I have read most of the threads about homelink installs, and the autodimming mirrors, but most seem to all run the wiring down to the terminals in the kick panel.

Is there constant on power and switched power available in the maplight/sunroof switch panel of a gen 4 so I don't have to run the wires all the way down to the kick panel?

If not, is there any danger in removing the plastic panel running down the side of the windshield (airbags?).

I purchased an autodimming gentex mirror with an amber compass readout and homelink for 139 on ebay. Can't wait to get it installed.

Regarding the airbags I would look in the manual to see if anything is installed in the post. Otherwise it is easy to remove the handle and the post cover just pops off. However dropping the wires down through the post and instrument panel is a little scary but i was able to find the wires under the corner of the instrument panel by reaching up and feeling the wires until I found some that were not bundled and just hanging loose. Did you get instructions on installing this mirror? Just removing the old one is kind of hairy!

got instructions, there are just 3 wires, ground, hot (always) for the homelink, and switched for the compass. I have not looked at removing the oem mirror, I just assumed there was a plastic cover and then there would be a screw underneath. Loosen screw, slide mirror up and off and put the new one on. Is there a trick to removing the mirror?

Thanks for any input, Gerry

Sorry It's been too long since I did mine to remember the details. I'm hoping someone who has done this recently will chime in.

WoooHooooo! Got it installed, tied both power leads to A9 in the harness under the kick panel and it works like a champ. Compass is amber like the dash lighting and homelink was a piece of cake to program. Took about 30 minutes start to finish.

I have been looking for a write-up on installing this exact mirror and cannot, so far, locate one. I'm hoping to find some pics if possible. Any way you could point me in the right direction? I tried search, but nothing substantial shook out of it.

UPDATE: I did manage to find a couple posts, but I guess my question now is

A.) can this be done on an '04 SR5 (Don't see why not, but sometimes there are strange exceptions)

B.) When I'm looking at the A9 connection, I see two A9's on that diagram, one is off to the far left, the other is in the "cluster" on the top right. Is the stuff on the top left an exploded view of the stuff on the right?

Also, since I haven't done much wiring in my vehicles, I am curious as to whether or not there is any soldering or splicing involved in this. I don't see any reference to it, but I am not sure if it's just on of those things that is"understood" to be necessary.

Overall, the Gentex mirror install doesn't seem too hard, just time consuming - provided of course I can get some clarifications.

Thank you for your time.

T4RSpectre, these are generic mirrors, they just need 12 vdc and a ground. Ideally, the 12vdc source would be switched (A9 is not on my 08) but the current drain is very low.

My mirror came with the splices that require no cutting, I used 2 of them to tie the wires into the brown/red wire on a9. Piece of cake. The A9 you are looking for is in the big connector behind the drivers side kick panel, it is the lowest connector behind there (at least on my 08).

Thanks bud, I will pop the panels off this weekend and take a look to see if my '04 has everything in the right place. Thanks a bunch for the prompt reply, I appreciate the info.

Just curious, did you use the t-taps to get the wires hooked up? Those little plastic units with the "blade" in them that you just snap down? I've seen some references to them, just wondering if I need to pick some up.

We seem to have a lot of drivers in my area that drive with their high beams on, and frankly I'm just sorta tired of flipping my mirror every 2-3 miles down the road. This'll be a nice upgrade.

yes. I used the t-taps. I believe the directions I followed (pdf from this site) were for an 03, so you should have no problem. 10mm socket to loosen the connector behind the kick panel, a razor knife to trim back the tape and a t-tap and you will be good.