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Old 04-30-2011, 07:40 PM #1
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pics of my stereo install

Just posting some pics of my stereo system and so forth. Kinda interesting.
Pioneer avicf900bt, Focal krx2, JL hd6004, JL hd7501, JL zr8, JL 10w6v3, 2 kinetik batteries, isolator, 2000 watt marine ac/dc inverter, viper alarm remote start, etc.pics of my stereo install-photo0324-jpg

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Old 04-30-2011, 08:43 PM #2
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Nice...I bet that sounds killer.

I'm debating on whether to glass up new a-pillar covers to house a 3" and tweeter...and then I'd throw a midrange in the front doors and large midbass in the rear doors.
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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/galler...er-thread.html

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Old 05-01-2011, 06:05 PM #3
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Yeah it really sounds great for sure. Very good sound quality.
Tweeters on the a pillar in the 4 runner does sound nice. I also have fiberglassed some in to the a-pillar in the 4th gen 4runner. It may actually be possible to mount a 3inch speaker behind the factory tweeter location. I mounted a hertz 3 inch mid there before. Good luck.pics of my stereo install-photo0323-jpg

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Old 05-01-2011, 10:41 PM #4
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hot glue and duct tape? its a big no no, hot glue will melt in the heat, im surprise u fit an 8 inch driver in the rear doors.
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:20 AM #5
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Did you end up with enough front clearance to the door panel on those rear 8's...looks like the surround would hit with enough movement? Looks like you made your own spacer/adapter ring. Does it stick out further than the stock one? I had wondered if an 8" would fit in those doors...and was even looking at 7" woofers thinking 8" would be too large.

So, you've fit a 3" in the stock tweeter location on the front doors? I was wondering if one would fit there. Was it a high end driver? I'm wondering how much depth is available there. My plan was to try a 3" extended range in that spot, but I have yet to pull the door panel and see what space I have to work with. If I can fit a nice 3" in the upper door, then I won't need to glass up a-pillars...I can just put tweeters in pods attached to the stock pillars.

The plan I have is for H-Audio (Audible Physics) AR-Duo set. AR6K's low in the front door, and the AR3K in the stock tweeter location.
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:01 PM #6
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That amount of hotglue shouldn't fail. And no, there is no duct tape used. You must be seeing the hushmat pieces.
About the three inch speakers in the tweeter location... Yes i put them there for a while. There is a quite a bit of depth theredue to the large factory tweeter mount. A lot of depth really, but remember, you have to get the panel back on. The only drawback is that the three inch speakers cone may be like 2.5 inches large and the factory hole is like 2 inches. So, sound may not be perfect. I mean, it worked surprisingly well; but, there is better ways to do it right i suppose.
About the 8 inch speaker in the rear door. Yes, I made a spacer ring. 3/4 inch. I cut the inside of the panel out. Just the excess plastic that sticks out towards the factory speaker. So... no, the woofer never hits the door panel at all. I cut the metal out of the door to 7 inches but maybe didn't have to due to the spacer ring. If you do this, definitely use a lot of hushmat. Also use woofer that are made for infinite baffle or free air. With the JL ZR8 the spacer would be perfect if you actually put a little hushmat under the spacer to give it like another millimeter or two. Surprisingly, after this they fit perfect. They are no rattles in my door except the window itself barely rattles. But, no rattles when the window is up all the way.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:06 AM #7
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Yeah, the hole in the stock tweeter plate is a bit small, but it looks like there is enough room to cut the opening larger in the plate and still be covered by the mesh grill. Size of the hole won't have to be perfect...but the better I can get it to match the better I can seal the front and rear waves from interacting.

Deadening the doors is on the aggenda. I've done the entire rear cargo area already and I'm planning on going all the way to the front foot wells with it. The doors will get it inside and out and then a piece of egg crate foam directly behind the driver. I'll also use a couple layers of deadener as a gasket to decouple the driver from the sheetmetal.

Here's what I've got done so far:


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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/galler...er-thread.html

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