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Old 06-14-2015, 07:58 AM #61
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I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but for drying towels nothing beats dry me crazy from microfiber madness, this towel is amazing. Also a electric leaf blower helps a lot with drying time and especially with getting water out of the nooks and crannies. If you have trouble with water spots, take to the car with a detail spray and microfiber cloth mmediately after drying and those spots will disappear. If you have really bad water spots that won't come out, get a bottle of carpro spotless, stuff is magic for removing spots.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:07 AM #62
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Leaf blowers ingest ambient air and particles around you and concentrate into stream. It may help drying the car but it also adds dust to clean surface. Use silicone squeegee to remove large water spots.

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Old 06-16-2015, 03:01 AM #63
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Never had my electric leaf blower leave dust on my car, always spotless when I'm done. The less contact with the paint you make the better, even that squeegee has the potential to scratch the paint, you are better off with a large drying towel like the Dry me Crazy. I learned the hard way on my black camaro with ridiculously soft paint.
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Old 08-02-2015, 07:30 PM #64
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Old 09-03-2015, 01:54 PM #65
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Very good info thanks
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Old 11-04-2015, 02:20 PM #66
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Hello, was going to start a thread on this, but forum wouldn't let me for some reason. Hopefully, somebody sees it here!

Just curious what folks are using to clean and take care of the Soft-Tek seats in the latest premium model 4Runners. Guess they are basically "synthetic" leather. Does a regular leather cleaner work for these too? Or is there another product that would be better.

Thanks for any info!
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:11 AM #67
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I would not use leather cleaner/conditioner on Soft-Tek seats. Try Lexol Vinyl and Plastic cleaner/protector instead.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:15 PM #68
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Quote:
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I would not use leather cleaner/conditioner on Soft-Tek seats. Try Lexol Vinyl and Plastic cleaner/protector instead.
Thanks!
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:19 PM #69
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Proactive damage control

Back in my younger days, I restored several Austin Healeys and Jags. Two went on to concours competition. One annoying and expensive part was smudged over, cruddy dash control knobs. I actually made tiny cloth covers for them when I was driving them. Flash forward. Now, in all of my vehicles, particularly in my baby 06 Limited, i'm always careful to push the unpainted portion of the knobs to preserve the white lettering. Pretty anal eh ? But the dash looks mint.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:08 PM #70
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So how often do you really sit down and do a full clean vs just power wash all the dirt off. I plan on going every other weekend or something so it's not really feasible to spend a whole day washing my truck every week. Biggest problem I have, apart from having a black truck, is the water dries out faster that I can get to wash and dry an area here in Phoenix and with the hard water here it spots very easily (black again is tough). Anyone know a good reliable truck detailing place in Phoenix that is good with trucks that like to get real dirty. Also, I have noticed that the inside of the engine compartment gets crazy dirty when I go through mud, it seems like the cooling fan picks it up and slings it everywhere, any solutions to limit that?
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:00 AM #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExploreABitMore View Post
Hello, was going to start a thread on this, but forum wouldn't let me for some reason. Hopefully, somebody sees it here!

Just curious what folks are using to clean and take care of the Soft-Tek seats in the latest premium model 4Runners. Guess they are basically "synthetic" leather. Does a regular leather cleaner work for these too? Or is there another product that would be better.

Thanks for any info!
I recommend going from least invasive first by using a microfibre dampened with plain water. If that's not enough, then try using a little Neutrogena bar soap (swipe your damp cloth across the bar to pick up a small amount and work the cloth until it suds) to remove the soil. The soap is pH balanced and will not harm or discolor the material. Of course, you have to follow with a soap free damp cloth to remove any residual soap.

I do not use any Detailing Products anywhere in my car's interior - ever. Some of the "cleaners/treatments" actually attack the surface which does effectively remove oxidation, but after exposure to heat and time, the surface will begin to look somewhat melted, less defined and give off a distinctively unpleasant smell. I think you'll know what I mean if you go any used car lot and look (and smell) the inside of a car/truck that's been "treated" with some that famous _______(fill in the blank) detailing product...

Last edited by arelendsee; 11-28-2015 at 10:04 AM. Reason: Re-phrase
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:15 AM #72
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Quote:
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I do not use any Detailing Products anywhere in my car's interior - ever. Some of the "cleaners/treatments" actually attack the surface which does effectively remove oxidation, but after exposure to heat and time, the surface will begin to look somewhat melted, less defined and give off a distinctively unpleasant smell. I think you'll know what I mean if you go any used car lot and look (and smell) the inside of a car/truck that's been "treated" with some that famous _______(fill in the blank) detailing product...
a light touch of 303 Protectant is ok in the interior. but less is more, really.
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:00 PM #73
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Quote:
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Leaf blowers ingest ambient air and particles around you and concentrate into stream. It may help drying the car but it also adds dust to clean surface. Use silicone squeegee to remove large water spots.

I owned one of these and quickly threw it away after the first use, drags way too much against the paint
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:10 PM #74
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Great informative thread BTW.

Some times a good car wash is necessary, to properly detail Northern cars & remove ugly sights of 4Sale rust.

Unsightly rust from steel licence plate bolts & iron bleed off / paint damage:


Novus was designed to remove windshield scratches, off Boeing 747's.
- I used bottle #3 containing abrasive grit, to remove rust stains


Loctite Extend (AutoZone can, in above photo) coating on rusted bolt heads, neutralize rust with a phosphate coating.
- after dry time, spray good primer on nut heads / Mar-Hyde single stage self etching primer, is very decent quality


End result - SOLD...

Last edited by Beaumont67; 01-04-2016 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:19 PM #75
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Dude! I should send you a pick of my late production 1999 Pathfinder. See what kind of "magic" you can do with the rust on it. BTW, I live near Kitchener, Ontario. Let's just say it is very religious.
Just a little comment on those silicon squeegees. Doesn't matter how clean you think your vehicle is, the squeegees leave tiny scratches in the paint. Still great for windows.
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