I’ve been using PB blaster on my rusted 4Runner bolts as well, way more than I care to mention. It’s ridiculous! Kroil is a great penetrant as well, we use it at work. Spray before hand and let it sit.

One great piece of advice that I received from a long time mechanic is once you get the bolt to break free, while loosening if there is ANY resistance turn back the other way, spray again and then try to loosen. Keep going back and forth as needed. It is very time consuming, especially since every seized bolt I have seems to be an inch longer than it needs to be, ugh. That’s kept me from twisting off and breaking even more bolts than I already have which is a fair amount.

Good luck in solving the issue.

The video that the original poster mentioned was this one:
Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out! - YouTube

That video is interesting, not only from the conclusions, but also from the rigorous home-brew scientific approach to testing. His (Project Farm Channel) other comparison videos show similar originality.

I wound up choosing Liquid Wrench + time, based on his comparison.

That was to deal with a rear shock bolt going upwards into the frame of a 2004 Jeep Wrangler, where the head snapped off and the sheer point was inside the frame. (Almost a perfect storm of worst-case). So, in addition to the penetrating oil this required some drilling upside down at an odd angle, plus a good quality 'EZ Out'.

At least I didn't have to resort to taking the body off of the frame to remove this bolt...

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yes, just a little humor!

i advocate the "back and forth" method as well. forcing it forward will usually end up breaking the bolt. penetrating fluid, back and forth, and go slow.

Heat

I was watching a video disassembling model A engine and they were using one of these around the 2:0 minute mark. Too expensive probably for your situation but it does work.

Ford Model A 4-cylinder engine rebuild time-lapse | Redline Rebuilds - S3E4 - YouTube

How to remove rusted bolts or nuts in less than a minute - iDtools

With a torch you will need to heat it to red in order to have heat work.

WOW! That is one very bent bolt. You must have worked hard to get it out.

Not quite as bent as it appears in the picture. Trying to figure out the angle to drill into the broken bolt from underneath was a challenge, and I was pretty happy to get it close to the correct alignment. When I pulled it out, I found I'd only just barely grazed the threads of the receiving captive nut. Chased the opening with a tap, and the replacement bolt went in smoothly.

Hopefully you don't have to go to these extreme measures.

As other folks have mentioned, a good penetrating oil (not regular WD-40) + time + plus some vibration/shock/back&forth hopefully will be the ticket to solving your issue. The exact brand of oil (because everyone has their own favorite) may be less crucial than the time to penetrate factor. The one from this picture took me two weeks to take out. Much of that time was allowing the oil to soak in, the rest was in figuring out some new words to add to my already extensive "automotive vocabulary"...

yes, I am letting the nut/bolt soak in penetrating oil for 3 days so far. Looked today for Liquid Wrench but it was no where to be found.

Dr. says it'll be another 10-12 days before I can use my right wrist again, so no time is wasted by letting the nut/bolt soak.

At minimum, I'll remove the radiator plastic shroud to give me more room to work.

My rusty trusty 1977 FJ40 likes it when I use Mouse Milk.

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We use talon rust breaker at work and i will spray bolts a few days before tackling something on the truck. usually heat and in/out method with a impact gun get most bolts out.

i met a lot of rust bolts when working on mine, i used heat to remove them and works like a charm, then after heating them, i rest them in white vinegar for 1 night and brush them following day with iron brush, most get back to a fantastic shape

I finally got that stubborn nut off the alternator locking bolt. Sprayed WD-40 on it twice/day for a week. Even then I had to use a 12' breaker bar.

Thanks, guys for all the tips.

There is a Toyota dealer, that I COULD have the T4R towed to , but their prices for such work is completely open ended.





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