Its on the driver side of the differential about half way up. Of course the skid plates must be removed to see it.

Anyone have the torque values for the front and rear diffs (fill & drain). I believe it is 27 ft/lb (fill & drain) for the transfer case, but don't have any for the diffs.

For the 4wd models: drain plug 48 ft-lbs & the fill plug is 29.

For the 2wd models: both are 36 ft-lbs.

This comes from my 2003 Factory Service Manual.
I believe that 48 ft-lbs is a lot, so I just torque them both at 30 ft-lbs. I used the fiber washers rather than the metal crush rings.

You can just use some common sense on this for those that do not have a torque wrench.

does anyone have a pictured how to on this? I have had my 4Runner for less than a month and am clueless to its maintenance.

Thanks in advance.

David

Yeah, 48lbs seems a bit much. I think I'll just go with about 30lbs myself.

SHock-D

Check this link: http://www.4runners.org/articles/difftsf/

Stealer and others wanted big money to do the diffs and transfer case oils. I was able to do all 3 (with the bonus of using Mobil 75W90 synthetic gear oil) for less than C$90.00 plus tools.
Thanks to all for the hints on using a marine pump (bought one at Canadian Tire), oil quantities and the torque values.

Just so I can justify all the $$$ spending that this forum stimulates, how much did the stealer want to do the job?

Dealer actually was reasonably priced at first glance. Two diffs (C$30.95) and transfer case (C$32.95) with regular lube actually looks like a bargain compared to lube shops that want ~$50 x 3 ($85 x 3 with synthetic.)
But the catch is the price is imbedded in the "Required Services" section of a 64,000 Km regular service interval that totals $433.65 + 15% tax = C$498.70!. Almost 500 smackers and I still don't have synthetic. But I do have the pleasure of knowing they also did the engine coolant ($94.95), cabin air filter ($46.95) and lubed the prop shaft ($17.95.) I almost forgot, that includes a regular oil change and all kinds of checks and inspections. Give me a break! I did all this for the cost of lubes (Mobil 1 5W30 engine and 75W90 gear oils) and parts (MicronAir filter; Toyota brand coolant, oil filter, crush washers.) Total incl. tax C$211.93.
Plus I had the pleasure of DIY and getting to know the truck rather than the pleasure of walking funny (either from the lighter wallet or the shaft or both) after sitting bored in the stealership service lounge. The least they could do is provide dancing girls and cold drinks with umbrellas for that kind of money!

In the owners manual, it states that the v6 diffs take 75w-90, but the v8s take 80w-90 (or straight 90 in -18 or above).

Is it ok to use 75w-90?

I just ordered 75w-90 from amsoil by mistake. I only saw the v6 fluid requirements. duh!

I know the first number(75 or 80) is for the lower temerature rating... How does this affect in warmer temp? Is there any difference between the two (protection, drivability, etc.)?

Thanks

That's what I put in mine over a year ago and have had no problems....

Ricky

You'll be fine!

Koz

Does everyone agree that the front and rear diffs and t-case all use different crush washers? I stopped by the stealer today and had the usual "Twilight Zone" experience with the parts guy.

I explained that I was changing the fluids in my rear diff, front diff and transfer case and that I needed the appropriate crush washers. He comes back with one washer. Then I explain that I was under the impression that both the drain and fill plug each needed a crush washer, so he comes back with one more. Then I explain that I need two for each diff and the t-case and he finally catches on and gives me six total.

Then I asked whether he was certain that they were all supposed to be the same exact part. He said "I checked with the Tech and this is what you need."

If I need to make a 100 mile round trip to the dealer to return these washers for different ones, I am going to be pretty ticked off, especially because I did all I could (short of knowing the part numbers ahead of time) to make sure they knew exactly what I needed.

Where do they get these guys?

If I remember it correctly, at least 2 sets were different.

I had to figure out which was which and could tell them apart only after removing the washers.

At least one set was crush washers and the others were not.

I remember that one washer had a kind of felt material.

Sorry to be so unspecific, but I really don't remember too well.

If it makes you feel better, I was as confused as you were when I left the dealer.

btw. some of the washers (flast ones) looked new even when I took them off. You should still chage them, though.

I have reused the metal washers two before. They will not leak. There is a possibility that they will weep after reuse but they will never leak to where a puddle will form on the ground.

I bought a package of ten of the fiber washers, from the dealer. They fit the oil pan drain plug and a couple of other places I believe. I also bought a second package of larger fiber washers, but I have not checked to see what they might fit.

I have done two complete fluid changes on the following so far: both diffs, tranny, transfer case, and radiator. Once at 30 k miles and once at 63 k miles. I will use all new fiber washers on the above, on the next change.

I am about to change over these fuilds and have nver done this before. It seems pretty straight forward, but a few questions regardless. If I wanted to put synthetic in my diff and t case, what do I need to do besides drain out the regular oil that is alreayd in there? I assume there will still be some regular oil left in there regardless of how long I let it drain, so will putting in the synthetic and having these two essentially mix create a problem or can the exist in harmony?

This is the original fluid from 122K so anything at this point will help but I want to do it right.
Also, some guys seem to be changing out their washers, but with no leaks at all, I can just go ahead and reuse the ones that are alreaydy there right?

Also, I have done some work under my 4 runner without jacking it up and it's quite easy to do. Does this need to be done? It seems they could easily be done with the runner on the ground.

Thanks everyone.