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Old 10-28-2011, 01:53 PM #16
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Thanks for this post ! I'm borrowing a buddies trailer so this is the first time I'm hooking up a trailer to my T4R. My plug appears to be completely dead. The one thing I did notice in testing is that my third brake light appears to be out. I was thinking it worked previously but could be mistaken.

Does anyone know the location of the fuse for this? Looks like 4th gen's are under the hood. Figure I'll start with the simple stuff before ripping into that rear panel. Frustrated as this messes with all my plans for the next couple days !!
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:35 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Helmuth View Post
I have edited the original posting to reflect the true "fix".

If you need help understanding your 4 pin connector and why it is not working properly I can now help you out.

I highly recommend the Hopkins kit #43415 ($34.75 Amazon-free shipping). If your truck or 4unner never had a 4 pin connector out back then this kit makes it a plug and play experience. It includes the 4 pin connector and enough wiring to route it out your back end to the hitch area.

If you already have a taillight converter box and it went bad-this unit can be spliced into place.

The 5 functions in are:


1/ Headlights-Parking Lights
2/ Brake -stop lights
3/ Right Turn signal
4/Left Turn signal
5/ Ground

This kit in combination with Hopkins #48055 ($7-Autozone)makes it easy to monitor your 4 pin functions from outside your vehicle with the LED indicators.
Ron,
I have a 98/ runner and I'm certain that the converter box is bad. My question is can I use the Hopkins 48055 ONLY to fix my trailer light issue? Or do I HAVE to use both the 43415 and the 48055 for the fix?
Thanks Jesse
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:15 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse Schulz View Post
Ron,
I have a 98/ runner and I'm certain that the converter box is bad. My question is can I use the Hopkins 48055 ONLY to fix my trailer light issue? Or do I HAVE to use both the 43415 and the 48055 for the fix?
Thanks Jesse
Welcome to the forum!
You should only need the 43415.
Wow, this thread was started in 2009.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:06 PM #19
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thanks Hollis-sleeping on the job....
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:22 PM #20
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turns out I wired my brake lights to the parking lights.

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Old 02-16-2017, 09:32 PM #21
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Converter box

So I had the same issues my trailer lights work but not the blinkers and I took out the black converter box and tested the six wire harness and it all works but if I plug that in the six wires from the truck into black converter box and test the 4 coming out it's the same problem, no blinkers. So my black box is bad also. Toyota said they don't make it anymore. I have a 98 base model with factory tow hitch. The box was under the panel by the 12v plug on the passenger side. My question is if I buy the Hopkins 43415 how will I plug thus all in? Do I cut the 6 plug off the truck and wire it to the hopkins one? Seems strange to cut when there is a nice happy plug on it.
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Old 11-01-2017, 08:04 PM #22
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Confirming OP's message, the Hopkins solution works

Bad converter here, same story as most of you.

Using this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q7ZLO..._prd_ttl_sol_0

Was all that I needed. I was a bit worried with all the wiring mess that the product seemed to have, as I only need the converter box replaced. If Hopkins would have just made the box, it would have been awesome, being the box can be completely removed from the truck by unplugging two connectors, but they don't ..

So this was the next best thing. There are no extra cables or connectors to be worried about.
The kit conatins a 1:1 replacement and nothing else, anything you remove gets replaced, and no wires left with a "where the hell does this go to then.." look on your face.

The kit cables stretch all the way to the right rear side of the car, and replace the connectors arriving from the right rear lights. Again, in my case this was not needed, but it was much easier to replace it all, rather then to start messing with the new Vs. old cables, splicing, etc.

It basically sounds much more complicated than it really is, for $25 and a couple of hours, you'll have a working trailer lights solution.
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Last edited by Lug1; 11-01-2017 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:53 AM #23
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Same when I bought mine, my box was tucked up in the passenger side frame rail. I re located it into the passenger side rear storage compartment; along with the trailer connector. It gets tucked away when not in use


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Old 10-15-2018, 09:07 PM #24
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I just got the Hopkins 43415 kit in the mail hopefully it fixes my trailer light situation.
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:20 PM #25
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Question Eliminating trailer 4 pin wiring black box?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Helmuth View Post
turns out I wired my brake lights to the parking lights.

When I step on my brakes now I light up my parking lights as well.

Turns out the purpose of the taillight converter box is to allow electric current flow out of the 4Runner to the 4 pin connector and not backwards up to the 6 pin connector.

I'll update again when I am sure I am fixed. The 4 pin is working great ....
Hi,

I know this is an old post but could not find the answer.

Can you just wire the brakes and running lights together and eliminate the black box?

I installed a curt 4 pin version adapter with black box and it must have been shorting out, (for a brake controller install). Been driving me crazy. I was blowing fuses on my running lights. Took it out and all works well with the 1997 4runner and back to normal. I would have returned it but I had to splice to get through holes and under the bumper.

Was thinking of just cutting the black box out and eliminating it and just wiring the brake and running lights together. Does this blow fuses? OR does it work? Again it is for a brake controller install so I do not want to take chances of something happening coming down a Colorado canyon.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 02-20-2020, 04:47 PM #26
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Sorry I am just catching up to old emails now LightningMan. I am terrible about watching my personal emails.

I bet you have already figured this out, but wiring your brakes to your running lights causes the dashboard instruments to light up whenever you press the brakes.

Additionally it's likely illegal to leave it that way.
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Old 05-21-2022, 10:01 PM #27
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If this topic still has life...

Does anyone know if the 7-pin and 4-pin route to the same fuse? I have a common problem, the 10AMP mini-fuse that runs the dash lights keeps blowing out when wet. I tow nothing and wish I could unplug both of 'em (they came with the used truck).

I can sort of follow the 4-pin to the passenger side tail light (I have a 1998 SR5), I think. But the 7-pin - which is pretty destroyed - seems to route to... both sides?

If I could, I'd like to unhook 'em both and remove them.
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Old 05-22-2022, 12:57 PM #28
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Depends in part if these connectors were factory or added on by previous owner.

The 4 pin doesn't connect to a 12V source like the 7 pin does, just L + R turn, brake, and ground.

The 7 pin usually goes to battery via it's own fuse (should be a black wire, with ground wire being white).
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Old 05-22-2022, 12:59 PM #29
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Oh yeah, if these were added by the PO he may have tapped into the rear lights for L + R turn, brake, and back-up.
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Old 05-23-2022, 01:42 PM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourwd1 View Post
Depends in part if these connectors were factory or added on by previous owner.

The 4 pin doesn't connect to a 12V source like the 7 pin does, just L + R turn, brake, and ground.

The 7 pin usually goes to battery via it's own fuse (should be a black wire, with ground wire being white).
Thanks for this! So the 10A fuse that keeps blowing is in the "4 pin & taillight" eco-system, separate from the 7-pin install, correct?

I think this narrows it down to the 4-pin or the converter box...
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