I'm starting my research into upgrading my 4r with a complete aftermarket system: carpc, HU, amp, components/speakers.

Has anybody managed to upgrade the stock sub and have the aftermarket sub stay in the same place as the stock?

My goals:
1) Improved bass extension and spl
2) Retain all cargo space

Does anyone know how many ohms the stock sub is? From what I've found, it's a 8"(corrected) sub. Can it handle more power? How much cu ft of space is the stock tub enclosure and has anyone mounted an aftermarket sub in it?

My options currently:
1) Run the stock sub with an aftermarket amp hoping more power will give me enough performance (unlikely...comments?)
2) replace just the sub with an aftermarket sub. May need to run the sub inverted (basket side out) to have enough clearance/airspace
3) replace sub and enclosure with a fiberglass tub

Of course the 3rd option would be best but if I can get away with the second option, it would be less work.

According to the 2K3 advanced intro document that used to float around here, the JBL Synthesis sub is an 8" driver in a 17 liter sealed enclosure. I've seen one post that said the enclosure had 4" of mounting depth. It's also a DVC driver using two channels from the amp.

There was someone who said he replaced the stock sub with a Polk 8" sub, but he never identified which model Polk.

That's all I've got.

-Brent

I've replaced the stock subwoofer speaker with one of these:

http://www.speedsound.com/product.asp?specific=jqmodoe0

Bottom end sounds a bit tighter and fuller.. Definitely made a big improvement over stock. I had to cut out an 8"-ish diameter ring from plywood and mount it into the existing subwoofer cutout, then I screwed the Kicker into the plywood (the screw holes didn't line up with the mount and I needed a bit more depth for the mount)

Really almost simply plug n play with t-harness adapters I got from Crutchfield.

This looks like it could fit easily

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...969765,00.html

Nice input guys!

So the stock sub enclosure is 17L or .6 cu ft which is generous for most aftermarket 8" subs. I think I can get enough output and extension with the right sub and amp power. I don't need earth shaking output (have enough of that in my other car), just enough for some strong reinforcement.

I like the pioneer sub you posted as well but will probably go for a stronger traditional sub. May even go basket inverted to keep the airspace (extension).

I did this awhile ago.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showth...ier+in+jbl+out
Sounds great, plays deep.

I tried to get my Alpine 10 Inch Type R Subwoofer in that space, but I needed fender flares to make work. ;-)

In doing my research and with what you guys have suggested, I've pretty much convinced myself of option #3.

I've fiberglassed before and created an enclosure in my spare wheel of my other car so glassing is not a problem.

My current approach is to make a custom enclosure in the stock location out of fiberglass and mdf. From there, I am torn between two ideas:

1) Run an inverted 10" Alpine SWR-1042D Type-R subwoofer so the cone will be firing inward. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nxfHziX...0&I=500SWR1042'
Two reasons for this is that the total depth of the sub is about 7" which exceeds the tub depth of 4". Also, over the years of playing with car audio subs, I've tended to prefer the "dispersed" bass quality out the backside of the sub. It seems to have a smoother quality and it doesn't have a directional compression wave which tends to rattle things the cone is facing. The basket side will simply protrude about 4-5" through the stock square sub grate into the cargo area. This should affect cargo space minimally since it's off to the side and off the floor.

2) Second option is to do what reptile did. This would offer a completely stealth install with no compromises and a 12" cone surface area for possibly higher SPLs. My only hesitation is that SQL and bass extension will be compromised. Also, since it's hidden completely behind the stock siding, I am worried about possible rattles and vibration. I may want to cutout an opening for a real grill.

FYI, I will be powering the subs with 300W RMS.

I can guarantee that thing will shake/vibrate your rig. You'll want to mat the obvious. My rattles are inside the rear door.

yabedude...

Got any pics of your install or can you explain it in more detail? I'm interested as you're using the same Type-R sub I'm looking into.

I built a pine box to hold 3 amps + cap. Installed 2 PC 12V fans, one sucking air in, the other pushing it out. Also added a small 12V light for convenience. Covered it it black auto carpet and then bolted it to the floor from inside the box and locked it. The sub is in it's own box.

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Pine Box covered

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Box installed with matching Sub.

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Alpine type-R 40 W RMS in the 4 doors. I guess I like Alpine as the HU is also Alpine. This pic is before installing, but you get the idea. That's a HAM radio. Wish I could do some of that fibergalss work to pretty the dash up a bit.

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Knowing the punch that the Type-R sub has, I can't imagine it being mounted in that little factory space without the panels vibrating like crazy.