check to see if the plug is all the way in, its good to unplug and plug it back in. i think it just control the volume to the sub and not boost.

Should I just axe the EZQ all together? I just want the static to go away. When I get them to rewire it I may just take the ezq out if I don’t need it.

If I get this Rockford Fosgate Power T1000X5ad Compact 5-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 at 2 to 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 1 to 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

Can I run just this and call it a day? Confused on what is required(besides an amp of course). I want only what I need to power door speakers and a sub. Nothing else. As little equipment as possible.

You don’t NEED the recurve, it just takes the muddy output from the stock head unit, conditions the music based on your inputs/changes and then sends it to the amp for amplification and then back out to the speakers.

If that is the cause of your noise, I might try bypassing it first to ensure that is the source of your noise.

Also, turn on noise, or turn on pop can be caused by the amp turning on before the processor. I’m not familiar with the recurve but I believe there should be a way to delay the signal from the recurve to the amp to give the recurve time to fire up.

I had the same issue with an AudioControl unit. I finally ditched it and put in a JL Audio Fix 86 and that worked perfectly.

Good luck man.

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Any issues with the 86? Are you using any type of EQ now? My tweeters are pretty bright. Too harsh in some instances.

Would you recommend me doing that? I don’t mind spending money and I know I’m going to have to. What I do have a problem with, is spending money for no reason to diagnose one problem and not have a real solution. I don’t want to just throw money around for no purpose.

I’d rather just do it once and do it right than trying a bunch of different things that my shop is going to charge me $110 per hour to look at and fix.