This issue is important enough to those towing heavy loads that it makes sense to sticky this one so that new folks looking to tow with their 4Runner will be less likely to overlook this detail. I was within a week of making this mistake with a maximum tongue-weight load and I'm sincerely grateful that this thread got my attention!

Yes this thread/information in it is important. Crucial even.

My 4runner manual says

V6 5000 lbs
V6 with WD 6400 lbs

V8 7000 lbs no mention about WD or not. I've been skeptical of that since on this forum often the differences in V8 hitches for the 4runner has come up. Without having read this forum, I would have never questioned it, and just went on to pull up to 7000lbs with thinking about it.

Plus my manual atleast doesn't even talk about trailer brakes. I've seen manuals from other makes that give different rating for unbraked trailers vs braked trailers. And the difference in 1000's of lbs.

There seem to be different versions of owner’s manual, maybe even within the same year. Maybe not all 4th gens are the same in this respect.

My owners manual says:

Towing capacity (trailer weight + cargo
weight), kg (lb.):
For weight carrying hitch 2268 (5000)
Also for weight distributing hitch2UZ- FE engine onlyTwo- wheel drive models
3311 (7300)
Four- wheel drive models
3175 (7000)

Ross. I think there might be several revision of the manual too. I'm in Quebec, Canada. So I have a French manual with mine. Sometimes I think it was translated from Japanese, to English, to French. French isn't my first language. But I ask my buddies for who it is their first language, and they don't understand some of the words either.

Example: the French wordage used to describe the WD hitch and attachements etc...is really applicable to attachements for horse drawn carriages with a harness.....

I get the feeling it's translated too (see the gross error regarding the receiver in earlier posts) but I also have heard that companies have gone more conservative in their tow ratings over the past 5-10 years, possibly in response to too many owners overloading their rigs because they don't understand how to calculate what can be reasonably towed. How many folks out there think a 5000lb tow rating and 500 lb tongue rating means you can slap a 5000lb trailer with 500 lb of tongue weight and THEN load up the TV with another 1000 lbs of people and gear, especially gear over and aft of the rear axle and tow just fine? My thought is that lots do. I'm an engineer and before I started reading up on towing I thought this as well. Thankfully I just so happened to have the interest and take the time to drill down and figure out how things really ought to be. Where I live and drive I see countless rigs that must be thousands of pounds over the ratings. All is fine and dandy until you need to stop. Most of the other effects of overloading your TV don't show up until thousands of miles down the road.

Thanks for the thorough explanation! I’ve been looking for one for a long time.
I have a 2007 V6 4Runner. I thought I bought the “trailering package”, but my sticker says I paid $430 for Option TO, which is a “Weight-Carrying Tow Hitch and Ball Mount Kit” (which I believe includes a transmission cooler).
I want to tow a 3300 lb Casita, and am buying one that has an after-market WDH, which I believe would be highly desirable (if not necessary). However it looks like I need a WDH RECEIVER on the 4Runner. Questions:
1. What good options do I have if I stick with the Weight-Carrying Tow Hitch?
2. Can I buy an aftermarket WDH? Who from? Is thaht cost-effective?
3. Would it make better sense to trade-up to a V8 4Runner? Or should I look a bigger tow vehicle?

Thanks!

This is one of the most confusing threads I have yet to read. It took me a good bit of research to figure out what I have myself.

I have the 2008 4.7 V8 with the towing package. On the hitch itself (factory)there is a sticker stating tounge wieght limmits for both use as a weight-carrying and weight-Distubing hitch. Take a look back there and see what you have allready.

In my opinion the weight of what you want to tow is fine and you will be conforatable, but you do not mention the tounge wieght. If that is within the limmits I think you would be fine. But I got no doubt that with a WDH it would be safer smoother ride.

You're pretty much at the same point I was a few months back. I'm towing a 2006 Jayco 1206 pop-up that has a GVWR of 3450lb and I tow it near or at that number. Here's my answer to your questions:

1. If you stick with the weight-carrying hitch receiver (the one bolted directly to the last frame crossmember) you CAN NOT use a weight distributing hitch with the spring bars hooked up in design mode. You can, however, tow without hooking up the spring bars or just purchase a standard ball and shank of the correct height. Additionally you could install an "air bag" suspension kit to adjust the ride height and distribute some of the load forward so your rear end doesn't sag and your front end doesn't end up riding high. Some members here have done this and you can check one out at Air Lift Vehicle Suspension for Toyota 4Runner 2007 - AL60809

2. You can definitely buy an aftermarket weight distributing hitch receiver. I ended up paying someting in the $135 range for mine after rebate. I purchased the Draw-Tite one Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch for Toyota 4Runner 2007 - 75155, had e-trailer.com match the lowest price I could find elsewhere and then sent in for the $30 rebate that was being offered. If you go this route you'll have the best possible solution since towing with a weight distributing hitch - receiver combo is as good and as safe as it gets.

3. I don't think there's any need to trade up to a V8 Runner to tow a 3300 lb trailer. Sure, it will tow it a bit easier but I've never found the engine to be the limiting factor. Instead, I tow pretty high and pretty steep during the peak summer heat and I have to keep speeds down to keep the transmission cool. Two advantages of the V8 are that they come with a weight-distributing hitch receiver and a secondary transmission oil cooler already installed.

Additional notes, if you do not have an aftermarket transmission cooler and you plan on towing, get one, plain and simple. The V6 does NOT come with an aux cooler and having one makes quite a difference in the temps I see via my ScanGaugeII http://www.toyota-4runner.org/towing...evelation.html

One more thing if you haven't considered it yet: Do you have electric or hydraulic (surge) brakes on the trailer? I converted my Jayco from surge to electric brakes and couldn't be more satisfied with the upgrade.

Thought I would post on this really old thread, since I was looking into a WD hitch. Mine does have the sticker with weights listed (v8).

Weight bearing = 7300 total / 750 tongue
With WD hitch = 7300 total / 1095 tongue

I was aware of the higher weight for the V8 but not the higher allowed tongue weight for the V8 with the WD hitch. Makes me think I have more margin than I thought when towing the heavy (for a 4Runner) loads that I've started doing. Thanks for the heads up!

@OrdnanceMarine - do you have an install thread for your B&M tranny cooler ?

I think this was it. I attached mine differently and both my supply and return lines both pass through the frame hole on the right and I lined the hole by splitting some extra transmission hose and placing it over the sharp metal edge for protection. Two years later it looks great and is doing exactly what I need it to. I'd recommend this mod to everyone with a V6 that does any towing, off roading or extended climbs in hot temps.

Transmission Cooler Install

Any major difference between the Hayden and B&M coolers?

Where did you install the P3 controller?

I don't remember why I chose the B&M over the Hayden. I see two B&M 70268 coolers at Amazon under "used" stating that packaging may be damaged or repackaged for under $44.

I installed my P3 just above/forward of where my right knee sits when I drive. I'm a little concerned about the damage that will happen to my knee if I ever get in a forward collision so I'd probably consider a slightly different location, maybe a few inches higher but the options were limited unless I wanted to splice extensions on the wiring harness to move it to the cupholder area and relocate my cupholders. I'd probably spend a little longer thinking about where to mount it than I did but having it just above my knee means it is very visible and easy to manually activate the brakes or change a setting while underway.

Thanks for heads up on the B&M coolers.

Is the p3 small enough to fit in the storage compartment under the HVAC controls?