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Old 01-08-2005, 01:27 PM #31
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I think I'll try this when my warranty runs out, or when I run out of mods, whichever comes first.......probably the warranty.
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Old 01-08-2005, 02:33 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by Luxury
I think I'll try this when my warranty runs out, or when I run out of mods, whichever comes first.......probably the warranty.
You are right with this warranty....But I couldn't resist this mod and the best thing is You can take everything off in 15 minutes and put together as it was orginally and You will have only small mark left by T-Tap connector so I don't think that any mechanic would be able to find it....
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:19 PM #33
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Thanks for the removal tip, Krosno. I'm thinking of removing the sunglass holder and replacing it with theOmniFi controller, but couldn't figure out how to remove that sucker! Man, Toyota sure did make it hard to get to the fun stuff!
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Old 02-09-2005, 11:15 PM #34
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Was just curious if anyone with air bags on the A-pillars have tried this mod yet? Specifically, I am wondering where you were able to tap into the ILE wire and if you had to run the wire down the dash to the lower foot panel area or something?
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Old 02-10-2005, 12:15 AM #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by wkparker
Thanks for the removal tip, Krosno. I'm thinking of removing the sunglass holder and replacing it with theOmniFi controller, but couldn't figure out how to remove that sucker!
No problem..
Make sure You post pics after you replace that sunglass holder.....
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Old 02-10-2005, 03:24 AM #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by ScottAW
Was just curious if anyone with air bags on the A-pillars have tried this mod yet? Specifically, I am wondering where you were able to tap into the ILE wire and if you had to run the wire down the dash to the lower foot panel area or something?
You mean the fuse panel area, not the foot (kick) panel, right? BTW, once you have the A-pillar trim off, it's easy to drop the wire down the side of the dash and then fish it back up to the fuse area. The ILE circuit can be tapped directly from the front side of the fuse panel behind the fuse panel cover.

There's not much doubt in my mind that this can be made to work in airbag equipped trucks. The wire routing is no different than installing the compass mirror and I don't recall seeing any mention about airbags being a concern when people were installing those.
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Old 02-10-2005, 01:05 PM #37
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I was thinking about doing this Mod soon. After thinking about the ILE circuit, I think I will install two diodes, one each prior to each SPDT switch. This way it would insure that electricity would only flow from the ILE to the Map light switches and never the other way around. But I need to stare at the entire circuit diagram first. Does this make sense to anyone else?
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Last edited by greasefingers; 02-10-2005 at 03:06 PM.
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Old 02-10-2005, 02:00 PM #38
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Rando - Are you saying I can tap into the ILE ribbon cable right near the fuse panel? Also, have already done the mirror installation (as I picked it up from you actually), had no problems working around the air bags.

Greasefingers - Diodes sound like a good idea, although I'm not sure why there would be a differential voltage in that direction to cause current to flow that way. I supposed you never know, maybe a bulb going bad could cause it. Anyway, what kind of diodes would be needed? Something I can pick up at Radio Shack?
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Old 02-10-2005, 03:05 PM #39
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I am not an electrical engineer, so when I dabble in things that I am not 100% sure about, then I try to think about what I can do in order to prevent myself from “underachievement” or simply F’in up. The first thing that comes to my mind when using a trigger, like the Body ILE circuit, is to protect that circuit. I am not positive, but that is not simply a 12volt supply. I cannot explain myself any more than that without looking at the schematics; but I would place a safety device such as a rectifier/diode in the circuit. It might not be necessary. It could be like installing a check valve in a garden hose (a useless device). I need to understand that ILE more and was hoping to stimulate some opinions. Either tell me I am wrong or tell me that I might be on to something. And yes a Radio Shack pn# 1N4003 diode would most likely do the trick..
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Old 02-10-2005, 06:49 PM #40
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Maybe Rando can chime in on this one, he seems pretty knowledgeable on this stuff.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:49 PM #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by greasefingers
I was thinking about doing this Mod soon. After thinking about the ILE circuit, I think I will install two diodes, one each prior to each SPDT switch. This way it would insure that electricity would only flow from the ILE to the Map light switches and never the other way around. But I need to stare at the entire circuit diagram first. Does this make sense to anyone else?
ILE is on the ground path and is thus a current sink, not a supply. This mod uses ILE exactly the same way as it's used on the other interior lighting circuits. It's not the case that it joins the ILE circuit to another (potentially active) power circuit.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:50 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by ScottAW
[B]Rando - Are you saying I can tap into the ILE ribbon cable right near the fuse panel?
Yes, it terminates at one of the connectors on the front of the fuse panel.
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:02 PM #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by greasefingers
The first thing that comes to my mind when using a trigger, like the Body ILE circuit, is to protect that circuit. I am not positive, but that is not simply a 12volt supply.
You're thinking is spot on correct. Safety should be your #1 thought before you do any mod. The ILE circuit works by completing the ground path to the various interior lights. All this mod does is add ILE to the ground path of the map lights by using a (previously) unused switch position.

This is the OEM wiring for the Map lights. As you can see, just basic on/off functionality. The dome relay switches the lights off if you leave them on.
Battery==Dome relay==Map Light Switch Pole
GND==============Map Light Switch Pos1 (On)
N/C ==============Map Light Switch Pos2 (Off)


This is the OEM wiring for other overhead lights. These are the same as above except when in the DOOR position. In that case, the ground path is controlled by ILE via the Body ECU. This does the fade out effect. If you leave them in the ON position, the dome relay switches them off.
Battery==Dome relay==Overhead Light Switch Pole
GND==============Overhead Light Switch Pos1 (On)
N/C ==============Overhead Light Switch Pos2 (Off)
GND==Body ECU(ILE)==Overhead Light Switch Pos3 (Door)


This is the wiring for the mod'd Map lights. As you can see, your map lights now work like above with the OFF position having been turned into the new DOOR position.
Battery==Dome relay==Map Light Switch Pole
GND==============Map Light Switch Pos1 (On)
GND==Body ECU(ILE)==Map Light Switch Pos2 (Door)


I'm not sure how a diode will help here. It is true that this mod puts your ILE circuit at risk. When all the lights are on, your ILE circuit will be sinking more current than in the OEM design. I have no idea if it can actually tolerate this -- but it's been working fine for me.

If Toyota did their job right, it should be OK since ILE should be able to handle a short circuit that might happen when changing bulbs. The fuse that protects the dome light circuit should blow before the ILE circuit is damaged ... at least that's how I would have built it.

Last edited by rando; 02-10-2005 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 02-12-2005, 11:32 AM #44
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rando:
Thank you for replying to my post. I did not reply right away because I could not find my FSM for Electrical Wiring Diagrams, and this was killin me. Finally, for the first time ever, I took a long stare at it. I started with page one because I am not familiar with Toyota. It took awhile to get used to the White wires w/black stripes being “grounds” and then agian then are sometimes Brown. Also, the gray shaded areas in the manual are junction blocks. Anyway, examining the Interior lighting section and also remembering what you stated in your post; it all now makes sense to me. Before this I assumed that the ILE wire was the supply. Thanks for clearing that up. If I had no resources, I would have installed a diode using my twisted logic. I am sure, from my original assumptions, that I would also installed the diode backwards. And then what would I have thought then the lights do not work. Since the Map Light is represented as only a Blue Box, on the schematic, how on earth did you know that there would be an additional THIRD terminal on it? You deserve a lot of credit for carefully thinking about this Mod
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:40 PM #45
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I didn't know ... just hoped. Since I had the spare map light unit laying around (left over from adding the Homelink unit), all I had to do was look.
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