Hey guys,
I've had my King 2.5 kit for about 6 months. I don't know how long this has been happening so I couldn't tell you. I noticed a CV boot leak on both sides, but only on the side furthest from the wheel. It's a fairly mild lift (2.5") and I dropped the diff. I don't think it has to do with the choice of suspension maker, and I'm wondering who else has had this happen, and more importantly, how do I fix the issue???
Much appreciated guys!
How many miles? Chances are they were on their way out and doing a 2.5" lift just accelerated the leak. Your options are to regrease and replace the boots themselves or just replace the entire CV, depending on miles.
__________________ 2014 SR5P
5100s w/Dobinsons 302/505 springs - SCS F5s - 285/70 Wildpeak AT3W - Prinsu Full Length Rack - Smittybilt Gen 2 RTT - Full RCI skids - RSG sliders - Pedal Commander - Gobi ladder - Rago brackets and 32" LED light bar- TSO TRD Pro grille - 5k HIDs - ARB diff breather - other small stuff
Same thing happened when I had my lift done; one side stopped the other is still sweatin. Shop said that happens. Its the weak factory clamps. If you search for CV leak+lift, you'll find after market clamps that work much better. I haven't done anything with mine though....
when you make a U turn, do you turn it full lock because that's when it's at it's most stress. I have had my Icon 2.5 with about a 2 inch lift without a diff drop and no problems on the boot. I recall reading somewhere that it was to not fully lock on a turn.
Same thing happened when I had my lift done; one side stopped the other is still sweatin. Shop said that happens. Its the weak factory clamps. If you search for CV leak+lift, you'll find after market clamps that work much better. I haven't done anything with mine though....
Thanks WanderlostOverland and IRONLUNG,
Hopefully, it's as easy a fix for me. I might try my local shop first and see if they've got any aftermarket clamps to help with the problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pDubs
How many miles? Chances are they were on their way out and doing a 2.5" lift just accelerated the leak. Your options are to regrease and replace the boots themselves or just replace the entire CV, depending on miles.
The 4R had about 40K on it right before the lift, it's been 6 months since the install and it now has roughly 46K. I've not had a CV boot go bad after only 46K, but then again I've not had a lifted vehicle before.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToyRunner4Me
when you make a U turn, do you turn it full lock because that's when it's at it's most stress. I have had my Icon 2.5 with about a 2 inch lift without a diff drop and no problems on the boot. I recall reading somewhere that it was to not fully lock on a turn.
I try not to lock on a turn if possible, but sometimes it's necessary. Other thing I had installed are 1 1/4" spacers so the 275 KO2s are rubbing slightly against the wheel wells.
Guys,
If you've fixed your leak, did you do it yourself? And what did it take?
I got a rough quote from the shop and it was around $300 (parts not included). They said they would have to take the axle out, re-seat everything, and then throw on the clamps. I trust the shop but trying to get an idea if it's even necessary to do all that.
Thanks!!!
Guys,
If you've fixed your leak, did you do it yourself? And what did it take?
I got a rough quote from the shop and it was around $300 (parts not included). They said they would have to take the axle out, re-seat everything, and then throw on the clamps. I trust the shop but trying to get an idea if it's even necessary to do all that.
Thanks!!!
Not sure if you have KDSS which I do, but same concept. Sway bar clamp will need to be disconnected. Wheels remove of course, Lower ball joint. Tie rod. Brakes and calipers. The big nut. After all of that you can pull the spindle out to the side cause it will still be attach to the upper control arm. The CV itself will be exposed to where you can replace it yourself. You can cut the old boot. Put new grease in the new boot. Slide the new boot on and clamp it. Put everything back the way you took it out. Pretty much what they say they're going to do. It's not hard to do. Just time consuming. You will need someone to step on the brakes so you can torque the big nut down.
Not sure if you have KDSS which I do, but same concept. Sway bar clamp will need to be disconnected. Wheels remove of course, Lower ball joint. Tie rod. Brakes and calipers. The big nut. After all of that you can pull the spindle out to the side cause it will still be attach to the upper control arm. The CV itself will be exposed to where you can replace it yourself. You can cut the old boot. Put new grease in the new boot. Slide the new boot on and clamp it. Put everything back the way you took it out. Pretty much what they say they're going to do. It's not hard to do. Just time consuming. You will need someone to step on the brakes so you can torque the big nut down.
Thanks for the detailed steps. Honestly, I don't know if this is something I can tackle myself. I'm stopping by a shop that my offroad shop recommended. I'm not sure what the quote will be yet though.
Quick update...
I got a quote from a shop that specializes in axle rebuilds and whatnot. The damage is $280 parts and labors included. Thing is he's basically just going to replace the inner CV boot with one that is softer and change the clamp band. Other issue is scheduling time to get it done as I would have to take time off work.
So, I contacted my offroad shop to see what they can do. I've sent them the link to the band that
@WanderlostOverland
recommended. I'm hoping they'll get back to me soon.
Aren't these quotes of $2-300 for the work/parts about the same if you were to just replace the whole axle? If so, if just have them replace it........
Aren't these quotes of $2-300 for the work/parts about the same if you were to just replace the whole axle? If so, if just have them replace it........
I honestly don't know. Is it really that cheap to replace the axle? And, would the axle come with the CV boot kit? The offroad shop said the boot kit alone was like $75 (OEM), and I'm not even sure if that was both sides or just one.
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