08-10-2018, 12:33 PM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pukapants
In the 2003 4Runner manual it says:
CHASSIS LUBRICATION
Propeller shafts:
Spiders and slide yokes
Lithium base chassis grease, NLGI
No.2
No specific differentiation of two types of grease.
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I just checked my copy of the 2003 factory service manual, and in the chassis maintenance section (page 99-7) it says the following:
Quote:
7. LUBRICATE PROPELLER SHAFT AND TIGHTEN BOLTS
(a) 4WD:Lubricate propeller shaft, referring to the lubrication chart. Before pumping in grease, wipe off any mud
and dust on the grease fitting.
Grease grade:
Spider: Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
Slide yoke and double-cardan joint:
Molybdenum disulphide lithium base chassis grease NLGI No. 2
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So even if the manual that came with the vehicle doesn't mention it, the factory service manual does, in fact, call for two different types of grease.
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06-05-2019, 01:36 PM
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#17
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Great Thread, I was able to successfully grease my whole vehicle, just slathered Crisco all over the entire underside of my 4runner. Goes way faster now!
JK, used Moly-graph lithium grease for the sliders and regular lith for the U Joints.
Total of 6 zerks. pretty straight forward. I pumped grease until clean grease came out of the u joints. 7pumps for the Slider. I'll repost after I drive it for a bit. I did have the notorious clunk so I'm hoping that solves the problem.
Also wondering if there are any other locations on the vehicle that should be greased regularly.
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06-05-2019, 03:18 PM
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#18
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06-10-2019, 01:17 PM
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#19
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Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread but I started noticing a slight nudge like feeling coming from underneath the car when letting go of my brakes at a complete stop. The weird thing is when I have more weight in the car the nudge feeling stops. Could it be my driveshaft?
I have an 07 V8 BTW. I just took my car into Toyota to service and greasing the driveshaft was on their list of to-do for me... I would be pretty upset if they didn't perform this task....
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07-03-2019, 06:03 PM
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#20
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I have an 03 V8 AWD and have been using Valvoline Syn Power Full Synthetic Grease in all locations. I do not off road.
The tube reads:
Moly-fortified to increase strength and protection.
Extreme temp protection -40F to 400F
Drop point 500F minimum
NLGI #2 GC-LB complex Lithium EP Grease
Meets GM 1051344, Mack MG-C, ASTM D-4950
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07-03-2019, 07:21 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss
I have an 03 V8 AWD and have been using Valvoline Syn Power Full Synthetic Grease in all locations. I do not off road.
The tube reads:
Moly-fortified to increase strength and protection.
Extreme temp protection -40F to 400F
Drop point 500F minimum
NLGI #2 GC-LB complex Lithium EP Grease
Meets GM 1051344, Mack MG-C, ASTM D-4950
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I contacted Valvoline.com and had a live chat with Matthew. I told him Toyota grease spec for spiders and for slide-yoke and asked if their Syn Power Full Synthetic grease was ok to use in both locations.
His answer was "yes, it's 1.2% moly and is lithium based. It will not have a negative impact on either."
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07-10-2019, 03:04 AM
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#22
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Location: Woodinville, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backlitcoyote
I'm planning to grease the driveshaft (propeller shaft) of my 2004 4Runner. I read this thread but it's about 3rd-generation 4Runners and my 4th gen vehicle seems different.
I also downloaded the 4th gen service manual from this thread but as far as I can see it does not provide clear information about how to grease the drive shaft and which type of grease to use.
So, here are a couple of photos. My car seems to have only three grease fittings (Zerks), and I've numbered them in the photos.
Attachment 206763
Attachment 206764
It looks to me as if Zerks #1 and #3 are supplying grease to their respective u-joints (cardans), and therefore most likely require regular lithium grease. Whereas the grease that is applied via Zerk #2 is more likely for some type of metal-on-metal application and probably requires lithium grease that contains molybdenum disulphide.
Am I missing any Zerks? I can't see or feel any others. Are my guesses about which grease to use correct?
Finally, does anyone have any experience with renewing the grease? Can I just keep pumping grease in until the grease that is coming out is clean stuff? Or do I risk screwing up seals that way?
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I’ve been reading about the dreaded “clunk” for months on this forum in various threads. Today I had my 4R in for brakes and asked the dealer if they knew about the clunk - nope. So I printed off one of the posts from here and showed it to them - they wanted $150 to grease it. I declined. Then I drove by another mechanic called “Toyota Specialist” and thought for sure they’d have heard about it - nope. So finally I decided to go buy a grease gun and some Lithium/Molly grease and some plain lithium grease and did it myself. I’m not mechanically inclined. I’ve never even changed my own oil. I was pretty concerned that I was gonna somehow screw it up. But I didn’t. In fact, I took it for a test drive and the clunk was gone! YOU people here on this forum inspired me and made me believe I could do it. Hopefully, it lasts. But even if it doesn’t, I know how to fix it again. Now, I’m gonna do my spark plugs cuz that looks easy. I may even try and tackle the “seized front brake caliper” that the dealer told me about today...they wanted $650 to replace both front calipers. I declined again because I know somewhere on this forum is an excellent guide for how to do it myself and save some cash. Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Last edited by JShipps; 07-10-2019 at 06:11 PM.
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07-12-2019, 08:23 AM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
I’ve been reading about the dreaded “clunk” for months on this forum in various threads. Today I had my 4R in for brakes and asked the dealer if they knew about the clunk - nope. So I printed off one of the posts from here and showed it to them - they wanted $150 to grease it. I declined. Then I drove by another mechanic called “Toyota Specialist” and thought for sure they’d have heard about it - nope. So finally I decided to go buy a grease gun and some Lithium/Molly grease and some plain lithium grease and did it myself. I’m not mechanically inclined. I’ve never even changed my own oil. I was pretty concerned that I was gonna somehow screw it up. But I didn’t. In fact, I took it for a test drive and the clunk was gone! YOU people here on this forum inspired me and made me believe I could do it. Hopefully, it lasts. But even if it doesn’t, I know how to fix it again. Now, I’m gonna do my spark plugs cuz that looks easy. I may even try and tackle the “seized front brake caliper” that the dealer told me about today...they wanted $650 to replace both front calipers. I declined again because I know somewhere on this forum is an excellent guide for how to do it myself and save some cash. Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Nice work! There's a lot of value in doing simple routine maintenance and building up confidence to tackle bigger and bigger jobs. This is how many of us got our start, first it was changing a flat tire, then an oil change, and on and on!
I pumped some grease in my driveshafts a few weeks ago while doing an oil change and it helped temporarily but the clunk is back. I think I didn't put enough in at that time (3-6 pumps) so I'm gonna try sending it and pump em till they ooze a little bit. Worst case I'll do the trick to push some grease out backing up a curb should they be too full and cause issues.
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1998 Volvo S70 T5 - Custom Airlift Suspension, BBS Nebula Wheels, Brada Seats, Engine Bolt Ons - StanceWorks Build Thread
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07-16-2019, 04:04 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVC8790
I pumped some grease in my driveshafts a few weeks ago while doing an oil change and it helped temporarily but the clunk is back. I think I didn't put enough in at that time (3-6 pumps) so I'm gonna try sending it and pump em till they ooze a little bit. Worst case I'll do the trick to push some grease out backing up a curb should they be too full and cause issues.
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My clunk was pretty bad. It would occur at almost every stop I came to. So, I assumed my slip yokes were dry as a bone. I counted at least 50 pumps in the slip yoke zerks. Basically, I pumped till I saw the drive shaft expand a little. I never saw any grease come through, just the shaft moving a little. Then I jumped on the back bumper a bunch to try to push the grease through a little. I also made sure to use the grease with lithium & molly in these 2 zerks. Seemed to do the trick!
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07-16-2019, 04:44 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JShipps
My clunk was pretty bad. It would occur at almost every stop I came to. So, I assumed my slip yokes were dry as a bone. I counted at least 50 pumps in the slip yoke zerks. Basically, I pumped till I saw the drive shaft expand a little. I never saw any grease come through, just the shaft moving a little. Then I jumped on the back bumper a bunch to try to push the grease through a little. I also made sure to use the grease with lithium & molly in these 2 zerks. Seemed to do the trick!
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Wow! I guess I really need to cram them full to make a difference! haha
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2004 4Runner V8 Limited - TRD Exhaust, LED Interior Swap, Pioneer HU, Tacoma TRD Front Suspension, FJ Rear Springs, 10" + 32" Light Bars, Prius Shift Knob, 275/65R18 Falken Wildpeak, 18x9 Level 8 MK6 Et0, GOBI Ladder, 06-09 Headlight Swap, TOTALED NOV 2019, RESURRECTED APR 2020 Build Thread
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - Custom Airlift Suspension, BBS Nebula Wheels, Brada Seats, Engine Bolt Ons - StanceWorks Build Thread
2010 Subaru Forester 2.5X - Wifes Car
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08-05-2019, 10:56 AM
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#26
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Thread Update -
I loaded the U joints up just until they started to seep grease (4-7 pumps each) then on the slip yoke put in about 30 pumps. I didn't see grease come out on this one but I know that you don't want to over-do this one.
All clunk is gone, doesn't seem to bind/clunk like it used to at stop lights or when accelerating from a stop, driveline seems much happier and I'm hoping it will yield better driving characteristics and maybe even slightly better mileage (placebo effect?) since everything will be moving more efficiently!
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2004 4Runner V8 Limited - TRD Exhaust, LED Interior Swap, Pioneer HU, Tacoma TRD Front Suspension, FJ Rear Springs, 10" + 32" Light Bars, Prius Shift Knob, 275/65R18 Falken Wildpeak, 18x9 Level 8 MK6 Et0, GOBI Ladder, 06-09 Headlight Swap, TOTALED NOV 2019, RESURRECTED APR 2020 Build Thread
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - Custom Airlift Suspension, BBS Nebula Wheels, Brada Seats, Engine Bolt Ons - StanceWorks Build Thread
2010 Subaru Forester 2.5X - Wifes Car
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08-05-2019, 09:34 PM
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#27
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I've put in over 200K miles between my '03 Tundra and '03 Tacoma using RedLine CV-2 grease on the driveshaft cardans and slip joints. And I'm over 50K on my used '07 4Runner following the same regimen. One grease gun for all 6 zerks, no failed cardan joints.
In terms of compatibility with the existing grease in the cardans, I pump it until fresh red grease is pushing from all 4 bearing caps during each oil change. Wipe away the mess and all done.
I sold the Tundra with 130K miles, the Tacoma with 220K miles (both bought used), still on the factory driveshafts and joints. RedLine CV-2 costs me ~$12 per tube, but it covers all zerks on all my vehicles including my wife's SUV which has fittings on the tie rod ends and front swaybar end links.
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08-25-2019, 06:08 PM
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#28
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Okay just got my 2019 and was wondering if there was anything to lube. Found this thread and now I'm more confused than ever. My old 1992 little 4X4 had a ton of grease fittings and a map on the visor of where they were.
My 2019 manual states Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2 for the spider and the slide yoke states moly OR lithium base chassis grease No.2.
Doesn't this just mean I can use regular lithium base No.2 for both the spider and slide yoke?
Seems like I only need the one and hit em all? Something like Mystik JT-6 High-Temp No.2?
Sorry if this has been beat to death, this is only my second post.
Screen Shot 2019-08-25 at 1.44.06 PM by Michael Starmer, on Flickr
Last edited by Daftjungle03; 08-25-2019 at 07:17 PM.
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10-17-2019, 02:44 PM
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#29
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Maybe the Mystik JT-6 Hi-temp iso220 synthetic?
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11-11-2019, 08:06 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daftjungle03
Okay just got my 2019 and was wondering if there was anything to lube. Found this thread and now I'm more confused than ever. My old 1992 little 4X4 had a ton of grease fittings and a map on the visor of where they were.
My 2019 manual states Lithium base chassis grease NLGI No.2 for the spider and the slide yoke states moly OR lithium base chassis grease No.2.
Doesn't this just mean I can use regular lithium base No.2 for both the spider and slide yoke?
Seems like I only need the one and hit em all? Something like Mystik JT-6 High-Temp No.2?
Sorry if this has been beat to death, this is only my second post.
Screen Shot 2019-08-25 at 1.44.06 PM by Michael Starmer, on Flickr
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My 2019 manual says the same thing!
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