2005 Toyota 4Runner. Box build templet out of 1/4" foam Board.

Using measurement - taking in count that its 1/4" foam board and the actual build will be 3/4" MDF. The total volume estimated (0.7753 cubic feet)

What Do you all think?

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I want to install a Kicker solo baric 10"L7 dual 4-ohm sub powered by RF Power series T600-2.

The sub requirements calls for 0.66 - 1.0 cubic feet sealed.

Box is estimated 0.77531

Sub Wired down to 2-ohm's bridged on amp which is stable pushing out 600 RMS with 14.4v constant (estimating somewhere around 14.4-12.4v constant on actual conditions). Going to use Monster Cable (their best) 2 channel sub cable from HU to sub AMP. 12g Speaker wire from Sub to AMP drilled threw box and sealed. (I hate those plastic box terminals, its just another connection causing a splice in the line).

Truck already has installed (by me):
a) 0/1g Monster cable for power from front to back with 200 amp fuse. ATM going to a distribution block changing to 4g powering a RF Power series T-600-4 amp feeding 4 Focal 165KR speakers w/Custom brackets and 14g Speaker wire from amp to speakers with NO splices.
b) Monster Cable 4 channel (their best) RCA from HU to AMP
c) Pioneer Avic Z110bt HU

Main Question is before box will get built -"Is there too many corners to rid this box useless?"

that should be fine, did u consider making the front slant to the back of the seats, should give u a lil more volume, look at the jl one.
Toyota 4Runner Stealthbox by JL Audio

Yes i thought of that, however by slanting the back it will be maybe give little more volume or no change. the slant is not a hudge distance due to the height keeping under the trunk cover. even so its not enough to make difference.

I like the Kk audio look, but for that price its more efficient to think outside the box.

i would still slant the back and make it look flush, u might as well do it since u still fabbing up the box part before the fiber glass.

I think i would make the box inside the side panel instead of like the JL box. To me that just kills too much room. I think if you used fiberglass instead of wood you could get a decent volume for a 10. If you set it out a little you may could fit an efficient 12.

Yes, fiberglass would be a smoother install and cleaner bass response due to the lack of corners. However I hate to fiberglass and I'm not good at it.

Putting the box in the side panel would not be efficient. Cleaner look but as for bass response there is not enough air flow for a 10" sub. So then the box will have to be build outward from the panel which still will take up space.

As far as taking up space in the truck, I think it's a perfect fit. Its all wasted space plus the amp spot fits inside the extra space the box hangs over.

I am not worried about fitting a 12" sub. I have plenty of mid snap coming from my amazing Focal 165KR 2 ways. I really do not have a need for a sub but a 10" done properly will clean up the sound allowing just the correct amount of bass to highs. If I were to put a 12" sub I would need to upgrade the doors to either a STRONGER 6" (but what affordable speaker am I going to get rated above 150 rms that sound goods) or just upgrade to 8" high. Relocating the door speakers would also help.

In this 4runner I am looking for great balanced sound at normal listening volume. I have an Avalon which has all that music crap inside to go deaf. 2-15" subs thru a crossover. 2-10" highs, 2-8" highs, 2-6" highs, 4-tweeters powered individually from its own amp. 4-amp, 3-batt. AND Fully Matted. I still think I want to get rid of the 6's and add 2 more 8's or 10's due to crazy amount of deafness I go thru in that car i cant hear the words no more.
^^^reason y I'm keeping the 4Runner simple.

not bad of a set up, i like it, i like my focal 165 k2p in the fronts and a/d/s/ 346 is with the focal tn52 tweeter, power by 2 jl 300/2, how u like the kr? have u thought about doing 3 way up front? also how about adding some horns? i was told its louder.