05-22-2015, 11:44 AM
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#1
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Atlanta, GA
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3rd gen scheduled/preventative maintenance
Hey guys, this seems like a topic that must've been beaten to death, but I'm not finding it.
I'm a new 2002 Sr5 2wd owner, got 170k and still shining and running like new. I love this truck! Anyway, I want to take care of it and make it last FOREVER
Are there any common problems with these trucks, things to look out for?
I think I'd mostly be worried about the transmission since I understand how everything else works and what everything else needs but not the black magic going on inside there.
I found the maintenance schedule from Toyota but honestly it's crap. http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docum...e/2002sche.pdf
It doesn't EVER say to replace the auto trans fluid, it just says "Inspect" every 30k miles and on the same interval, it says to replace the fluid if you are using the truck under the "special operating conditions". So when the hell am I supposed to change the fluid based on normal operating conditions? Sorry, I'm mad at this lackluster document that doesn't even schedule beyond 120k miles. I'm 50k over that and the truck is new to me! So yeah, that schedule is garbage, does anyone have something better?
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05-25-2015, 05:10 PM
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#2
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Albuquerque
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Real Name: Jesse
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Join us here friend!
3rd Gen FAQ, Tutorials, & Documentation Reference v2
To answer you question:
oem plugs and wires
pcv valve and grommet
front and rear sway bushings
change all fluids, I drained and filled my tranny (castrol IMV) when I installed my B&M 70264 AFT cooler. I would say these items should be at the top of your to do list!
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2016 Trail-P Dobinsons 302/325 DK Chromoly, 285 kO2, C4, RCI, BD Squad Sport, XD Phillips HID's, Tint, Husky liners, Crestone Rack
2020 Gx460
2000 Limited 4X4 - OME 881/890- B&M 70264
Overland Bound #10926
Last edited by ridefast; 05-25-2015 at 05:12 PM.
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05-26-2015, 10:00 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Atlanta, GA
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That's a fantastic resource!!!
I had the 70264 and the 70268 both pulled up, debating on which one to get. I suppose I'll get the 70264 since that seems to be what everyone else has done. 14,400 BTU vs 13,000 BTU respectively, I don't think the latter would be too small honestly.
Really glad to hear (and not surprised) there is a very short list of things that go wrong with these trucks. External ATF cooler is a super easy preventative measure to a super simple but super disastrous potential problem.
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12-05-2015, 06:03 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: N. Virginia
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I got my 3rd gen at 60k miles and did transmission fluid flushes every 40-60k miles and no problems so far. You may want to do just drain and refills using the same mileage intervals.
One of the posts here suggested fuel filter replacement around 120k miles.
Other than that, all fluids should be replaced every 3 years; so oil, coolant, transmission, brake, and power steering fluid.
Lower ball joints should be inspected regularly and replaced when they start wearing (you can find plenty of articles here why that's important).
Pink/strawberry milkshake prevention would warrant either an external transmission cooler with bypass of the radiator or a new radiator sometime after 100k miles.
Rear axle seals are the last weak spot on the 3rd gen. Regularly inspect them so they get replaced before more parts get ruined as a part of their failure.
As far as the manual goes, once you get to the highest mileage items, you just start the mileage counter for items. So, 90k miles for timing belt...180k miles for the next replacement. Hope this helps.
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12-15-2015, 11:55 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Texas
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I agree that Toyota's maintenance schedule is pretty unhelpful for those of us who want to keep our vehicles in good shape past 120k miles (at which point, the service information in the Owner's Manual ends).
My 2002 4Runner Ltd has just under 180k miles on it. The last major tune up I had on it was at 120k. Since then, other than having the oil changed regularly, the tires rotated (new in 2013), and a couple of "trip checks," I've just been taking care of issues as they arise (a little brake work, having the evap canister and radiator replaced). I want to change that by getting on a regular maintenance schedule, but I don't know what that should be. Suggestions very welcome--Thanks!
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04-22-2016, 09:52 AM
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#6
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NoVA T4R, thanks. I'm looking to maintain my '96 (original owner, almost 290k miles), and want to get on a schedule. Your post is what I'm looking for, but all fluids every 3 years sounds seldom. What would you say in mileage? How about transfer case, differential, plugs? Same as #5 "UrbanDirtFarmer" question for which I don't see an answer.
Thanks
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06-15-2016, 10:24 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinN
NoVA T4R, thanks. I'm looking to maintain my '96 (original owner, almost 290k miles), and want to get on a schedule. Your post is what I'm looking for, but all fluids every 3 years sounds seldom. What would you say in mileage? How about transfer case, differential, plugs? Same as #5 "UrbanDirtFarmer" question for which I don't see an answer.
Thanks
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Change your Engine Oil and Filter every 3000 miles unless you're using synthetic which will allow you to do it less frequently. I believe synthetic oils will allow you to change it up to as high as every 15,000 miles. Supposedly, with regular non-synthetic oil, changing your oil every 3000 miles is excessive since engine oil technology has improved a lot over the years and you can change it every 5000 - 7500 miles. For me, I'm going to stick with the old school suggested oil change frequency of 3000 miles because an oil and filter change isn't expensive and it's easy to do. And, I also believe the single best thing you can do for your engine is regular oil and filter changes.
Engine Coolant (Antifreeze) should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I just do a drain and refill of the radiator and I usually renew around 8 quarts of the 9.5 quart cooling system capacity.
Transmission Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. Since I just do a drain and refill of the pan and not a full flush, I change my trans fluid every 10,000 miles to keep the fluid in good shape. I renew around 5 quarts of the 12 quart capacity every drain and refill.
Power Steering Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I did several rounds of the turkey baster method of drawing out fluid out of the reservoir, replacing it with new fluid, and turning the wheel back and forth to cycle the fluid. Now that my fluid is looking clean, I plan on maintaining it by drawing out the fluid in the reservoir every engine oil change and replacing it with fresh fluid. With past vehicles, I never paid much attention to the power steering fluid but I'm going to do a much better job with my 4runner.
Transfer Case Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles.
Differential Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you have a 4wd 4runner and you don't use 4wd very often, you can change the front differential much less frequently. But, since it's simple and affordable to do, I just change the front differential fluid anyway when it's time to do the rear differential.
Greasing U-Joints and Slip Yokes should be greased every other oil change but giving them a little grease every oil change isn't going to hurt anything.
Air Filter should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles but more frequently if you're driving dusty fire roads or trails.
MAF Sensor should be cleaned every 30,000 miles but again more frequently if you've been driving a lot in dusty conditions.
Spark Plugs should be replaced around every 60,000 miles.
Brakes should be inspected every 30,000 miles, whenever you hear abnormal braking noise, or your brakes are pulling one way or the other.
Tires should be rotated and balanced every 5000 miles.
@ infamousRNR
and I have a video coming out soon that shows changing all the fluids, greasing the u-joints and slip yokes, inspecting the brakes and changing the air filter.
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09-28-2016, 10:55 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Real Name: Dom DiBaggio
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I have a 2003 4Runner 4WD V6. I got it with 174,000 miles and it now has 180,000. What service items should I be doing. I change the oil with Rotella 15W40 every 3k miles. I am going to service all the diffs and transfer case this week and spark plugs as well. What else should be done? Coolant looks brand new.
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09-29-2016, 01:58 PM
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#9
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I think the wires have about a lifespan of 100k, so if you're changing the plugs consider changing the wires as well (if they haven't been done).
Other things to consider:
-Frame/Rust preventative maintenance.
-Fuel filter.
-steering/brake fluid flush.
Always mentioned is the MAF/Throttle body.
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09-19-2018, 05:31 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Jan 2017
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What is the Youtube Channel??
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05-02-2020, 05:23 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Dec 2018
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Needed this post. I’m trying to make a high mileage schedule so this helps. I’m at 230k.
Looks like I have a couple things to do.
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"The powerful play goes on, and you shall contribute a verse" - Whitman | @jrapp.yo
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05-07-2020, 01:35 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Thanks for this. Got 305k on the Runner
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02-20-2021, 10:28 PM
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#13
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ok, i appreciate the research and development and manufacturing and parts specing/sourcing that goes into OEM parts. BUT WHY IN THE HELL do Toyota parts cost so much more than aftermarket parts??? Just priced parts for a tune-up on my 2000 4runner 3.4 V6 (plugs, wires, coil packs), and figured may as well replace the injectors while i was at it, as I would have to make the same tear-down for injector replacement that has to be done for a tune-up (appears the original injectors were still in service ay 240K miles, bless 'em). But $560 !!!???
I did some research/checking (semi-retired attorney, computer research has made me a lot of money) and found NEW injectors, spec dual electro plugs, 3 coil packs and wires, and the throttle body and plenum gaskets (necessary replacements when you take the fuel injection system apart to get to the coil packs and plugs), all for less than $200 delivered to my door, on Ebay.
Yes, I would rather buy from the dealer. Yes, I would love to have that close relationship with people I would like to depend on to maintain my daily transportation. Yes. I have bought a few beers for dealer service managers and dealer techs in my past years. And I have learned, and I am sure the reader knows, to build a $30K car from the parts sourced from the dealership parts department would cost $100K. A real pity, and an open secret.
I cut my teeth wrenching on '60s and '70s muscle and "fun" cars. After watching Timmy the Tool Man and a few other videos, I see nothing to prevent me from tuning up this little fuel-injected V6, but dealer parts prices are OUTRAGEOUS. I understand "Toyota reliability" that is engineered into, and expected from, the branded parts. But when shop managers tell me they regularly use Ebay parts to cut overhead, why should I pay dealer service prices for something I can do myself, with the same Ebay parts??
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09-05-2021, 03:40 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: El Cajon, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim
Change your Engine Oil and Filter every 3000 miles unless you're using synthetic which will allow you to do it less frequently. I believe synthetic oils will allow you to change it up to as high as every 15,000 miles. Supposedly, with regular non-synthetic oil, changing your oil every 3000 miles is excessive since engine oil technology has improved a lot over the years and you can change it every 5000 - 7500 miles. For me, I'm going to stick with the old school suggested oil change frequency of 3000 miles because an oil and filter change isn't expensive and it's easy to do. And, I also believe the single best thing you can do for your engine is regular oil and filter changes.
Engine Coolant (Antifreeze) should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I just do a drain and refill of the radiator and I usually renew around 8 quarts of the 9.5 quart cooling system capacity.
Transmission Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. Since I just do a drain and refill of the pan and not a full flush, I change my trans fluid every 10,000 miles to keep the fluid in good shape. I renew around 5 quarts of the 12 quart capacity every drain and refill.
Power Steering Fluid should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles. I did several rounds of the turkey baster method of drawing out fluid out of the reservoir, replacing it with new fluid, and turning the wheel back and forth to cycle the fluid. Now that my fluid is looking clean, I plan on maintaining it by drawing out the fluid in the reservoir every engine oil change and replacing it with fresh fluid. With past vehicles, I never paid much attention to the power steering fluid but I'm going to do a much better job with my 4runner.
Transfer Case Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles.
Differential Gear Oil should be changed every 30,000 miles. If you have a 4wd 4runner and you don't use 4wd very often, you can change the front differential much less frequently. But, since it's simple and affordable to do, I just change the front differential fluid anyway when it's time to do the rear differential.
Greasing U-Joints and Slip Yokes should be greased every other oil change but giving them a little grease every oil change isn't going to hurt anything.
Air Filter should be changed at a minimum every 30,000 miles but more frequently if you're driving dusty fire roads or trails.
MAF Sensor should be cleaned every 30,000 miles but again more frequently if you've been driving a lot in dusty conditions.
Spark Plugs should be replaced around every 60,000 miles.
Brakes should be inspected every 30,000 miles, whenever you hear abnormal braking noise, or your brakes are pulling one way or the other.
Tires should be rotated and balanced every 5000 miles.
@ infamousRNR
and I have a video coming out soon that shows changing all the fluids, greasing the u-joints and slip yokes, inspecting the brakes and changing the air filter.
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Thank you! I got a 99 for the wife with 264k Last week. We got Minimal maintenance records with it so I have been wanting to go through virtually Everything. The timing belt and plugs were done at 215k so Im going to wait until 290-300k when I do the timing/h20. Thanks for the schedule details on the Rest!
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09-21-2021, 08:23 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Harrisburg PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoxToy00
ok, i appreciate the research and development and manufacturing and parts specing/sourcing that goes into OEM parts. BUT WHY IN THE HELL do Toyota parts cost so much more than aftermarket parts??? Just priced parts for a tune-up on my 2000 4runner 3.4 V6 (plugs, wires, coil packs), and figured may as well replace the injectors while i was at it, as I would have to make the same tear-down for injector replacement that has to be done for a tune-up (appears the original injectors were still in service ay 240K miles, bless 'em). But $560 !!!???
I did some research/checking (semi-retired attorney, computer research has made me a lot of money) and found NEW injectors, spec dual electro plugs, 3 coil packs and wires, and the throttle body and plenum gaskets (necessary replacements when you take the fuel injection system apart to get to the coil packs and plugs), all for less than $200 delivered to my door, on Ebay.
Yes, I would rather buy from the dealer. Yes, I would love to have that close relationship with people I would like to depend on to maintain my daily transportation. Yes. I have bought a few beers for dealer service managers and dealer techs in my past years. And I have learned, and I am sure the reader knows, to build a $30K car from the parts sourced from the dealership parts department would cost $100K. A real pity, and an open secret.
I cut my teeth wrenching on '60s and '70s muscle and "fun" cars. After watching Timmy the Tool Man and a few other videos, I see nothing to prevent me from tuning up this little fuel-injected V6, but dealer parts prices are OUTRAGEOUS. I understand "Toyota reliability" that is engineered into, and expected from, the branded parts. But when shop managers tell me they regularly use Ebay parts to cut overhead, why should I pay dealer service prices for something I can do myself, with the same Ebay parts??
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So where did you end up getting the parts from?
Its about time for some love on my 2000 w/ 279k. I bought it in 2017 for 4.7k total - its always had high mileage to me. First off, I had the Toyota dealer inspect it when I first bought it. The only thing they found was a minor crack in the head, which I didn't do anything about. Already had the external transmission cooler when i bought it as well. The rad and transcooler didn't look brand new, but seemed to work fine. Ride was decent, no sag at all.
I've changed the oil 1-2 times per year and generally change the coolant at the same time.
Things I did when I purchased it (217k):
-oil change
-coolant flush + trans flush
-new spark plugs
-new battery
At 240k 1 year later (after I let someone borrow it for about 6 months and they put 30k miles on the damn thing.)
- water pump/timing belt (last interval was unknown)
- new upper and lower rad hoses
At 250k or so, 1 year later:
-new starter. The engine was taking alot to turn over and eventually it just wouldnt.
From 240k to now (279k) I've generally just kept up on oil/coolant changes.
I had some brake work done last year (~270k), and also had one of the hoses replaced in the bottom right of the block - I forget which one but I think it was an oil cooling hose. It appeared there was coolant leaking out from near the clamp, so I had the dealer replace it. But the leak came back - then I traced it to actually being coolant that was leaking out from the top of the head (or least it appeared that way to me. Kind of like a mysterious coolant leak. I haven't seen any more coolant in that spot since then. Haven't taken a close look at the head either.
Mainly just new pads and rotors in the front and reset the drum brake things. Since I've owned it, its always ran strong and super consistent. The transmission shifted pretty damn smoothly when I got it and I generally "baby" it a lot when I drive it. I think lately however it sometimes doesn't shift as smoothly, but seems to function fine.
Currently its been parked for the past week with a hard brake pedal - I believe I need to inspect the check valve. Hopefully the master cylinder isn't bad but that's one item that I will probably replace anyway. I think I'll replace the cracked heads with a new pair - definitely thinking new vs. sourced from a yard or repaired. Will comb through this thread and see what else needs attention.
With just the damn master cylinder and a pair of heads, OEM, that's already 2-3 grand. However much the parts end up being, I'm trying to get another 75k at least out of this thing - hopefully more!
Last edited by truckinn; 09-21-2021 at 08:26 PM.
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