It may be a little crude but as long as it works. I wish we had enough rain in my area to make that sort of system feasible. Personally, I use deionized water via filtration through a resin:

Yeah I live in Central Tx. We were in a drought for a number of years but it does not take much to fill the barrel. I use the second barrel since it catches overflow from the first barrel so most of the trash ends up in first one. Then for good measure I have a pump that pressurizes a hose and I have the water go through a particulate filter for good measure. It's good because rinsing doesn't leave water spots.

....and very little cost to filter particulates.

Hi Steve,

I'm a long time user of 303 AP so I can relate to what you're talking about. However, I wouldn't be as concerned about wiping the surfaces you apply that product to. Doing so should help lessen the amount of transfer you are experiencing. After all, 303 recommends doing this. With AP it isn't necessary to apply it like you might with some dressings although you can for aesthetic purposes in some applications if you wish.

Having said that, for door seals I use a product from 1Z (Einszett) called Gummi Pflege. ....Wurth also had a product which I believe was the same. Anyhow, it comes in a small bottle with a sponge applicator that you use to moisten the seals. You let it dry completely before closing the doors, rolling up the windows, etc. Excellent product. BMW/dealers use to sell this stuff (perhaps still do) to help protect rubber seals on their cars. .....good product IMO/IME:

Hey guys new to the forum must say the sponge is a bad idea but its cool . I start with the tires seperate item. Then work on body top to bottom them finally glass

Do new vehicles benefit from waxing? Say, if I plan to wax (or polish/wax) twice a year, do I do my first wax job right after purchase or do I wait six months to wax for the first time?

Most dealers have kids in the detailing shop. I like to call it "dealer installed scratches". Tell them not to clean or wash the new car for delivery, that you'll do it yourself.

By the time a car makes it to the line for sale, the "airing" out period required for new paint has passed. Wax or seal it when you take delivery and get it home.

Look up Ammo NYC on Youtube. Larry has some really good and informative videos.

I have a 21 yr old sedan black.. original owner. I use a micro fiber auto wash mitt. on the wheels I use a soft long bristle brush for auto finishes. I use liquid gld auto car wash soap [small amount] and then I put on the water filter so that the water spots will not be an issue..

after wiping the paint down with microfiber towels I then apply the zymol liquid synthetic wax. this lasts about 6 months on a BLACK vehicle.

this type procedure should be a good way to start on protecting the finish.
over time I have had to use 3M finishing polish with a low speed buffer and a black foam finishing pad. the 21 yr old paint looks like glass mirror.

sounds good right ! well I have turkeys in my area so they see themselves in the reflection and peck at my ride .. you can't win !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Excellent. Thank you both, catrains and ZebRuaj.

I agree with Zeb. The wait period most folks hear about is typically related to those situations where the vehicle is painted in a body shop. Factory conditions are obviously different in that the paint is able to be cured during their process. The is no additional time needed for off-gassing when you take delivery.

The benefits of "waxing" (including any kind off last step product like a sealant, coating, etc.) can have several benefits. Most importantly (IMO/IME) it can help provide an added level of protection against contaminants including those that can potentially damage the underlying finish. Think of it as a kind of sacrificial layer. That's not to say the product will be impervious but it might make the difference in that bird bomb just being a nuisance vs. permanently etching your paint (providing the time needed to address it). If anything, a well maintained finish is much easier to clean. Contaminants will release easier, water will glide off, etc. Obviously, not all products are created equal and there are a lot of good ones out there. .....and a lot of bad. The trick is finding the products, tools and techniques that work for you.

Personally, I would suggest digging through some detailing forums like Autopia.org, Meguiars Online, Autogeek Forum, etc. to gather some ideas. I've been a member of Autopia for the last 15 years and found a wealth of information there during that time. It's where I usually visit when I'm looking for reviews on products or a new solution. .....good luck.

I was alarmed to spot a few rust specs on the tailgate of my 7 month old white ( blizzard pearl ) T4R this morning. Did some online research and it looks like Iron-X might be a good product to clean these up.

Have others here had good results with Iron-X, and any suggestions on where to buy in the Vancouver,BC or Bellingham,WA areas?

Thanks!

I always spray 303 onto a mf rag or sponge first before applying onto whatever surface you're trying to protect.

If you really want to make sure you don't get the protectant on a painted surface, use painters tape around the area you're trying to protect.

Put some masking tape on your plastic bits so some thing such as wax or polish don't stain it white

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You'll have to hit the dirty spots afterwords LOL!

Great post, the water here in San Marcos is super hard.