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Old 05-09-2010, 02:10 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikesToy View Post
Then why do you dealers mark up the price so high?
Of course the dealer will give you way less for it, then sell it for an extra 10k. How else do you expect them to make a profit?
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Old 09-19-2010, 01:24 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikesToy View Post
Then why do you dealers mark up the price so high?
It's not just the dealers, it's the technology you pay for as well. You want ABS, that will cost you. You want A/C? Pay out a little more. All of the technology in our current automobiles come at a very high price. The cars of today are almost like the USS Enterprise is in Star Trek. Computers, computers and more computers. I still the old days of just mechanical work and not having to worry about a computer sensor or chip. You screw one of those up, and it costs a LOT more money.
Dealers need to make money too, I hate to say, just like everyone else.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:49 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Davis View Post
Also, at least in North and South Carolina (I think this is Federal) any vehicle over 100k miles is sold as TMU anyways. TMU means true mileage unknown. By law the seller must tell a customer this, but being as it's "supposed" to be common knowledge, they let them look at the nice, trustworthy Carfax reports and keep quiet because the vehicle has 101k miles on the clock. I dare say this law is "left over" from the days when vehicles only had 5-digit odometers. It's really rather ridiculous because if the vehicle really has 101k then the True Miles ARE known! This is a major reason a vehicle's value plummets when it hits the 100k mark.
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I wholesaled cars and trucks in Arizona for about 20 years (retired for awhile now), but here, the mileage rating system for vehicle titles is a little bit different than what you describe. In AZ, When transferring title to a vehicle, the private owner or dealer certifies that mileage shown is Box 1, Box 2, or Box 3.

Box 1 is actual miles as shown on odo to best of knowledge.
Box 2 is over 100K to best of knowledge
Box 3 is TMU, true miles unknown

6 digit odometer vehicles with accurate mileage would therefore be titled as Box 1.
Box 2 designation is for 5 digit odos with over 100K, accurate mileage.

Last edited by webby; 09-19-2010 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:06 PM #19
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About 20 years ago I was getting ready to go on a road trip out west...I brought my car in for an oil change right before the trip, and the mechanic offered to set my odometer back for an extra 50 bucks.

Ten years ago I knew someone who bought a brand new Toyota tacoma. Their daily commute was 80 miles one way, so 160 miles every day was going on that vehicle. Pretty much the day he bought it he dissconnected the odometer/speedometer, and drove it that way off and on for 5 years. When he sold it the odometer said 60k miles but the truck probably had over 180k real miles on it.

After those two experiences I really have a hard time buying a used vehicle.

The past three vehicles Ive owned I bought new, and drove each until it pretty much died. I know I lost money in terms of depreciation, and in some cases getting leases, but the peace of mind of having a vehicle that you know the history of, and also of having a brand new vehicle that you know will be free from (hopefully anyway) of major issues for 3-5 years is well worth it.
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:54 PM #20
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I would only buy a certified used car with under 20,000 miles and the 100k powertrain warranty from a dealer. But there are many good values on a off lease 2 year old low mileage certified car out there. Plus the power train warranty is better than factory.
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Old 01-24-2011, 07:03 PM #21
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I would never buy new. Ill take my chances with a rolled back odometer. Thats why i do my due dilligence in researching the background of a used vehicle and knowing what im looking at in front of me. Not to mention a pre purchase inspection. For less than $100 you can save thousands over new cars. Plus i only buy from individuals. Having worked at numerous car dealers i feel their markup doesnt justify the 150 point, or even 150 million point inspection.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:08 AM #22
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Ahhh, I remember buying my first Volvo and turning back the mileage with a small screwdriver.... Those were the days! That car was a rustbucket. Bought it for $300, got it registered and insured, and the same day I got sideswiped and got $1200 from the insurance company. Kept the car, bought a new rim and drove it til it died.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:32 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRD04RUNNER View Post
Can a digital odometer be roll back??
this happened to me first hand, my brother had an accord w/ indiglo gauges he put in. Well they melted to the gauge cluster, he had 170k on the car, he picked up a new gauge cluster at the junk yard and the new gauge cluster had like 40k lol.. digital mind you.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:22 AM #24
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you can fIND a kit specifically designed to rollback speedos, not cHEAP, THENYOU CAN FIND A GROUP OF PEOPLE ON YAHOOGROUPSWHO DOES THAT AS THEY FULL TIME JOBS. THERE IS SOME LEGITIMATE USES OF THAT EQUIPMENT,BUT 99.9% ITS ODOMETER FRAUD.
ALMOST ALL MODERN CARS STORE THAT INFO IN THE CLUSTER, NOT ECU. THEY CONNECTTO CLUSTER ROM AND REFLASH IT.

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Old 03-10-2012, 12:34 AM #25
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I only buy new carsbut not because of possible speedo fraud but becuse i onlyhave one life and i don`t want second hand anything.nothing better then new, i can`t stand deler term preowned. I hate that word. Used is used, someone else problems better stay someone else not mine.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:46 AM #26
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I had a '71 corvette that I sold to a neighborhood dealer. His check bounced and when I reclaimed the car a few days later it had 40,000 less miles on it. His plan of course was to sell the car and cover his check or maybe just disappear before I came back.

Gotta wonder how odo rollback and car theft can still go on with all the computerized title records and chipped security car keys.
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Old 04-26-2012, 01:51 AM #27
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Almost bought a '99T4R w/ 117K on it. The dash was a little dim but didn't know what was up. When I checked the carfax, it said it was a '98 and that the last known mileage was 271k!!!!!!!!! Only after discovering this did the guy explain that the engine had seized and he replaced the engine w/ a '99 and swapped the cluster as well (lying sack of shi-take mushrooms). I tried to explain that this was fraud b/c the tranny and drive train still had a butt load of miles on it but he took off w/ my $400 deposit until I could get the rest of the money. Small price to pay for a lesson learned I guess.
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:58 PM #28
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I always buy new. And I Always buy Toyota. It's amazing how little my cars depreciate from the price paid. If you shop around and get a good price it makes no sense to buy used. My last taco took a 3k hit after driving it for four years.
And since I buy new I get a warranty and know the car will be we'll taken care of. I'd only buy domestic used, because their resell is ****.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:24 PM #29
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:19 PM #30
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I'm about looking at a 04 4x4 4runner with 89k miles on it. Even if the odometer is not showing the correct number, the ware and tare on the vehicle should be detectible by a mechanic right? I was planning on taking the vehicle to an off site mechanic to have it looked at before I started negotiating.

Is it a valid assumption to assume that a decent mechanic should be able to tell the amount of ware the vehicle has. Like someone commented before there could be a vehicle with 30k miles in worse condition that a vehicle with 200k miles
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