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View Poll Results: Do you run 1 (+ve) only or both (+ve & -ve)?
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1 wire, +ve only, and ground the -ve to chassis
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5 |
83.33% |
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1 wire, +ve only, and ground the -ve to chassis
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5 |
83.33% |
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2 wires, both +ve and -ve, going from device to battery
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1 |
16.67% |
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2 wires, both +ve and -ve, going from device to battery
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1 |
16.67% |
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09-08-2015, 07:37 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
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Electrical Wiring(lights, fridge, etc.) - 1 wire or 2 wires
When wiring up your offroad lights (Rigids etc...), fridges (ARB or so), compressor, and maybe a winch, do you patch both +ve and -ve wires directly from your power source (battery) OR do you only run the +ve wire and then depending on the vehicle's body to be the ground (chassis ground), ie. just tie -ve of your device to the closest ground point?
I just want to see what you guys have done and what you guys think?
Running 1 wire is easier than 2.... per device (especially if you have more than a few of them) :-)
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2015 SR5 Premium 4x4 / 3rd row seat
Jicko's Build & Adventure Thread
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09-09-2015, 12:51 AM
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#2
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Just a suggestion but have you considered running an auxiliary fuse box . Not for the winch obviously , but for all the smaller draw circuits . I have about a dozen separate circuits on my truck , yup it all started with off road lights . You're going to have a rats nest of hot leads coming off your pos. terminal as the mods add up.
And I do a chasis ground when possible ...
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09-09-2015, 01:35 PM
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#4
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Switch box I made.
One positive in, one ground out, and wires to the lights.
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09-11-2015, 07:03 PM
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#5
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Elite Member
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There is no reason to run a ground to the battery on a 4Runner. Find a factory ground point and use it.
Running grounds to the battery on a fiberglass boat? Yes. 4Runner? No.
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HERE FISHY FISHY FISHY!
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09-14-2015, 02:38 AM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weyland-Yutani
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Nice but very pricy solution.
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2015 SR5 Premium 4x4 / 3rd row seat
Jicko's Build & Adventure Thread
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09-14-2015, 06:08 PM
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#8
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But less headache running all the wiring to switches and I can keep it near stock inside the truck. You can use their console and also there is a phone option to connect to the Spod.
Of course this involves me spending money on buying the lights I would like to install on the truck.
LED Rock Lights | ATV / UTV | Jeep | Rock Crawlers | Truck Bed Lighting - like to divide these into front, rear, hood and under car so that would take up some slots on the spod. I love that you can just magnet them to whatever metal you want.
Plus the grille install with a 20 inch light and maybe another set of lights on a Gobi in the future. My wife likes the fold out tent idea so I maybe going that route someday.
Since Iceland took all my savings I have to count on the group buys 
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2015 Toyota 4Runner Trail with KDSS- Silver - No mods (yet)
Please support group buys - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/group-buys/
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09-15-2015, 01:02 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Antman
There is no reason to run a ground to the battery on a 4Runner. Find a factory ground point and use it.
Running grounds to the battery on a fiberglass boat? Yes. 4Runner? No.
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So, for powering the fridge in my cargo area, all I need is a single HOT 12 or 14 gauge wire? (assuming 20ft, with a max of 15A, 14 gauge should be good enough... even 16 should be ok....) and ground to any chassis ground point?
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2015 SR5 Premium 4x4 / 3rd row seat
Jicko's Build & Adventure Thread
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09-15-2015, 05:37 AM
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#10
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I am working on a custom Fuse and Relay box solution. 
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09-15-2015, 06:04 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc2012
Switch box I made.
One positive in, one ground out, and wires to the lights.
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need moar switches
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'My needle always settles between west and southwest. The future lies that way to me, and the earth seems more unexhausted and richer on that side.' - Thoreau, sort of.
The Grey Bastard, 1985 4Runner, driveway ornament.
Utah DesertRunners T4R, for all things wheeling and 4Runner in Utah.
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09-15-2015, 07:27 AM
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#12
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Elite Member
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jicko
So, for powering the fridge in my cargo area, all I need is a single HOT 12 or 14 gauge wire? (assuming 20ft, with a max of 15A, 14 gauge should be good enough... even 16 should be ok....) and ground to any chassis ground point?
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No way man! Run some 10 or even 8 gauge back there for that fridge. The numbers will tell you that smaller gauge wire will work, but in real life you will not be happy with the performance of the fridge with such small wire. 20ft is a long run too.... Tons of supporting evidence to back this up on the all conquering internet too, lol.
Seriously though, 10 minimum, 8 would be slightly overkill but better.
Use a similar sized ground wire. Keep the ground to the chassis as short as possible.
The more efficient your wiring, the more efficient the fridge will be!
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09-15-2015, 08:03 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KidVermicious
need moar switches
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Trust me.
Getting moar.
Took a page out of blcktpgsr's book, and am making a overhead panel, going to wire it for the winch, lights, and whatever else i can think of.
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"We are experts in the application of violence."
-LtCol Christian Cabannis, Camp Letherneck, Afghanistan, 2009. The "Summer of Decision."
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