So yall think I should go with one 12'?

I would personally choose a single 10 or 12 inch sub over a dual setup with your set budget. The dual setup will be louder, but the single will still get loud and also result in much better quality (assuming you spend the same amount of money and get one good sub vs two cheap ones).

What? Subwoofer placement is NOT that important. The frequencies from a subwoofer are nondirectional (unlike frequencies from mids & tweets which are more unidirectional which is why the best imaging is to have them pointed right at the listening position). You could mount the sub in the rear quarter, in a box on the rear floor, in the center console, in one of the doors, in a box on the roof and have it come through the headliner.....point is is that it doesn't matter where you mount the sub...as long as the enclosure is correct for the sub you're using.

I agree with this. The whole system is going to be centered around two things...your HU and the amp you choose. If the HU doesn't have the connections you need or can't control other parts of your system then it's not going to work well. The amps importance not only comes with how much wattage you get or how clean the sound is (THD-total harmonic distortion), but also what kind of crossover settings you can adjust with it. For instance, it's nice to have an amp with a 12/24db octave switch so you can use 24db...but most only have the 12db. It's also nice to have the choice to switch either channel between high pass or low pass (HP/LP). Most amps only give that option on either the front or rear channel and not both...some don't give it at all.


Yup, the rear door speakers are the last thing you should worry about. You want most if not all of your voice (midrange & tweet) to come from the front doors or what they call your "front stage" for the best overall sound quality. The rear doors would however do well in filling in the frequencies between what the midrange in the fronts and the sub are producing...which would be what's called the "midbass" frequencies. This could be done well with a 6" or 7" woofer. BUT...once you do this, you'd be better off going with a fully active crossover system and nothing passive...which means more amp channels (possibly added amps) and alot more tweeking....so worry about that when you're ready.

IMO...where you need to spend money should be in this order: HU, amp, door componants, then sub...and that's assuming you buy one sub (read below for clarification).

Good suggestion. Honestly, I know you said above that you like the "high bass"...but IMO, you'd be way happier with a loud system that also sounds good. You can do this with much less subwoofer than most people think. An added plus is that it also saves you space.

You could get quite a bit of sound out of an 8". Take these for instance: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-9933-swr-843d-alpine-8-dual-4-ohm-type-r-subwoofer.aspx These things are wicked! They can handle more than 900 watts and the rest of the specs are just as nice. You take 1 of these in as little as .3 to .5 cu.ft. enclosure with the right amount of power...and you'd be set. Even better would be to take 2 of these and still only have a 1 cu.ft. enclosure, wire them up to a mono channel on a 5 channel amp and depending on the amp...easily pump 500-600 watts through them. Here's a thread on another forum just about this 8" Alpine: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/100729-alpine-swr-823d-843d-8-subwoofers.html This is the sub I'll be installing into my Runners' rear OEM sub box and run about 400-500 watts to it.

As far as front speakers go..right now you'd be best off just going with a nice componant set with passive crossovers. Some nice one's out there are:
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_10570_Hertz-HSK165-2-Way-6-1-2-inch-Component-Speakers.html
http://store.12velectronics.com/products/Imagine-I61%252d2-Component-%7B47%7D-Coaxial-Speaker-Set.html
http://www.phoenixgold.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=32&CategoryID=4
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EWMJNE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&m=A2LYDS8AIU9VMR
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA6514--6-5-Inch-Speaker/dp/B001C3K7I4/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1303313191&sr= 1-9

Don't let the prices of the componants push you away...this will be where you get the most clarity out of your system...plus, they differ in price across the internet, so you may be able to find them cheaper.

Honestly with a budget like yours, depending on your priorities, this is what I would put. These were my priorities on my old car that I recently sold.

You mentioned a double din touch screen. Do you really need Nav? X920BT is gonna run you around 1 grand. Maybe go with a AVH-P3200BT. It's a pioneer unit, you get the same good quality, double din, crisp clear screen, bluetooth (that was my priority, not sure if that matters to you if it doesnt you can get the P3200DVD for about $50 cheaper).

As for the sub, go with a single good one. I had a single 12" Alpine Type S (if you can squeeze the budget, then go with a Type R but I settled with the Type S since it already has decent bass that was setting off car alarms in parking lots) in a ported box (box with the air space for it to breathe). For the amp, find an amp that corresponds with the specs of the sub. In my old car, actually I'm not sure if the OHM matched, but I bought a used 1250 watt amp off craigslist which at first looked like old junk because it looked archaic but turns out it was a competition type amp class d i believe. This whole setup (no speakers yet) costed me around $750 already.

Excellent advice!

I am not 100% sure if car audio is like home audio but yes sub placement is very important. In home audio if the sub is not placed in the correct location you can create a NULL. I was at a Sencore (they build calibrating gear for audio and video) training class and they created on of these. You could take two steps in a certain direction and BAM not a damn thing. then two steps back and you could feel the base or a few steps forward.

But like I said not sure if this will happen in car audio. I do not see why it would not!!

I agree, two subs can also be too much. One good sub with the right wattage can make a world of difference. My one 10" Kicker has been mistaken for multiple subs many times. It's all about following specs for wattage and enclosures. The fun part about audio is that you can always upgrade. Start small and see what you like

Big difference between putting subs in a large room and putting subs in a small car.

A vehicles cabin adds a certain level of db gain. The smaller the vehicle the more gain. It's called "cabin gain". This is due to the small confines of the vehicle cabin vs. a more open-air enviroment like a living room for instance.

Now, yes...based on where you place the sub you could use surfaces in the vehicle to reflect the sound...and it CAN make it sound louder but that is not what the sub and enclosure really sounds like. Also, if you've gone through alot of time to build an enclosure tuned to a specific frequency, the "bounce" can change the end result. From past experience, the more you bounce, the more muddy the bass sounds.

The only good thing IMO about aiming or placing a sub/enclosure to purposely acheive soundwave bounce...is if you're trying to make up for not having enough power in the first place and only want the low, muddy, resonant bass notes.

I was in your situation not so long ago, I wanted some bass in my 1998 4Runner (now I have a 2006 Limited) but didn't want to spend alot of money. Bass is nice, and I didn't need anything top of the line...I had a pioneer AVIC F700BT that I installed myself, (bought off of eBay for $400 at the time), still a good radio, and I would try out an active enclosure for now...some people on here are going to call me crazy...but they are easy to install, have a built in amp that is configured for the sub, will most likely give you the bass you want, and they are cheap. Check out Fusion Electronics Active Enclosures | FUSION Electronics ...again people are going to think i'm sending you on the cheap route, but at your age, trust me, i've been there...and its better to compromise and get something you like, that you can upgrade later, and actually have some money left over for gas, or hanging out, eating out with friends, spending money on a date...I had the single 10" active enclosure, and playing something like basshunter turned all the way up, it would rattle my windows...if you want something even louder, look at their 12's. Read up on them, decide what you want...then check eBay. I can vouch that although fusion isn't the highest on the charts, I was satisfied, and I think I spent less than $200 on the whole active enclosure. Keep in mind that you dont necessarily want to use up your whole trunk either...the 10" was a good size. I hope that helps, and I hope you decide to keep some money in your pocket.