09-28-2005, 06:54 PM
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#16
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RL Lemke, a couple of questions....
How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?
Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?
Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?
Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?
Great looking installation.
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09-28-2005, 08:13 PM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
RL Lemke, a couple of questions....
How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?
Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?
Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?
Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?
Great looking installation.
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Excellent question. I was wondering the same thing. I was also wondering how practical it would be in a cold climate to have to wait for the oil and engine to warm up. Two+ gallons of oil is a lot, and I wonder if it would actually be hard on the engine in the winter due to a longer warming period.
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09-28-2005, 10:47 PM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
RL Lemke, a couple of questions....
How long does it take the bp filter to hit operating temperature?
Does it warm up in the same amount of time to warm up every time, given similar conditions?
Does the bp filter depend on the pressure delta in the ff filter to return oil back to the down stream side?
Are there any moving parts in the filter mount?
Great looking installation.
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1) Warm-up time? Well, I live in Texas, and it's still summer. So...........
2) Bypass filter design? Don't know. http://www.amsoil.com
3) Moving parts on the mount? Sure hope not as I used a lot of epoxy. Of course, the hoses provide flexibility should I have some bumper-action. At the local Amsoil distribution they have a cut bypass filter kit to look at. If I recall right there is a spring inside the filter plate. I'll have to look closer when next I am there.
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Dallas, Texas
2004 4Runner Sport Edition
Last edited by RL Lemke; 09-28-2005 at 11:56 PM.
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09-28-2005, 10:59 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Obadiah
Excellent question. I was wondering the same thing. I was also wondering how practical it would be in a cold climate to have to wait for the oil and engine to warm up. Two+ gallons of oil is a lot, and I wonder if it would actually be hard on the engine in the winter due to a longer warming period.
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Cold climate? Well, I am from Nebraska so I do know from cold.
I would suspect that the superior immediate lubrication qualities of the Amsoil 0-30, more than make-up for any increased volume. Remember, that Porsche and other auto makers use 9+ quarts of engine oil.
In deed there are three warm-up factors to consider: 1) The expansion of all metal parts to their operational size; 2) Water temperature; and 3) Oil temperature.
I find that regardless of outside temperature, I let the water temperature rise to the normal range for minutes before pressing the engine in any way. When I head to Nebraska to visit family over Christmas, I wait several minutes after the water temperature normalizes before asking much from the engine.
I pity the fools that I hear revving cold engines.
In addition to the engine, I have switched to synthetic in the transfer case and differentials. Synthetic gear oil has a superior operational temperature range, and even better it doesn
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RL
Dallas, Texas
2004 4Runner Sport Edition
Last edited by RL Lemke; 09-28-2005 at 11:01 PM.
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09-28-2005, 11:11 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koz
Not for nothing but why did you install this system? It has been proven that you can safely go 10K miles on quality synthetic oil without a bypass. The Amsoil 0w-30 is rated to go 35K miles or 1 year without a bypass. Then again, some people are wasting their money changing their synthetic oil at 3-5K miles. Whatever!
Koz
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Texas driving is considered severe duty by every manufacturer.
http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/...vals_640px.gif
I realize that this is in conflict with this from the Series 2000 0-30 web page: SERVICE LIFE
In personal cars and light-duty trucks with non-turbocharged gasoline engines: drain oil at 35,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first.
AMSOIL Oil Filters should be changed at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals (whichever comes first) in gasoline engines. Non-AMSOIL oil filters should be changed at the engine manufacturer's recommended filter change intervals.
I'll just stick with a happy middle-ground and change everything at 10,000 miles. It's not that much $$ when compared to the use I am getting from my 4Runner.
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Dallas, Texas
2004 4Runner Sport Edition
Last edited by RL Lemke; 09-28-2005 at 11:25 PM.
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09-29-2005, 11:24 PM
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#21
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How long does it take for the bp filter to feel hot to the touch. When the ff filter just gets hot, is the bp filter cooler to the touch?
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09-30-2005, 07:44 AM
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#22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Larry
How long does it take for the bp filter to feel hot to the touch. When the ff filter just gets hot, is the bp filter cooler to the touch?
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I only checked with the initial installation. The regular filter got warm quickly, and the bypass filter was close behind. Both filters were installed filled with oil.
When I change the oil next time, I'll check again.
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Dallas, Texas
2004 4Runner Sport Edition
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09-30-2005, 09:00 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally posted by RL Lemke
Texas driving is considered severe duty by every manufacturer.
http://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/...vals_640px.gif
I'll just stick with a happy middle-ground and change everything at 10,000 miles. It's not that much $$ when compared to the use I am getting from my 4Runner.
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RL Lemke,
Are you changing the oil also at 10K?
Koz
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10-01-2005, 09:54 AM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koz
RL Lemke,
Are you changing the oil also at 10K?
Koz
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Yes, that is the plan.
Have you received any oil analysis results yet?
I know that the oil will last a lot longer than 10,000 miles. My concern is the breaking of the long-chain molecules as I drive. I want the very best engine protection. The first step was the addition of the bypass filter to remove the smallest contaminants. The second step is to use the very best oil, and to keep it fresh.
An oil analysis looks at what is suspended in the oil, not the oil itself. I am keen on keeping that Amsoil created long-chain molecule doing its job. By the time the oil shows higher metal, there is already wear.
Am I wasting money, changing oil this often? When compared to how long I own a vehicle, and the desire for ultimate reliability, I don
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2004 4Runner Sport Edition
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10-01-2005, 09:57 AM
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#25
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Here is a photo from my weekend job. This "road" is miles from anything paved.
Sorry, no photos of me stuck in Dallas traffic with the 4Runner outdoor temp guage showing 100+ degrees.
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10-01-2005, 04:16 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally posted by RL Lemke
Yes, that is the plan.
Have you received any oil analysis results yet?
I know that the oil will last a lot longer than 10,000 miles. My concern is the breaking of the long-chain molecules as I drive. I want the very best engine protection. The first step was the addition of the bypass filter to remove the smallest contaminants. The second step is to use the very best oil, and to keep it fresh.
An oil analysis looks at what is suspended in the oil, not the oil itself. I am keen on keeping that Amsoil created long-chain molecule doing its job. By the time the oil shows higher metal, there is already wear.
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I have not yet reached my first filter change (Truck was in the body shop from accident).
Synthetic oils are not purified, but rather designed within a lab for lubrication purposes, it is comprised of molecules of uniform size and shape. Therefore, even if synthetic oil does burn a little, the remaining oil has the same chemical characteristics that it had before the burn off. There are no smaller molecules to burn-off and no heavier molecules to leave behind.
If you change the oil at 10K miles you will be throwing money in the toilet (alot of money, cost of bypass and over 2 gal oil expensive oil). The whole purpose of the bypass is to provide super clean oil all the time, so you can extend the change intervals. At 10K miles you will be throwing away oil that is as good as new. I suggest that at 10K miles BEFORE dumping the oil, change the FF filter, top it off, and have it analyzed.
You could run Amsoil 0w-30 for 35K miles (with filter changes) WITHOUT a bypass. Why would you install a bypass when you are going to change the oil at 10K miles?
Koz
Last edited by Koz; 10-03-2005 at 09:31 AM.
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10-24-2005, 12:02 AM
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#27
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And now for the sixty four dollar question. Do you know how your dual remote with a bypass works, what the spring and valve do and how the bypass returns oil back to a high pressure return line?
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10-24-2005, 12:08 AM
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#28
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10-24-2005, 12:16 PM
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#29
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The by-pass oil filter removes water and particles/contaminants smaller than one micron. It significantly increases the time oil can safely be left in the engine and virtually eliminating engine wear. It provides the best possible filtration protection against, oil degradation, rust and corrosion.
The oil approaches the by-pass filter first where there is a back pressure valve located just before the full flow filter. This spring loaded ball valve (I think Amsoil replaced the ball valve with a hollow tubular check-valve) forces about 10% of the oil to go through the by-pass filter and 90% of the oil passes through the full flow filter. The by-pass oil filters filter all the oil in a six-quart system in about five minutes at an average speed of 45 mph. The by-pass filter filters all the oil in the system several times an hour, so the engine continuously receives analytically clean oil.
Koz
Last edited by Koz; 10-25-2005 at 06:51 AM.
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11-21-2005, 11:22 AM
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#30
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Install q's
RL Lemke,
I'm going to do this install soon. I'm following the writeups from both you and Koz. Thanks to you both, BTW, for putting these on the forum (and inspiring me to spend more money on my 4runner).
I'm going to drill and use bolts as you did for installing the adapter plate.
What size whole did you drill in the bumper?
Did you use a washer on the inside of the bumper to ensure the bolt heads are secure?
Things I should be particularly careful about?
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