detail, the FGM transmitters work intermittently and sound crappy, I want to keep my factory head unit, and the auxiliary 1/8" unit is still amplified analogue signal with no charge supplied to the iPod. This leaves option 5 which consists of a small box module that has one cord going to the back of the factory stereo and another going to the iPod. Once setup correctly the modules will send digital (CD Quality) sound through your factory head unit allowing you to control some Ipod functions (i.e. tracks and volume) with your factory radio controls. It also charges your iPod while the car is running.
I was following a few threads like snowjay's...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...highlight=ipod talking about which unit they prefer. Some models suggested were the Vaistech soundlinq $299 (unless you wait for a group buy see
www.vaistech.com ) on the high end down to $89 for a BlitzSafe model. They all have their + and - but based mostly on price, Crutchfield's support (although I didn't need it) and the fact that I didn't care about Ipod text showing up on my head unit, I chose the USA Spec PA11-TOY available for $139 at Crutchfield...
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UfoqlT5...OY&search=pa11
This unit allows you to use either "Playlist Mode" which will select up to 5 play lists on your iPod from the head unit or "Direct Mode" which allows you to control all song selection from your iPod but control track +/- and volume +/- from the head unit or steering wheel. Setup was very easy with the master install sheet Crutchfield sent me. I would post those here, but they say (c) Crutchfield and I don't want to get anyone including myself in trouble. You do need to be comfortable with disassembling your console to get at the back of your factory stereo but eddit/whoknows and a few other members had linked the following instructions in other threads which are pretty much identical to the Crutchfield instructions (Moderators might want to make these instructions a "sticky" in Audio/Electronics)...
http://www.castulucci.com/projects/carpc/oemnaviaccess/
If you are not comfortable, I would suggest bringing your module to a stereo shop for install, but it is pretty easy and you can save allot of money doing it yourself.
R/E Navi: I had been researching and following OEMvalue's auctions for the new 2007 Solara Nav unit which will work in 4runners. I was going to buy it until my brother showed me his new Garmin Nuvi360 for 1/3 the price of the OEM Navi which did everything and more. Troy at OEM Value (
www.oemvalue.com/toyota2.htm) was very helpful and you can find info on the Solara unit there if you prefer the OEM Nav unit. Basically I like the Garmin because it contains an outstanding Nav feature plus bluetooth speakerphone compatibility plus more other features than I can list here all in a unit the size of a deck of playing cards. I would have had to do some serious hacking to get speakerphone out of the OEM Navi whereas its built in to the Garmin (my phone is a verizon V3m Razr and works great with it but you can check for compatibility with your phone here... . Usually it sells for $899 which is allot but I found it here
http://www.pcnation.com/web/details.asp?item=6G0210 for $680 no catch, just cheap. You can find out all you want to know about the Nuvi360 here...
http://www.garmin.com/products/nuvi360/
This unit is best used mounted by suction on the windshield by the rearview mirror. It is very small but robust with its display and resolution.
A note the residents of California and Minnesota: "State law prohibits drivers in California and Minnesota from using suction mounts on their windshields while operating motor vehicles. " They have to be mounted to the dash instead. I would have been very aggrivated if I spent $$$ on the Nuvi in either of those states not first knowing those laws. California statute (as Spider5 noted) is 26708(a) and Minnesota statute is 2005 sec. 169.71.
The suction mount is provided and even integrates a power jack, but the trick is getting power to the unit without stretching the included unsightly vehicle power cable from the 12v socket in the center console up the dash and up the windshield to the nuvi. As such I decided to tap into the Map light power as shown in Abin's thread here...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...5&pagenumber=1
This way there is only a small power lead coming down out of the headliner. Unfortunately, I didn't read icsfsedod's post r/e using the rearview mirror power instead of the maplight. The difference is the Maplight power is not switched off with ignition therefore nuvi and V-1 will stay powered on for a while after car is turned off. You may want to read the thread above and ask icsfsedod more about his install before doing it.
R/E Radar Detector: I already own a Valentine V-1
www.valentine1.com and think it is the best radar detector on the market. I won't go into detail, but you can research it online and ask other members what they think. Like the Nuvi, the V-1 needs a power lead from the maplight but can be easily made out of an ordinary RJ11 phone cable.
Here are some pictures...
Before you start anything, a few things to think about...[list=1][*]Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery AND WAIT 90 seconds or your airbags could deploy.[*]GO SLOW!!! Make sure you know what you are doing with each step.[*]Do not force anything. If it requires too much force, you are probably doing it wrong. Take a break and examine the pieces you are working with. Make sure everything is properly lined up.[*]Protect all your work areas. The interior is made predominantly of plastic finish which is easily scratched, marred and broken. Watch sharp edges of screwdrivers, knives or hot irons.[*]Take extra care not to drop small pieces and screws, etc. as they tend to fall into places where they are very difficult to retrieve.[/list=1]
Here is the driver kickpanel removed to access the center console area.
Here is the stock stereo exposed, I unfortunately did not take pictures of it removed before I put it back together. I ran cable USA Spec cable from back of stereo to PA11-TOY module which I mounted with double stick tape in space ebhind glove box. Then cable from module to Ipod under center console trim. If you want PA11-TOY install instructions for more detail, see here...
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Man...581PA11TOY.PDF
Here is finished Ipod mounted on a hybrid of Bracketron custom bezel mount (
http://www.bracketron.com/xmain/manuals/TOY-202-03.pdf bought from
http://www.gbxdirect.com/store/index.php ) affixed to a Proclip padded adjustable iPod holder item#848636 (
http://www.proclipusa.com)
End result is perfect digital quality sound with ability to select music using my iPod which is easily visible and within reach on the mount. I can then use my stereo or steering wheel to control Track +/- and Volume +/-.
Here are pictures of the additional 12v power socket I put in the larger center console compartment using $10 of supplies purchased from Radio Shack. I simply ran 18gauge leads tapped into the stock socket by the shifter with a splice and bored a 1" round hole with a stepper bit then epoxy the under dash mount that came with the radio shack 12v power socket. Finished result looks pretty good and allows cell phone charge to stay in console while wire comes out of gap in lid. My only beef is that power still cuts off when car is off so cell phone wont charge overnight. I am think of removing the relay mod as described in Kmvreter's thread here...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...constant+power