06-02-2019, 11:36 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
Posts: 9
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowgoat
How often do you Fluid Film?
I got mine Ziebarted, but didn't know any better. I just saturate everything with Fluid Film and am hoping for the best.
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I do mine annually for the first few years and then every other year. Early spring here in MI is the worst for rust.
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06-02-2019, 11:39 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
Posts: 9
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07
I’ve never been more grateful to have a garage and live in a place where true winter weather is rare. Seems the oil-based treatments would smell awful. Is there an issue with that?
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Fluid film smells like a wet sheep when its applied. Not kidding, it lanolin based. Some people hate the small. I actually dont mind it. Completely goes away after a few days.
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06-02-2019, 11:45 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
Posts: 9
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Lapeer County Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtvt
It's funny that Mass, where I drive often, puts more salt down per mile than any other state but has very few shops that specialize in undercoating. Must be enough money coming out of Boston where they just throw 'em away and buy a new one every 5-10 years.
The good thing about the method here is that when heated, the mix applies and penetrates like oil, but when cool resists wash-off like wax, and doesn't chip. Definitely get coated in grime working on it though, was covered after upgrading my hitch today.
I don't know what Zeibart is but my friend, who still uses Fluid Film although he swears he's going to do this method one of these years, applied it twice last winter. There will generally be bare spots on low areas of your chassis after a month, depending on weather and miles driven.
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I'm going to give your mix a try. Seems like it would work well and like the idea of the wax and oil combo.
Ziebart is a hard time under coating that is sprayed on. It has the consistency and texture of spray on bedliner. It makes the vehicle impossible to work on. Unless the applicator literally caps or protect ever nut and bolt under the vehicle. It was very popular in the 80s and then people started figuring out that after time, it chips off, allows moisture and dirt to get under it, the causes worse rust issues.
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06-02-2019, 05:15 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Cherokee Co., GA
Posts: 2,754
Real Name: Russell (OB #9908)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich4x4
Fluid film smells like a wet sheep when its applied. Not kidding, it lanolin based. Some people hate the small. I actually dont mind it. Completely goes away after a few days.
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I’ve used the rattle-can version but can imagine the odor is a lot stronger when it’s being slathered on the frame.
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04-23-2021, 09:52 AM
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#20
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Member
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ohio
Age: 72
Posts: 128
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ohio
Age: 72
Posts: 128
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Like Fluid Film, Wool Wax is a lanolin based undercoating/rustproofing/ lubricant. The installer says the odor from Wool Wax is much less offensive than Fluid Film. He said it is thicker and needs touched up every 2-3 years vs. every year for FF. It also comes in black. Like FF it never dries and continues to “creep” into the nooks and crannies. Mine has been on 2 weeks and is as wet as the day it was applied. It doesn’t encapsulate the existing rust like Zeibart rubberized “coating” it adheres to it and inhibits any further rust development. I am very impressed with this product and I am certain it will prolong the structural integrity of my beloved ‘07 V8 Limited.
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Last edited by dano; 04-23-2021 at 09:55 AM.
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04-23-2021, 04:43 PM
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#21
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 637
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Join Date: Feb 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mich4x4
Fluid film smells like a wet sheep when its applied. Not kidding, it lanolin based. Some people hate the small. I actually dont mind it. Completely goes away after a few days.
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hmmmm...I'm not going to ask how you know what a wet sheep smells like..
Im glad I live in TN and dont have to deal with all of that was mess. That stuff must attract a lot of road grime and make underbody repairs pretty messy. But I can certainly understand the value of the extra protection.
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Last edited by lewdog998; 04-23-2021 at 04:45 PM.
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04-23-2021, 06:55 PM
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#22
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Is this just for people where salt is used in the winter?
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04-23-2021, 08:09 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Ohio
Age: 72
Posts: 128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BorotHex
Is this just for people where salt is used in the winter?
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I would say yes. The northern states use various salt concoctions on the roads in the winter. That crap eats up the frames of countless vehicle...but Toyota trucks seem to be more prone to frame rot than other brands. My buddy deals in used Tacomas and flies to Arizona, Florida and southern Texas once or twice a year and brings back 20 year old Tacos that look virtually new underneath.
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04-23-2021, 08:12 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Central NY
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I guess if youre around a lot of salt water - drive on the beach a lot, back boats into saltwater etc, but otherwise salt on road is main problem
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04-23-2021, 08:18 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano
I would say yes. The northern states use various salt concoctions on the roads in the winter. That crap eats up the frames of countless vehicle...but Toyota trucks seem to be more prone to frame rot than other brands. My buddy deals in used Tacomas and flies to Arizona, Florida and southern Texas once or twice a year and brings back 20 year old Tacos that look virtually new underneath.
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I spent two periods of my life in western, then central, KY where the roads become mini salt flats sometimes. The Murano has always had a rear subframe rot issue that is terrible.
It’s disappointing from both Toyota and Nissan.
I live in Colorado now and assume my new 4Runner will be fine. I do undercarriage washes and wand washes several times a month when muddy out.
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10-24-2021, 05:56 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3
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Thanks for the awesome post, great info. I coated my truck about 3 years ago with this. I did 1lb of paraffin for 1gal bar and chain oil, and it worked great. Cheap and effective.
However, after 3 years, I noticed that it has attracted a lot of dust particles, especially around the wheel wells. Those areas are not as water repellent as cleaner areas, or as when it was fresh. If I scrape it, it looks like brown packed dirt in places. I am not sure if it is protecting as much as it did, and I am thinking I need to do something for the wheel well areas at least.
What do we do from here, after 3-4 years? Has anyone tried to spray a second coat over an old coat? How does a fresh coat go over a dirty old coat?
There are products that I believe might be better at not attracting dirt and resisting splash, various versions of cosmoline. The YouTube channel "repair geek" has some great testing and comparison on undercoatings, and I really like how cosmoline performed.
To change over to cosmoline though, I have read (and the sales rep told me) that it is necessary to clean the existing DIY waxoyl coating...Anyone knows how to clean the DIY waxoyl without spending 60hours under the truck?
Anyone has tried both DIY waxoyl and cosmoline, and can voice an opinion on a comparison?
Thanks again for all the great input guys and gals.
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10-24-2021, 08:10 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NH
Posts: 412
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That's pretty heavy on the wax, I've never gone above half that so can't say whether it'd still be working or not. On mine, the wheel wells are caked with dirt, when a friend tapped an area the other week a chunk fell off and it was fresh black paint underneath. But I do want to spray them down with a hose and redo them if I have time. Most everywhere else still looks mint, and it is still working by the wheels but starting to be absorbed by the dirt. Cosmoline is also wax and petroleum based, you should be able to pressure wash the loose areas and go right over it, I would think.
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10-26-2021, 09:57 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Ohio
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I started with 8oz of paraffin per gallon, but in the summer heat (85F) it was running down too much onto the driveway. So I finished with 16oz per gal, which has worked great. Its still tacky in most weather, and will "heal" when parked in the heated garage, but it stick better and doesn't absorb as much dirt over time. Cosmoline is likely high part paraffin per oil and works quite well, so I figure if my mix at ~30% paraffin ~70% oil is well in the OK range.
I can't get the coating to fall when tapping, its really stuck on there good. I also believe pressure washing would get it off, but it would take a while to even clean half the surface, given that its all weird angles under the truck...Re-spraying over it would be waaaay quicker than just the cleaning, just because spraying is much easier to handle for many reasons.
I would think that re-spraying right overtop the old coating would be better than nothing. Maybe re-spray every 4 years, then after 12-16years, pressure wash and start anew?
Last edited by icucicu; 10-26-2021 at 10:21 PM.
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10-27-2021, 10:00 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NH
Posts: 412
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Was meaning more of a hard rinse than actual pressure washing, to knock any loose crud off. If the costing is on there that well then it should be fine to just go over, or rinse and go over. I didn't clean anything when I touched up my diffs and a arms a year or 2 ago, no issues there since. Good luck
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10-29-2021, 12:58 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Washington
Posts: 16
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Anyone tried the new product from PB Blaster?
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